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Aplomb*** E1 5a

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[Andy on first pitch of Aplomb., 2 kb]85m, 4 pitches. A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination. 1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay. 2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb. 3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which requires a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. Plenty of fixed gear to clip. 4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966 © ROCKFAX
FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966

Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Andy on first pitch of Aplomb. © russonly
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13

1st, 2nd & 4th pitches. Seconding the 3rd pitch was definitely very exciting! Shame about pitch 3 otherwise this would be a three star classic. Only gets two stars in my opinion.
migs493 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with LO

Lead 1st (vs) 2nd and 4th pitch loved it. SO going to do it again! Also I found it better (because of exposure) to do Sir Plum first as that got the freak out, out of the way :)
jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Chiris Fox

Brown - Lead - 29/Jun/13 with Lily

P 1 and 3
Tamati - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/12

Jonathan Hall - AltLd - 09/Sep/12 with Will Ward

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12

p1 and 3 ,really good worth doing, just shotgun not doing the second pitch!
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Mark

Hidden - 2012

Lead pitches one and four, Andy ran pitches two and three together which makes a lot of sense and what a lot of other people seem to do. Lots of exposure, none of the climbing to hard, second pitch in the guidebook is pretty chossy but its over pretty quickly, also some lose blocks at the end of the last pitch, abbed off the tree, gave good view of the blocks on the last pitch which just seem to be hanging there...
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11

juza - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/11 with Garry Cooper

Also climbed the summit pinnacle for the traditional 5th pitch. (On 1 hour of sleep and slightly 'under the influence'!) Miquel 's first multipitch route - good effort! A corker of a route, jug fest
madasten - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Miquel

rockjedi - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11 with Chris Fox

Graham Armitage - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with john mason

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10

pitches 2 and 4
melonmike - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Jack Metcalfe

feilx - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Heather, Ian Lovatt

Nick Taylor - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Scott Mackenzie

Sirion lead P1 & P3, I lead P2 & P4. P2 was pretty poor, vegetaged and rocks are suspect. P3 was superb, P4 was very good -- I wish it would have been longer! Protections were very good throughout.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Sirion

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Nick Sillum

Brilliant, especially 3rd pitch. Climbing never hard but a serious undertaking worthy of E1.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Andy

Very intimidating traversing across above the big overhang.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09

Great adventurous day out. A fantastic route.
craig d - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with heather swift

A spectacular route. Emma definitely had the most scary pitch (pitch 2) and then sustained pitch (pitch 4) good job Twyford!
mattyork2 - AltLd - 30/Jun/09 with Emma Twyford

wolverine - 01/Jun/09 with Matt Sparkes

Jaw-droppingly awesome. P4 would have felt massively exposed, if not for the fact that we'd just done P3!
ripper - AltLd - 20/Sep/08 with Chris Warby

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/08 with andrew sutton

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Pitches 1,3 and 4 are great. Pitch 2 spoils it a bit (loose and overgrown). We descended off to the left into a very large patch of nettles - not pleasant in the dark and with shorts on!!! I climbed pitch 2 and 4.
russonly - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06 with AndyN

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - May/06

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990

malc - AltLd - 13/Jul/85 with JW

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/83

Ghastly Rubberfeet - AltLd - 1982 with Lyn Noble

Falko - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/75 with Al W.

EagerAndy - 1975

Starting with Sarin. Cant remember who I climbed this with. Limited gear on the initial traverse!
Sean Kelly - Lead - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Graham C, Hidden, migs493, gavinpeach, Hidden, Nick1812P, kayakmonkey, Hoyes, ChrisBrooke, Alkis, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E20 of 15
E20 of 15
easy E20 of 15
hard E10 of 15
E17 of 15
easy E18 of 15
hard HVS0 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b1 of 15
hard 5a1 of 15
5a8 of 15
easy 5a5 of 15
hard 4c0 of 15
4c0 of 15
easy 4c0 of 15
3 Stars12 of 14
2 Stars2 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead7 of 41 (17.1%)
Alt Leads31 of 41 (75.6%)
Unknown3 of 41 (7.3%)

'Climbed'11 of 41 (26.8%)
clean O/S30 of 41 (73.2%)