Gwynedd > Clogwyn y Ddysgl >
 
The Black Gates* VD

Adjacent Climbs
<< Route of Knobs
 
Genesis >>
67m, 5 pitches. A great and often forgotten route that takes in some superb settings with some strenuous climbing. Start 15m right of the fallen block at a faint groove, down and right of the pinnacles. 1) 10m. Climb the groove for 10m to reach a stance below large boulders. 2) 35m. Surmount the boulders to gain a niche below a towering pinnacle. Struggle out of the niche and follow a crack to the top of the pinnacle on the left. Continue for 5m, then belay. 3) 12m. Follow the corner for 3m and make a breath-taking step round the corner to reach a ledge on the left. Climb the wall, pass a ledge and continue to a second ledge to belay. 4) 10m. Move to the left edge of the ledge and climb the chimney for 6m. Head right and up for 10m over easy ground to reach another chimney. 5) 20m. Climb the traditional chimney, complete with chockstone, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the slab via the corner crack at the left end. © ROCKFAX
"Start 50 feet right of Fallen Block Crack at a shallow groove in a steep wall" - Llanberis Pass (1994), Climbers Club.
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

A good strenuous climb up 2 chimneys, thouroughly rewarding but with a pretty long & tricky descent. Andy, with all his experience, thought it was under-graded.
Neil Metcalfe101 - 2nd - Aug/06 with Andy Chapman & Helen.

fifth - 2005

Pitch 1 : Me Pitch 2 : Me Pitch 3 : John Pitch 4 : John Pitch 5 : Me
slacky - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/03 with John Thompson

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/85 with Angel Vila

Sean Kelly - May/85 with Bob Anderson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 1
hard HVD0 of 1
HVD0 of 1
easy HVD1 of 1
hard VD0 of 1
VD0 of 1
easy VD0 of 1
hard HD0 of 1
HD0 of 1
easy HD0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 0
2 Stars0 of 0
1 Star0 of 0
0 Stars0 of 0
Bag of .....0 of 0
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.