Restricted Access
Big committing routes with some complex approaches.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal restriction to protect nesting birds affecting all routes west of Flimstone Ridge, the Cauldron Area and extending west to Stack Rocks.
51m, 3 pitches.
No description has been contributed for this climb.
FA. J.Perrin, R.Swinden 24/Aug/1981.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ariegeois | 24 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: It's a pity that the easy groove up which this great, ultra-atmospheric climb used to start has fallen down, but it would clean up, and the meat of the route was always the top two pitches, which are still there. Try abseiling in to the wildly committing start to pitch 2 - there's a niche, a couple of good belay nuts in the sound left wall before you move round on to the shadowy green face of the great cleft, and then away you go - essentially a 40/50ft hand traverse with minimal gear on creaking flakes in one of the ultimate Pembroke situations. It's a bit like a hyper-version, a few grades harder, of Heart of Darkness, and it's not for chickens - once you go, you're away and on your arms till you reach the cave stance. Perrin & Swinden did this in front of a huge audience of the activists of the day at August Bank Holiday 1981 and it's fair to say that everyone watching where the route went was impressed. The top crack, which Dicky led, is meaty, too! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: It's a pity that the easy groove up which this great, ultra-atmospheric climb used to start has fallen down, but it would clean up, and the meat of the route was always the top two pitches, which are still there. Try abseiling in to the wildly committing start to pitch 2 - there's a niche, a couple of good belay nuts in the sound left wall before you move round on to the shadowy green face of the great cleft, and then away you go - essentially a 40/50ft hand traverse with minimal gear on creaking flakes in one of the ultimate Pembroke situations. It's a bit like a hyper-version, a few grades harder, of Heart of Darkness, and it's not for chickens - once you go, you're away and on your arms till you reach the cave stance. Perrin & Swinden did this in front of a huge audience of the activists of the day at August Bank Holiday 1981 and it's fair to say that everyone watching where the route went was impressed. The top crack, which Dicky led, is meaty, too! |
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Route of Interest
Amazon
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lydstep Point Area)