Derbyshire > Chee Dale Lower >
 
Mortlock's Arete*** E4 6a

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[Andy Taylor Leading Mortocks Arete, Chee Tor. E4 6b., 3 kb]2 pitches. Quite simply, done in its entirety, this is one of the best E4s on limestone in the country. 1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge. 2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength. © ROCKFAX
FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble, P.Hutchinson (aid) 11.62. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2. FFA. T.Proctor, G.Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. Nov/1962

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Andy Taylor Leading Mortocks Arete, Chee Tor. E4 6b. © ajtay
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

drcorbasisgod - 2nd dog - May/12 with Marc Weisner

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

both pitches in a oner.
dav - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Gill B

Brown - AltLd - 01/Jun/11 with James T

GeoffG - 2011

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2011 with dave brown

thought the start was a little bold (no stuck wires), with hard moves (crux?) to get to the flakes. Sting in the tail at the top! P1 only.
Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko, Sam Dixon

Pitch 1. Foot slipped on last move before easy ground, fell halfway down the pitch, got straight back on and finished it. I'm gutted as I'd been saving this one.
Tony Little - Lead dog - 22/Jun/10 with Dan

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

1st pitch only, moist start felt scary, then physical/ hard work to the top tricky move. You really earn every metre of this one! Pure Quality.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Noaksy, Billy Laurence, Steve Ramsden

1st pitch only. After al but placing own gear. Should go back and do second pitch when not raining.
Ram MkiV - Lead β - 30/Aug/09 with Bill, noaks, Al

Cleaned Tequila
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Ed Brown

Boy - 2008

robyn1 - 2008

Ian Jones - 2007

Toby Dunn - 2007

Boy - 2006

I led top pitch.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd - 2005 with Crispin Waddy

Hidden - 2003

led top pitch
switch - AltLd O/S - 1998

phardman - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 02/Sep/96 with Pete Benson

sadams - AltLd - 16/Jul/96 with Hugh Cottom

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/96 with Steven Delderfield

Billg - Lead O/S - 1995

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Sep/94 with Andy Sharp

jamiev - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/94 with Adrian Berry

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/94 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/94 with jon

David Smith - 2nd - 1994 with Graeme Smith

Hidden - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/93

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/92 with Paul Tanton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/90

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/90

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990 with Dave Ramsey

one runout
shark - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/89

All in one pitch
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/88

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Jul/87 with Simon Cox

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/May/87 with Dave Gregory

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

shark - Lead - 03/Oct/86 with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo

keefe - 27/Jun/86 with Johnny Adams

neilh - 2nd - 04/May/85 with simon webster

Mike Owen - 06/Sep/84 with Mike Collins, Tom Jones

Ian Jones - 1983 with Robert Kieske ('Flog')

Mark Kemball - Lead - 03/Apr/82 with Paul Clark

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981 with Phil Burke

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Chris_barr, GuyVG, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, greenclimb, Dan Lane, Stig, Hidden, datoon

Voting
Total votes cast 59
hard E50 of 21
E50 of 21
easy E51 of 21
hard E415 of 21
E45 of 21
easy E40 of 21
hard E30 of 21
E30 of 21
easy E30 of 21
hard 6b0 of 20
6b0 of 20
easy 6b4 of 20
hard 6a12 of 20
6a4 of 20
easy 6a0 of 20
hard 5c0 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c0 of 20
3 Stars18 of 18
2 Stars0 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead24 of 57 (42.1%)
Followed7 of 57 (12.3%)
Alt Leads10 of 57 (17.5%)
Unknown16 of 57 (28.1%)

'Climbed'33 of 57 (57.9%)
clean O/S18 of 57 (31.6%)
clean β1 of 57 (1.8%)
clean rpt1 of 57 (1.8%)
dogged4 of 57 (7.0%)