2 pitches. Ultra steep route on big tufas and pockets leading to a crux section and tricky finish. The corner groove at the start has now been bolted. If you lead the route from the ground (rather than belaying from the pillar) the rope runs easily if you don't clip the pedestal bolt, but drags over edges if you do. You can climb up, clip the first roof bolt, then come down and remove it.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s.

Hidden 20/Sep Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep Lead dog
Hidden 01/Aug Lead dnf
SDM 01/Aug Lead dog
with Michael
afrosam 25/Jul Lead RP

Awesome route, took a few more attempts than I would have liked. Whippers galore!

joshdownham23 20/Jul Lead dog

First proper session got all the moves without to much trouble!!!

afrosam 19/Jul Lead dog
chakrit 18/Jul Lead RP

Great moves

grey wolf 16/Jul Lead β

placing draws, great route with some pretty blind moves.

dan gibson 09/Jul Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Tomas P 05/Jul Lead dog

Really good! Worked most of the moves today, just need to link it all together next session.

with Tom
lukehodson 30/Jun Lead RP

Have had a couple of dabbles before, first proper go at it this evening, sent 1st RP. Skipped the penultimate clip for added excitement. What an amazing route, love the finishing sequence.

with Gary Ryan
quiffhanger 25/Apr Lead RP

1st RP. Was a bit worried about the bolts so put in a mega-extender from the route on the left. Probably the best route at the crag, shame it's not longer.

with Rachel
Billg 19/Apr Lead RP
with Nik Goile
Tommyads ??/2015 -
hankyc 15/Sep/14 Lead RP

first redpoint today, nailed it! first 7c and super psyched!!

jammy4536 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
hankyc 29/Jul/14 Lead dog

total awesomeness, what a stunner, can't wait to get back on and bag it!

Tomar 02/Jul/14 Lead RP

Awesome evening sent. Proper route! Skipping the penultimate clip makes it even better. Shame it's actually quite short.

with Charles
Nick Russell 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

First 7c! Excellent steep climbing with a tricky crux.

Nick Russell 06/Jun/14 Lead dog

Did all the moves today, found a helpful knee-bar. Start linking next time.

ollie_e 31/May/14 Lead RP

One of the best routes anywhere. Appalling conditions today though, shocked to find myself at the top! 4RP overall I think.

Tomar 31/May/14 Lead dog

4 good attempts, pretty close but all ending with an epic fall at the final roof. I'll be back, don't you worry!

Hidden 19/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead dog
Nick Russell 14/May/14 Lead dog

Short on time last thing of the day, just went up to feel the holds. New project!

holister 04/Sep/13 Lead RP

Best route ever

with lee
Bates 04/Sep/13 Lead RP

Amazing. Such a fantastic route.

MorganPreece 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Not even warmed up, draws in on the lead, totally onsight. had to chill at the top for 10mins to let the arms de pump! AMAZING

with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith
Garrouli 25/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd red point. Best route in the wye valley!

with Mark
3 Names 20/Jul/13 Lead RP

1st redpoint

ollie_e 18/Jul/13 Lead dog

One of the best I have ever tried, will be back soon for this.

3 Names 18/Jul/13 Lead dog
chrisscutt 17/Jul/13 Lead RP

one of the best climbs I've done

with oly
Mike Goldthorp 03/Jun/13 Lead β

Yay ho! Ridiculously good route! So godamn STEEP!

Bates 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Chris hollister, chrisscutt
SamStokes 07/Apr/13 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
AJM 16/Sep/12 Lead RP

Jug pulling, clip skipping, roof burling fun! Excellent fun! 2nd session, 3rd redpoint.

with Joe Innes, Ross A
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead dnf
_m.cox_ 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
westyb3 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

dropped the move to the jug. got it 2nd go. good route shame about the crag

with Tom Harrison
Dan Jenkin 08/Aug/11 Lead β

no doubt the best route at ban-y-gor for quality rock & moves

with Richard Hall, James Marshall
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/11 TR
BenNorman 21/Jun/11 Lead RP

Felt pretty solid this time although fell off the last fridge hugging moves on 1st go, great route!

Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
Billg 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

found a sneaky knee bar which made it quite a bit easier - but i'm not saying where !!

Hidden 16/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead dog
IceMonkey1982 09/Aug/09 -
Billg 13/Apr/09 Lead RP

Superb route. 1st 7c in an evening, but with loads of beta on the sequence

with James Kauntze
Cowflinger ?/Mar/93 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
max_dickens, Hidden, Tomas Frost, joshdownham23, tommccluskey, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, whenry, Aaron.Clifford, Dean177, cha1n, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, Hidden, SamStokes, Hidden, Perryman, Hidden, Hidden
High 7c+
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High 7c
Mid 7c
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High 7b+
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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set