1100m. The numerous crevasses on the lower slope of Haigutum East need to be skirted to the west before following an obvious line from west to east traversing almost from below the peak to the right to approximately half way up the Haigutum East. This may seem a long route but it works and is largely safe from serac fall. Once on the traverse/climb east take care not to climb too high as you will encounter snow fields littered with avalanche debris with overhung seracs lining the route above. The climb to high camp is gentle with the odd crevasse that needs to be skirted around. The high camp is relatively easy to identify from the northern side of the Hispar glacier and is where the easy traverse line from west to east described above meets the north-eastern rib halfway up the mountain.

From high camp ascend the rib that begins directly above. The route winds through seracs and crosses several difficult crevasses situated beneath relatively steep snow to eventually meet the summit ridge east of the summit and approximately 400m above high camp. When we climbed the northern ridge the snow conditions were particularly poor making going slow. Conditions on the main summit ridge improved however. This stretch of climbing involves a lengthy traverse along 45° ice followed by a number of steep short pitches to eventually reach the summit.

Lee Harrison, Peter Thompson 27/Jul/2006.

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