Rockfax Description
This product of an earlier age now appears to have an odd line, though there is a logic to it; worth doing. The lower wall is sustained to a semi-rest at a junction with Big Zipper, finish up this. The original finish traversed right and dropped down to what is now Ouijaboard. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Pretty 1986

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead RP
James Oswald 09/Sep/15 Lead RP

3rd session after falling off it with cold hands on the 2nd. Ace route, really hard crux.

with Nick Duboust
Ash Sayers ?/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead RP
mic_b 21/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 19/Aug/15 Lead
Jake Young 06/Aug/15 Lead RP

tick :D

benkelsey 05/Aug/15 Lead RP

First RP with new (sensible) beta through crux, felt steady. thanks Jamie!

with Shaun Humphreys
Dave Bond 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with mike
Jack Delaney 03/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Alice Walton, FreddieSmith
JamieSparkes 30/Jul/15 Lead RP

Felt fine today, 2 very distinct sequences at the crux, left is much easier with fewer moves, but right to the pinch is more obvious from the floor. Don't think the crux on this is as hard as the first overlap on clarion call, but the top is quite sustained. 7b?

jamesgodwin64 30/Jul/15 Lead RP
with John Cooper
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead RP
JamieSparkes 28/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Came off last move first go, gutting. Off on traverse after that.

benkelsey 24/Jul/15 Lead dog

Can't do the middle move, not sure how the top would go either, as it feels hard enough after the easier first section of the big zipper.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 24/Jul/15 Lead RP

3rd go! have tried big zipper before!

benkelsey 22/Jul/15 Lead dog

50 50 catching a throw move in the middle, but should go clean if enough in the tank for the big zipper finish.

amccann 22/Jul/15 Lead RP

Pretty happy to get this in one session.

Luke Dawson 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 19/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Climbed to the roof crux and felt fresh but still dropped the move . Should go next time

with jon lawson
quiffhanger 19/Jul/15 Lead RP

Great route. Fell off the very last move due to useless use of feet on the flash attempt the day before.

with Johaness, Rachel
drcorbasisgod 08/Jul/15 Lead RP
Dave Mayes 04/Jul/15 Lead RP

1st RP.

with Emily
willsm11 30/Jun/15 Lead RP
stp ??/2015 -
Nick Sillem ??/2015 Lead RP
Tophe 17/Oct/14 Lead β
with Dan
dannyboy83 17/Oct/14 Lead RP
TonyB 13/Sep/14 Lead RP

At last, after having fallen off the last moves of this several times.

with jody
TobyA 30/Aug/14 TR dnf

Just finding out what 7b+ feels like between T's redpoint attempts. Didn't get far but great moves.

with Tony B
Stig 15/Aug/14 Lead RP

First go with clips in. Quality.

with Ethan
Stig 09/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Greg
Charlie Noakes 07/Aug/14 Lead RP

First of the grade, 3rd RP, second session.

Stig 04/Aug/14 TR dog
with Wil
innes 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Ruth
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead
C coldwell-storry 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Nic
Rachel Slater 02/Aug/14 Lead RP

Fell off at the chains on a chalky non-hold on the first RP!

with Anna Gilyeat
drysori 31/Jul/14 Lead RP
Haydn Jones 31/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 29/Jul/14 Lead dog
dav 24/Jul/14 Lead β

seen people on it before.

with Si Davis
Hidden 22/Jul/14 Lead dog
NDD 15/Jul/14 Lead
with toby
Ian Broome 15/Jul/14 Lead RP

Fell off at chains the other day. Quit

Hidden 12/Jul/14 TR dog
highrepute 08/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead RP
Ethan 05/Jul/14 Lead β
with Gus
nathanlee 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Nice top bit.

with Gus Hudgins
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/14 Lead

First red point. Lovely lower wall, good climbing al the way

Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead RP
Gus 20/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead RP
jfreeman 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with James Buckley, George Hartley
Hidden 27/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jun/13 Lead dog
mark20 13/May/13 Lead RP

Bored of The Zipper

Hidden 13/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead dnf
Toby Dunn ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Oct/11 TR dog
Si dH 04/Oct/11 Lead RP

Yes!! Got this 2nd attempt tonight just as it went dark, following 4 attempts on Sunday and after working it the week before. All 5 of the failed attempts ended on the last two moves up to the belay. So glad to clip in at the top! Big Zipper finish.

with Chris Foster
Dan Jenkin 01/Oct/11 Lead RP

tried this back in may...fired it off 1st go 2day, nice!

with Theo, Chris Lockyer, Chris Barr
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
miastacey ?/Aug/11 Lead RP

Done with big Zipper finish.

with Ben Heason, Katherine Sellers, Bob Smith
derico 30/Jul/11 Lead RP

Big Zipper finish, love this route! Fall on first go almost as much fun as the send.

with Adam & Michelle
Chi Cheng 11/Jul/11 Lead dog

7b: big zipper finish

with Mike Borg-Costanzi
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/11 -
tuftynick 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
with ben winston
J.Wells 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Jon Imong
PeteH 20/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Ben Heason
Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Stefan Gallagher 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

Big Zipper finish

gregoritos 12/Jun/11 Lead rpt
alaan 30/May/11 Lead dog

Fell from the last hold, too pumped to clip. Good climbing in the lower-half!

with Grant
Ian Broome 24/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead β
steve_yo ?/Apr/11 Lead
uptown 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Boy
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Jul/10 TR dog
skygodley 05/Jul/10 Lead RP

My girlfriend thought the route was as good as Sautanz but I'm not so sure!

with SarahM
gregoritos 24/Jun/10 Lead RP
shark 21/Jun/10 Lead
Brown 18/Jun/10 Lead RP

With original right hand finish.

with Lilifa
Hidden 08/Jun/10 Lead RP
Andrew Barker 04/Jun/10 Lead RP

Cleaned and climbed the original finish which has superb moves and feels surprisingly logical despite being an eliminate.

with Chris Taylor
TomPR ?/Jun/10 Lead
Gus 31/May/10 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 30/May/10 Lead RP

Toped it no falls first route of the day then led 1st go.

with John Hart
bigie bob 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 27/May/10 Lead dog

Grabed lower-off staring at the belay on 3rd rp, bummer

with Andy Cave
jondude 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead β
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/06 Lead RP

First RP.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Aug/06 2nd
nige 04/Jul/06 Lead
with craig smith
lx ?/Jul/06 Lead

7b finish

Boy ??/2006 -
robyn1 ??/2006 -
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
andy farnell ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
with Ian Patterson
dominic lee 16/Jul/05 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Henners 01/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Alan Cassidy
Hidden ??/2003 -
climber34neil ??/2003 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/01 Lead β
craig d ??/2000 -
kristian ??/2000 Lead O/S
WuDavid ??/2000 -
Hidden 27/Sep/97 Lead RP
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead RP


Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Dave Douglas 22/Jul/94 Lead RP
with Stuart Cameron
Billg ?/Jul/94 Lead rpt

1st redpoint

sadams ?/Aug/91 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 10/Oct/90 Lead dog
Billg ?/Jul/90 Lead RP
with Jon Barton
DDDD ??/1990 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/89 Lead RP
Mike Owen 06/Sep/89 -
with Dave Hinton
shark 21/Jun/89 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam_42, ashtond6, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, MYox, theomoore, Hidden, Leo Woodhead, Hidden, daimon, Hidden, Nom
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set