A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which requires a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. Plenty of fixed gear to clip.4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © Rockfax
FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Just Another Dave||20/Sep||Lead O/S||
Ran the two traverse pitches together into one. Fun. Bit of drag! Shame the loose grassy start of the traverse is so rubbish, puts people off; maybe it'd be better done right to left from Sirplum, then finishing up the VS corner of Big Plum. Awesome main section.
|Graeme Hammond||15/Jul||AltLd O/S||
led pitches 1 & 3, did Sirplum finish
Brilliant route. Wanted to do this for ages. Derbyshires Dream of white horses.
|Duncan Campbell||28/Jul/14||AltLd O/S||
Brilliant, the 5a pitches are easier than the 4c ones in my opinion! Such a good laugh these routes, how can the E1s on this buttress not make you smile!?!
|Rachel Slater||28/Jul/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitch 2 and 4. So much fun.
A great adventure with an amazing hanging belay on pitch 3. Led pitches 1 and 3.
1st, 2nd & 4th pitches. Seconding the 3rd pitch was definitely very exciting! Shame about pitch 3 otherwise this would be a three star classic. Only gets two stars in my opinion.
Lead 1st (vs) 2nd and 4th pitch loved it. SO going to do it again! Also I found it better (because of exposure) to do Sir Plum first as that got the freak out, out of the way :)
P 1 and 3
p1 and 3 ,really good worth doing, just shotgun not doing the second pitch!
Lead pitches one and four, Andy ran pitches two and three together which makes a lot of sense and what a lot of other people seem to do. Lots of exposure, none of the climbing to hard, second pitch in the guidebook is pretty chossy but its over pretty quickly, also some lose blocks at the end of the last pitch, abbed off the tree, gave good view of the blocks on the last pitch which just seem to be hanging there...
Second pitch is a bit grassy, but the third is awesome. Better than Sirplum.
Also climbed the summit pinnacle for the traditional 5th pitch. (On 1 hour of sleep and slightly 'under the influence'!) Miquel 's first multipitch route - good effort! A corker of a route, jug fest
|Graham Armitage||31/Aug/10||AltLd O/S||
pitches 2 and 4
Heather, Ian Lovatt
|Nick Taylor||27/Jun/10||AltLd O/S|
Sirion lead P1 & P3, I lead P2 & P4. P2 was pretty poor, vegetaged and rocks are suspect. P3 was superb, P4 was very good -- I wish it would have been longer! Protections were very good throughout.
|Martin Haworth||27/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
Brilliant, especially 3rd pitch. Climbing never hard but a serious undertaking worthy of E1.
|Andrew Sloan||27/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
Very intimidating traversing across above the big overhang.
|craig d||?/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
Great adventurous day out. A fantastic route.
A spectacular route. Emma definitely had the most scary pitch (pitch 2) and then sustained pitch (pitch 4) good job Twyford!
Jaw-droppingly awesome. P4 would have felt massively exposed, if not for the fact that we'd just done P3!
pitch 2 and 4
Pitches 1,3 and 4 are great. Pitch 2 spoils it a bit (loose and overgrown). We descended off to the left into a very large patch of nettles - not pleasant in the dark and with shorts on!!! I climbed pitch 2 and 4.
|Nick Rundall||??/1990||AltLd O/S|
Starting with Sarin. Cant remember who I climbed this with. Limited gear on the initial traverse!