2 pitches. Ultra steep route on big tufas and pockets leading to a crux section and tricky finish. The corner groove at the start has now been bolted. If you lead the route from the ground (rather than belaying from the pillar) the rope runs easily if you don't clip the pedestal bolt, but drags over edges if you do. You can climb up, clip the first roof bolt, then come down and remove it.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, Rock cats getting strong.


ClimberDateStyle
Wendy 23/Oct Lead RP
with Chris H, Ali
Hidden 22/Oct Lead β
Stuart William 22/Oct Lead RP

Plan was to warm up dogging it, somehow ended up getting the redpoint. Was expecting it to put up more of a fight. 4 go overall I think.

mikedevcole 22/Oct Lead dog
Stuart William 09/Oct Lead dog

3 goes, feels pretty soft and should go next time. Silly foot slip before the lip. Super moves but a shame its not longer.

Finley1234 09/Oct Lead dog

blew the beta onsight by having one fall

DaveFidler 02/Oct Lead RP

1 RP. Absolute banger!

with Lorenzo
Granitemuncher 18/Sep Lead RP

Jug Fest! soft for 7c, just find a sequence that works for you, no need for a dyno at the crux if you pinch right below the horizontal Jug. Nice moves and exposed.

with Matt Johnson
MathewWright1998 12/Sep Lead rpt

Training.

with Bill Gregory
Billg 11/Sep Lead rpt
with Matt Wright
Carl Watkins 08/Sep Lead dog
with jasper
Carl Watkins 29/Aug Lead dog

Great route with some big falls missing the jug after the crux. Went well should go soon

with del
Hidden 27/Aug Lead RP
Tom92 17/Aug Lead RP

2nd RP. Absolutely ace!

simonpearson 14/Aug Lead RP

Quality

with Ash
PeteDP 12/Aug Lead dnf
Tom Pillow 08/Aug Lead RP

Yay! never expected to get up this when I first saw it. bloody awesome route done 6th go! first 7c, skipped a grade. Didn't power scream once!

with josh
TomJ 07/Aug Lead dog
with Si P
joshdownham23 06/Aug Lead rpt
with Leigh
DorsetGareth 10/Jul Lead RP

In one session, nice climbing. I didn't skip the clip, but can see it would be sensible to do so.

Wise 10/Jul Lead RP

3rd go and first 7c in a session. Quality route and not as hard as it looks once you've got the sequence. Thanks to Gareth for some timely beta at the top.

with Gareth
MathewWright1998 09/Jul Lead RP

First redpoint today - It was so inspiring to see Rich onsight this bad boy, well done mate!

Ricky Rocks 09/Jul Lead O/S

Simply Awesome. Fantastic moves and the best line going. Think my power screams were heard in Chepstow!!

guy xavier percival 08/Jul Lead RP

The best route at Ban-y-Gor and one of the finest 7c's in the region. Skipped the clip, 2nd RP

with rob
Hidden 06/Jul Lead RP
Tomas P 03/Jul Lead RP

Awesome route. Skipping the crux clip is rather exciting!

with Mat
Chris Redding 30/Jun Lead dog

Being the hardest route I have tried can barely comment... but wicked moves on better than expected holds. linked to the crux 1st try then from the crux to the last clip jug. Definitely a project for the future

tommccluskey 30/Jun Lead RP
Tom Pillow 27/Jun Lead dog

first goes on it. Did all the moves and found a heal toe cam for the tricky ending. Early days but might go if i keep it as a super project.

with josh
joshdownham23 27/Jun Lead RP

At last ... After a tiny beta change on the top move it all felt easy and climbed it first go of the day while putting the clips in ... My first 7c and almost certainly the best route I've ever climbed!

with Pillow
joshdownham23 24/Jun Lead dog

Still fell off on the same move!

with Tom, Alex
joshdownham23 22/Jun Lead dog

I think I've got a bit of a mental block on this route after cleaning through the crux 5 times in a row only to fall off trying to get over the lip! GUTTED

with Alex
Billg 12/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun Lead RP
Bristoldave 26/May Lead RP

3rd RP

Bristoldave 24/May Lead dog
Andy Smallwood 17/May Lead dnf
Hidden 15/May Lead
joshdownham23 15/May Lead dog

First session back on it in 9 months ... Feels easier than last year, but still couldn't get the tick!

with Henry
Luuuuuke 08/May Lead RP
with Si
peaches69 08/May Lead RP

Quality climb, 1st redpoint. Should have flashed

with luke
Dean177 06/May Lead dog

I reckon it will go next time.

