85m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which requires a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. Plenty of fixed gear to clip.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © Rockfax

FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966

Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad.

Hidden 08/Oct AltLd O/S
Just Another Dave 20/Sep Lead O/S

Ran the two traverse pitches together into one. Fun. Bit of drag! Shame the loose grassy start of the traverse is so rubbish, puts people off; maybe it'd be better done right to left from Sirplum, then finishing up the VS corner of Big Plum. Awesome main section.

with Ian Lau
Hidden 20/Sep AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/Jul AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 & 3, did Sirplum finish

with Gavin Singleton
Hidden 15/Jul Lead
Hidden 05/Jul AltLd
BTphonehome 30/May AltLd O/S
with Tony
tmawer 30/May AltLd O/S

An adventure!

with Bram
Phill Mitch 18/Apr AltLd

Brilliant route. Wanted to do this for ages. Derbyshires Dream of white horses.

with bleggs
Duncan Campbell 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant, the 5a pitches are easier than the 4c ones in my opinion! Such a good laugh these routes, how can the E1s on this buttress not make you smile!?!

with Rach
Rachel Slater 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 4. So much fun.

gavinpeach 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

A great adventure with an amazing hanging belay on pitch 3. Led pitches 1 and 3.

with Andy Finney
Hidden 25/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
migs493 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

1st, 2nd & 4th pitches. Seconding the 3rd pitch was definitely very exciting! Shame about pitch 3 otherwise this would be a three star classic. Only gets two stars in my opinion.

with LO
jamesgodwin64 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lead 1st (vs) 2nd and 4th pitch loved it. SO going to do it again! Also I found it better (because of exposure) to do Sir Plum first as that got the freak out, out of the way :)

with Chiris Fox
Brown 29/Jun/13 Lead
with Lilifa
Tamati 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P 1 and 3

Jonathan Hall 09/Sep/12 AltLd
with Will Ward
mark20 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

p1 and 3 ,really good worth doing, just shotgun not doing the second pitch!

with Mark
Hidden ??/2012 -
Brannock 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches one and four, Andy ran pitches two and three together which makes a lot of sense and what a lot of other people seem to do. Lots of exposure, none of the climbing to hard, second pitch in the guidebook is pretty chossy but its over pretty quickly, also some lose blocks at the end of the last pitch, abbed off the tree, gave good view of the blocks on the last pitch which just seem to be hanging there...

Hidden 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
drysori 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Second pitch is a bit grassy, but the third is awesome. Better than Sirplum.

with Jon L
Hidden 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
juza 07/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Garry Cooper
madasten 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Also climbed the summit pinnacle for the traditional 5th pitch. (On 1 hour of sleep and slightly 'under the influence'!) Miquel 's first multipitch route - good effort! A corker of a route, jug fest

with Miquel
rockjedi 04/May/11 AltLd O/S
Graham Armitage 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with john mason
Hidden 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
melonmike 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

pitches 2 and 4

feilx 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Heather, Ian Lovatt
Nick Taylor 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Sirion lead P1 & P3, I lead P2 & P4. P2 was pretty poor, vegetaged and rocks are suspect. P3 was superb, P4 was very good -- I wish it would have been longer! Protections were very good throughout.

with Sirion
tobydunford 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick Sillum
Martin Haworth 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant, especially 3rd pitch. Climbing never hard but a serious undertaking worthy of E1.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Very intimidating traversing across above the big overhang.

craig d ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great adventurous day out. A fantastic route.

with heather swift
mattyork2 30/Jun/09 AltLd

A spectacular route. Emma definitely had the most scary pitch (pitch 2) and then sustained pitch (pitch 4) good job Twyford!

with Emma Twyford
Hidden 01/Jun/09 -
ripper 20/Sep/08 AltLd

Jaw-droppingly awesome. P4 would have felt massively exposed, if not for the fact that we'd just done P3!

with Chris Warby
OffshoreAndy 14/May/08 AltLd O/S

pitch 2 and 4

with UKC Nicos
Nicos 14/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with andrew sutton
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
russonly 26/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3 and 4 are great. Pitch 2 spoils it a bit (loose and overgrown). We descended off to the left into a very large patch of nettles - not pleasant in the dark and with shorts on!!! I climbed pitch 2 and 4.

with AndyN
Ben1983 ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
uphillnow ??/2000 -
Nick Rundall ??/1990 AltLd O/S
Bulls Crack ??/1986 AltLd
with AM
malc 13/Jul/85 AltLd
with JW
Hidden ?/Jul/83 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 AltLd
with Lyn Noble
Falko 11/Jan/75 AltLd O/S
with Al W.
Andy Edgar ??/1975 -
Sean Kelly ??/1974 Lead

Starting with Sarin. Cant remember who I climbed this with. Limited gear on the initial traverse!

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High E2
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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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