Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in trad limestone climbing. A serious start and long moves between distant gear put this at the upper limit of the grade. Start below the rather high first bolt. Good luck. The route had a controversial history but hopefully now it will remain in its 2 pegs, 2 bolts state. To do a 7c sport route, pre-clip the first bolt above the initial run-out then those climbers who want to attempt a classic E6 still can. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Aug Lead RP

Amazing route, fingers and sustained. Had the first bolt clipped but have onsighted to here before. 7c+

with Louis
Gus 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

Spicy scenes! Tough, defo 7c+ with some sketchy run outs, especially the last one above the peg on some loose/dirty holds, if that blows you're going miles! Psyched to go back in cooler connies!

with guy van greuning, sam whittaker
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead dog
WuDavid ??/2000 -
Cowflinger ?/Sep/94 TR RP
sharpie ?/Sep/94 Lead RP
with CE
Mike Owen 10/Jul/91 Lead RP

After work.

with Andy Popp
stp 28/May/88 Lead RP

Done when fully bolted and perhaps the Peak's finest 7c. A lot bloody harder than Body Machine. Completed on day 3.

Bruce Kerr 15/Jul/87 2nd

An early repeat by Colin after a crucial hold had snapped off.

with Colin Gilchrist
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Reedymc, Hidden, Hidden, Milnes, Rocktart, Hidden
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set