Billg 06/May Lead rpt

retro flash. Will and I have replaced the old bolts with stainless staples.

with Will Calvert
W d c ?/May Lead

Knee bar of justice. 4 sessions.

with BILL G
Andy Smallwood 29/Apr Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead dog
joshdownham23 ?/Sep/15 Lead dog

Fell off the last hard move getting my foot up at the top ... Soooo gutted

Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead dnf
SDM 01/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Michael
afrosam 25/Jul/15 Lead RP

Awesome route, took a few more attempts than I would have liked. Whippers galore!

joshdownham23 20/Jul/15 Lead dog

First proper session got all the moves without to much trouble!!!

afrosam 19/Jul/15 Lead dog
chakrit 18/Jul/15 Lead RP

Great moves

grey wolf 16/Jul/15 Lead β

placing draws, great route with some pretty blind moves.

dan gibson 09/Jul/15 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Kev Little ?/Jul/15 Lead RP
lukehodson 30/Jun/15 Lead RP

Have had a couple of dabbles before, first proper go at it this evening, sent 1st RP. Skipped the penultimate clip for added excitement. What an amazing route, love the finishing sequence.

with Gary Ryan
quiffhanger 25/Apr/15 Lead RP

1st RP. Was a bit worried about the bolts so put in a mega-extender from the route on the left. Probably the best route at the crag, shame it's not longer.

with Rachel
Billg 19/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Nik Goile
Tommyads ??/2015 -
hankyc 15/Sep/14 Lead RP

first redpoint today, nailed it! first 7c and super psyched!!

jammy4536 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
hankyc 29/Jul/14 Lead dog

total awesomeness, what a stunner, can't wait to get back on and bag it!

Tomar 02/Jul/14 Lead RP

Awesome evening sent. Proper route! Skipping the penultimate clip makes it even better. Shame it's actually quite short.

with Charles
Nick Russell 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

First 7c! Excellent steep climbing with a tricky crux.

Nick Russell 06/Jun/14 Lead dog

Did all the moves today, found a helpful knee-bar. Start linking next time.

ollie_e 31/May/14 Lead RP

One of the best routes anywhere. Appalling conditions today though, shocked to find myself at the top! 4RP overall I think.

Tomar 31/May/14 Lead dog

4 good attempts, pretty close but all ending with an epic fall at the final roof. I'll be back, don't you worry!

Hidden 19/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead dog
Nick Russell 14/May/14 Lead dog

Short on time last thing of the day, just went up to feel the holds. New project!

holister 04/Sep/13 Lead RP

Best route ever

with lee
Bates 04/Sep/13 Lead RP

Amazing. Such a fantastic route.

MorganPreece 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Not even warmed up, draws in on the lead, totally onsight. had to chill at the top for 10mins to let the arms de pump! AMAZING

with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith
Garrouli 25/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd red point. Best route in the wye valley!

with Mark
3 Names 20/Jul/13 Lead RP

1st redpoint

ollie_e 18/Jul/13 Lead dog

One of the best I have ever tried, will be back soon for this.

3 Names 18/Jul/13 Lead dog
chrisscutt 17/Jul/13 Lead RP

one of the best climbs I've done

with oly
Mike Goldthorp 03/Jun/13 Lead β

Yay ho! Ridiculously good route! So godamn STEEP!

Bates 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Chris hollister, chrisscutt
SamStokes 07/Apr/13 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
AJM 16/Sep/12 Lead RP

Jug pulling, clip skipping, roof burling fun! Excellent fun! 2nd session, 3rd redpoint.

with Joe Innes, Ross A
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead dnf
_m.cox_ 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
westyb3 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

dropped the move to the jug. got it 2nd go. good route shame about the crag

with Tom Harrison
Dan Jenkin 08/Aug/11 Lead β

no doubt the best route at ban-y-gor for quality rock & moves

with Richard Hall, James Marshall
James Marshall 03/Aug/11 Lead RP

One of the best routes i've done.

with ollie
Hidden ?/Aug/11 TR
BenNorman 21/Jun/11 Lead RP

Felt pretty solid this time although fell off the last fridge hugging moves on 1st go, great route!

Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
Billg 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

found a sneaky knee bar which made it quite a bit easier - but i'm not saying where !!

Hidden 16/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead dog
IceMonkey1982 09/Aug/09 -
Billg 13/Apr/09 Lead RP

Superb route. 1st 7c in an evening, but with loads of beta on the sequence

with James Kauntze
Cowflinger ?/Mar/93 Lead RP
31 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set