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|Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >|
|Tatra Direct|| E2 5c|
<< Tatra (after 2014 rockfall)
Marmolata Arete >>
|2 pitches. Next to 'Tatra' to the left & 'Teenage Wasteland' to the right.
A strenuous first pitch up to the cave stance of ‘Tatra’ is followed by very exposed bridging. Rockfall in the upper section has altered this route, and a pre-inspection is advised. The original description for the second pitch has significantly altered.
Start just right of Tatra below the left hand of two roof-cracks.
1 16m (50ft) 5c/6a Climb the crack direct to the cave. Large nut & thread belay. Very large gear for the crux moves (getting established around the corner of the bottom roof) is advised; cams 4 or 5 & the biggest hexes you have.
2 19m 60ft) Follow the overhanging chimney to a small ledge. Climb twin cracks to the top & belay on the abseil stake. PRE-INSPECTION ADVISED BEFORE COMMITTING TO SECOND PITCH)
A C Willmott, A Heppenstall (2 pts aid). Pitch 2 added by R. J. Crewe, R Kent, J Yaldren 03.12.67. Reclimbed after rockfall by N. A Coe, T Dunsby 30.11.91
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Hidden - 2014
Big Gear? Did with a number 2 camalot. Pitch 2 has some lovely unstable blocks and flakes. Great ruckle experience.
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with andrew porter
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10
Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Oct/09
Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/09
Reclimbed after rockfall
Nigel Coe - 30/Nov/91 with Tim Dunsby