Aplomb*** E1 5a
[Rick Graham crossing Aplomb on a rare ascent of The Plum Buttress Super Indirect, 2 kb]85m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which requires a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. Plenty of fixed gear to clip.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © ROCKFAX

FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966

Ticklists: Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad.

Photo: Rick Graham crossing Aplomb on a rare ascent of The Plum Buttress Super Indirect © Neil Foster
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 53 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

led pitches 1 & 3, did Sirplum finish
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/15 with Gavin Singleton

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/15

BTphonehome - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15 with Tony

An adventure!
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15 with Bram

Brilliant route. Wanted to do this for ages. Derbyshires Dream of white horses.
Phill Mitch - AltLd - 18/Apr/15 with bleggs

Brilliant, the 5a pitches are easier than the 4c ones in my opinion! Such a good laugh these routes, how can the E1s on this buttress not make you smile!?!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Rach

Lead pitch 2 and 4. So much fun.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Duncan Campbell

A great adventure with an amazing hanging belay on pitch 3. Led pitches 1 and 3.
gavinpeach - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Andy Finney

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13

1st, 2nd & 4th pitches. Seconding the 3rd pitch was definitely very exciting! Shame about pitch 3 otherwise this would be a three star classic. Only gets two stars in my opinion.
migs493 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with LO

Lead 1st (vs) 2nd and 4th pitch loved it. SO going to do it again! Also I found it better (because of exposure) to do Sir Plum first as that got the freak out, out of the way :)
jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Chiris Fox

Brown - Lead - 29/Jun/13 with Lily

P 1 and 3
Tamati - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/12

Jonathan Hall - AltLd - 09/Sep/12 with Will Ward

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12

p1 and 3 ,really good worth doing, just shotgun not doing the second pitch!
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Mark

Hidden - 2012

Lead pitches one and four, Andy ran pitches two and three together which makes a lot of sense and what a lot of other people seem to do. Lots of exposure, none of the climbing to hard, second pitch in the guidebook is pretty chossy but its over pretty quickly, also some lose blocks at the end of the last pitch, abbed off the tree, gave good view of the blocks on the last pitch which just seem to be hanging there...
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11

Second pitch is a bit grassy, but the third is awesome. Better than Sirplum.
drysori - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Jon L

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11

juza - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/11 with Garry Cooper

Also climbed the summit pinnacle for the traditional 5th pitch. (On 1 hour of sleep and slightly 'under the influence'!) Miquel 's first multipitch route - good effort! A corker of a route, jug fest
madasten - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Miquel

rockjedi - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11 with Chris Fox

Graham Armitage - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with john mason

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10

pitches 2 and 4
melonmike - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Jack Metcalfe

feilx - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Heather, Ian Lovatt

Nick Taylor - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Scott Mackenzie

Sirion lead P1 & P3, I lead P2 & P4. P2 was pretty poor, vegetaged and rocks are suspect. P3 was superb, P4 was very good -- I wish it would have been longer! Protections were very good throughout.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Sirion

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Nick Sillum

Brilliant, especially 3rd pitch. Climbing never hard but a serious undertaking worthy of E1.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Andy

Very intimidating traversing across above the big overhang.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09

Great adventurous day out. A fantastic route.
craig d - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with heather swift

A spectacular route. Emma definitely had the most scary pitch (pitch 2) and then sustained pitch (pitch 4) good job Twyford!
mattyork2 - AltLd - 30/Jun/09 with Emma Twyford

Hidden - 01/Jun/09

Jaw-droppingly awesome. P4 would have felt massively exposed, if not for the fact that we'd just done P3!
ripper - AltLd - 20/Sep/08 with Chris Warby

pitch 2 and 4
OffshoreAndy - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08 with UKC Nicos

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/08 with andrew sutton

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Pitches 1,3 and 4 are great. Pitch 2 spoils it a bit (loose and overgrown). We descended off to the left into a very large patch of nettles - not pleasant in the dark and with shorts on!!! I climbed pitch 2 and 4.
russonly - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06 with AndyN

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - May/06

uphillnow - 2000

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990

Bulls Crack - AltLd - 1986 with AM

malc - AltLd - 13/Jul/85 with JW

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/83

Ghastly Rubberfeet - AltLd - 1982 with Lyn Noble

Falko - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/75 with Al W.

Andy Edgar - 1975

Starting with Sarin. Cant remember who I climbed this with. Limited gear on the initial traverse!
Sean Kelly - Lead - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ReubenS1990, AsleepOnBelay, Jmpollard, darrenpp, Bernie L, Phoebus, Leo Woodhead, Graham C, migs493, Nick1812P, kayakmonkey, Hoyes, ChrisBrooke, Alkis, aretherenoneleft, iceaxejuggler, Dan Lane, PanzerHanzler

Total votes cast 55
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E19 of 19
easy E110 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b1 of 18
hard 5a1 of 18
5a9 of 18
easy 5a7 of 18
hard 4c0 of 18
4c0 of 18
easy 4c0 of 18
3 Stars15 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S