16m.
Rockfax Description
Tackle the hanging blunt arete. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Yorkshire Limestone Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Will Hunt | 20 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: The fang breaking off has apparently returned the route more to how it used to be. The fang had formed by stuff falling off around it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The fang breaking off has apparently returned the route more to how it used to be. The fang had formed by stuff falling off around it! |
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| J B Oughton | 18 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Hadn't tried it pre-break, but it's not too hard to climb into the crux section. There's still a decent flake for the left hand at the crux, and there's still room for a heel to make the next move, it's probably just a bit harder/higher to get a heel on. Not sure it's worth glueing back together to be honest, the climbing isn't hard enough to affect the grade, and the rock you'd be gluing onto looks a bit crap. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hadn't tried it pre-break, but it's not too hard to climb into the crux section. There's still a decent flake for the left hand at the crux, and there's still room for a heel to make the next move, it's probably just a bit harder/higher to get a heel on. Not sure it's worth glueing back together to be honest, the climbing isn't hard enough to affect the grade, and the rock you'd be gluing onto looks a bit crap. |
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| loundsy | 25 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: I’ll try and get there this week to glue this and the hold Pete h mentions | βeta? | |
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βeta: I’ll try and get there this week to glue this and the hold Pete h mentions |
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| remus | 25 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Big undercut has now fallen off. Will Hunt on yorkshire limestone fb group: "The big tooth undercut on Angel Heart at Troller's Gill came off today. I have stashed the three pieces in the obvious hole at the start of Velveteen Rabbit. The moves entering the crux will still go but I believe that people used this as a heel toe so it would be worth glueing back on." | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Big undercut has now fallen off. Will Hunt on yorkshire limestone fb group: "The big tooth undercut on Angel Heart at Troller's Gill came off today. I have stashed the three pieces in the obvious hole at the start of Velveteen Rabbit. The moves entering the crux will still go but I believe that people used this as a heel toe so it would be worth glueing back on." |
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| PeteH | 15 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Logged to warn others that first big undercut/sidepull on arete (I use it for LH then left heel) is very loose and likely to ping off soon - watch out belayers. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Logged to warn others that first big undercut/sidepull on arete (I use it for LH then left heel) is very loose and likely to ping off soon - watch out belayers. |
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| richardh | 21 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: bolts currently in deadly state ( 07/05 ), will be replacing them soon(ish). | βeta? | |
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βeta: bolts currently in deadly state ( 07/05 ), will be replacing them soon(ish). |
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Guidebooks for Troller's Gill
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Route of Interest
Vorsprung Durch Technik
Grade: 7c+ ***
(Yew Cogar)