Mortlock's Arete*** E4 6a
[Andy Taylor Leading Mortocks Arete, Chee Tor. E4 6b., 3 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Quite simply, done in its entirety, this is one of the best E4s on limestone in the country.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge.
2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength. © ROCKFAX

FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble, P.Hutchinson (aid) 11.62. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2. FFA. T.Proctor, G.Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. Nov/1962

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Photo: Andy Taylor Leading Mortocks Arete, Chee Tor. E4 6b. © ajtay
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This climb is in 78 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Lead both pitches - did it as one. Great route. Is a bit dirty at the moment though.
miastacey - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/15 with Bob Smith

Awesome, a very satisfying route with a lot of good, hard climbing. Good lead by Dad to do the very dusty top pitch.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15

Onsighted to the last move and then came off a dirty hold. Heartbreaking
oread - Lead dog - 18/Jul/15

Feels tough for E4.
dominic lee - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/15 with Sam Hamer

Led both pitches. Found the first pitch steady, there's a no hands rest on a knee bar going up the big flake. Second pitch was tough, dirty and sweaty in the sun. Gave it a good clean on the way down. Top route.
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/15 with Mark Stevenson

Route was filthy so rapped route to give a clean before hand. Not the best e4 in the country by a long way
markalmack - Lead β - 06/Jun/15 with will

Eventually! Took 5 or 6 goes to get more than 4 meters off the ground.
WB - Lead RP - 06/Jun/15 with Mark

yoyo 2falls. one after 1st runner, one after last!
Hannes B - Lead dog - 17/Sep/14 with Rik

Hannes B - Lead rpt - 17/Sep/14 with Rik

Almost a month since I tried this the first time during which I thought no way would I get back on it this summer. But I hate unfinished business and it actually went down without too much of a fight today!
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 04/Aug/14 with Justin Timms

Justin T - 2nd - 04/Aug/14 with Rachel

Apparently I've done this before but I remember nothing about it so I'm claiming the onsight again. Lead both pitches in one. Ace climbing but very sweaty in the 25 degree heat today.
JulesV - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Shauna

Lead pitch 1, failed on first crux, felt pretty psyched out but came down and tried to do it ground up. Made it through the first crux but had a rest in the middle and at the final top crack moves. Felt really hard! Seconded pitch 2 cleanly but that felt even harder and the peg looked really dodgy. Think I would have enjoyed it all a lot more if it had been a little cleaner! Oh well, an interesting ordeal.
Rachel Slater - AltLd dog - 08/Jul/14 with Tim Newton

Lead P2. Pitch 1 is hard, but pitch 2 felt harder and more serious despite guidebook claims. The 2nd, important peg on pitch 2 is half out and not at all inspiring. I do love a good sandbag.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/14 with rachel slater

Holy-maloley this was hard! Bottom pitch only and had to pull on the stuck wire to do the crux, and dogged the rest. Hardest E4 I have done. Finished by headtorch, grey smears on grey mud covered limestone making the top section harder than needed.
philhilo - 2nd dnf - 04/May/14 with misha

Absolutely nails, as evidenced by the ceaseless stream of swearing that I came out with! Hard 5c (may be even 6a) off the deck to the crux bulge, gear so-so but at least at this point you aren't knackered and the stuck wire beckons (actually it wouldn't be too hard to place gear there as there is a non-rest just below the bulge; backed it up with a micro cam). Hung around for a while trying to figure out the bulge, then went for it and was going well but couldn't transfer into the flake and fell off doing a desperate lunge, resulting in a decent fall. Fluffed it second go as well - the problem is there are no decent footholds. Got established on the flake third go and was glad of the tat and peg (though both are past their best). The transfer left to the tax was well hard as well! There is a bit of a rest just above on a juggy hold, then sustained 5b/c up the groove, which feels pretty tough after what has gone on before... This is followed by a technical and tenuous 6a sequence right at the top of the difficulties. Got the sequence right and got to the finishing flatties but couldn't pull up or find a jug so took another sizeable fall, followed by another one. Got it third go - turned out there was a jug after all, obscured by a bit of vegetation. Annoying I didn't get this top bit clean. Didn't have the time or the energy for P2. Definitely one to come back to - especially when it's cleaner. There's a lot less crap on it now as most of it ended up on my trousers! Phil finished by headtorch at 9.20pm. A good day!
Misha - Lead dog - 04/May/14 with Phil

Hidden - 2014

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

drcorbasisgod - 2nd dog - May/12 with Marc Weisner

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

P1 only, P2 was covered in a lunar quantity of dust
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2012 with Tim Hill

both pitches in a oner.
dav - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Gill B

Brown - AltLd - 01/Jun/11 with James T

GeoffG - 2011

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2011 with dave brown

thought the start was a little bold (no stuck wires), with hard moves (crux?) to get to the flakes. Sting in the tail at the top! P1 only.
Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko, Sam Dixon

Pitch 1. Foot slipped on last move before easy ground, fell halfway down the pitch, got straight back on and finished it. I'm gutted as I'd been saving this one.
Tony Little - Lead dog - 22/Jun/10 with Dan

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2010

First pitch only
Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Dave Parton

1st pitch only, moist start felt scary, then physical/ hard work to the top tricky move. You really earn every metre of this one! Pure Quality.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Noaksy, Billy Laurence, Steve Ramsden

1st pitch only. After al but placing own gear. Should go back and do second pitch when not raining.
Ram MkiV - Lead β - 30/Aug/09 with Bill, noaks, Al

Cleaned Tequila
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Ed Brown

Boy - 2008

robyn1 - 2008

Toby Dunn - 2007

Boy - 2006

I led top pitch.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd - 2005 with Crispin Waddy

Hidden - 2003

led top pitch
switch - AltLd O/S - 1998

phardman - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 02/Sep/96 with Pete Benson

sadams - AltLd - 16/Jul/96 with Hugh Cottom

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/96 with Steven Delderfield

robtrooper - Lead O/S - 1996

Billg - Lead O/S - 1995

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Sep/94 with Andy Sharp

jamiev - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/94 with Adrian Berry

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/94 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/94 with jon

uphillnow - 2nd - 1994 with Graeme Smith

Hidden - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/93

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/92 with Paul Tanton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/90

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/90

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990 with Dave Ramsey

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

one runout
shark - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/89

All in one pitch
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/88

Hidden - Lead - 03/Oct/87

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Jul/87 with Simon Cox

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/May/87 with Dave Gregory

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

shark - Lead - 03/Oct/86 with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo

keefe - 27/Jun/86 with Johnny Adams

neilh - 2nd - 04/May/85 with simon webster

Mike Owen - 06/Sep/84 with Mike Collins, Tom Jones

Ian Jones - Lead rpt - 1983 with Robert Kieske ('Flog')

steve L - Lead O/S - 30/May/82 with Alun Richardson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 03/Apr/82 with Paul Clark

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981 with Phil Burke

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, theomoore, LJC, Chris_barr, greenclimb, Dan Lane, Stig, datoon

Total votes cast 75
hard E50 of 26
E50 of 26
easy E53 of 26
hard E417 of 26
E46 of 26
easy E40 of 26
hard E30 of 26
E30 of 26
easy E30 of 26
hard 6b0 of 26
6b0 of 26
easy 6b6 of 26
hard 6a15 of 26
6a5 of 26
easy 6a0 of 26
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
3 Stars23 of 23
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