Rockfax Description
III, 1100m, 4 - 5 hours. An excellent introduction to the world of alpine north faces, the Mallory-Porter is essentially a long snow climb, but a serious one. Protection is not easy to find so, despite the relatively amenable climbing, don't underestimate this one. The good news is that it is about as simple and logistically easy a north face as you will find, with a short approach and a lift descent. The route is dependent on having snow, which it usually does until early summer. It is best done after a good freeze in spring.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow a path up the moraine to the left of the toe of the Glacier des Pélerins. Cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the foot of the route, passing underneath the Frendo Spur. There is some serac danger towards the end of the approach, so don't pause for a break until at the very start of the route.
1) Follow a 45 degree snow gully, which is hidden during the approach, and then continue rightwards up the 50 degree ramp into the middle of the buttress.
2) Climb the left-leaning open slabby corner for 25m to an exit onto a short snowfield (Scottish III ).
3) Head up the snowfield to its top right corner and then continue up steep snow, hugging the rock buttress on the right, which gradually pushes you diagonally left to the top of the central snowfield.
4) From here, go straight up a short, exposed step and then climb the 55 degree gully which leads to the 'Demi-lune', the col where the Mallory-Porter joins the Eugster Direct.
5) Climb the upper snowfield before making a long traverse leftwards to reach the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Pay attention to crevasses on the traverse which can be quite open, even in spring.
Descent - Take the lift down! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes a winding route up the north face of the Midi, finally ascending under the line of the lift for the last 300m. First skied in 1977.

George Leigh Mallory and H. E. L. Porter 05/Aug/1919

Hidden 01/Jan Solo
jimmatthews 01/Jan Solo O/S

New Years Day. Soloed, from ~10am bin. 3hrs20 - feeling tired. Got cold waiting behind people near the top. Ice near the top was a little grey. Good day.

Rob84 30/Dec/15 -
with Mike Dudley
Hidden 29/Dec/15 Solo
rcollins 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Sugary snow made for slow going on the upper snow slopes. Topped out later than planned.

with Thomas Shaw
Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Steve Kempley 30/May/11 AltLd β

Great day out on the Aiguille du Midi, not technically hard but tremendous situations, great variations in the route, quite a bit of soft snow and a long ascent. Topped out before the last 'frique down and before the evening thunderstorms arrived ... so all told a great day out and a perfect weekend trip to Chamonix.

with Gus
Ben Briggs ?/May/11 -

Ski decent, little snow cover on the cruxes.

with Cedric, Luca
Hidden 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs ?/May/09 -

Skied the route as a descent great powder to the demi lune but very hard snow lower down, super exposed!

with Brendan
Oliver Sherman 14/Apr/09 AltLd

Lead first 950m with Mark, then final 50m lead by Christophe Profit while he was rescuing us at 2 in the morning. A memorable day out.

with Mark Call
Richard Weller ?/Aug/80 AltLd

A bit of an epic. We were off route, and with poor weather (snow and wind) arriving had to bivouac. We just picked our way up what seemed the easiest line in very poor visibility on day two, but one of my crampons broke and we had to cut steps. I then fell on a traverse and the other crampon was ripped from my boot. Very slow going as a result and we had to bivouac on the rocks about 100m below the summit and the cable car station. The weather was bad enough to stop any cable cars running on the second day. We were lowered a rope from the cable car station and prussiked up it finish. The adventures of one's youth!

with Richard White
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