Rockfax Description
Steady climbing with a bit of a run-out. It remains a good lead although it is often top-roped, hence the polish. Pull through the bulge just left of The Directissima past a small wire to a thread. Continue past a peg, then join The Directissima below the final groove. Follow the groove to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Berzins, A.Cowell 1982

Ticklists: Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Luke Dawson 21/Aug TR O/S
with Flo Tilley
Anna M 06/Aug 2nd RP
with Nige
Hidden ?/Aug -
RFWilkie 05/Jul TR dog

Shame this isn't bolted really! Would be a 3 star 7a/+. A few goes very nearly clean but got pumped at top.

Hidden 05/Jul TR
Hidden 24/May TR rpt
Adam Lincoln 04/May -
Hidden ??/2015 TR RP
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 03/Aug/14 TR dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Jul/14 TR
with Toby Dunne
markalmack 20/Jul/14 TR β

Was thinking about leading this. Glad i didn't!

with TL
Kim M ?/Jul/14 2nd RP
with Nige
Hidden 21/Jun/14 TR
Shortarse.Crowley 03/May/14 TR O/S

A little pumpy, great for a warm up on TR

with Justin Critchlow
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/14 TR
Hidden 18/Mar/14 TR
Hidden 25/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/13 TR rpt
emily_allen 22/Jun/13 TR β
Hidden 12/May/13 TR
Hidden 09/May/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
GuyVG 12/Aug/12 TR

I hope this is considered hard E5, I was mega done by the top. Good training

with Shrew
Ed Booth 05/Aug/12 TR rpt
Hidden 29/Jul/12 TR RP
thebigfriendlymoose 01/Jun/12 TR RP
with JohnM
DDDD 27/May/12 TR O/S
with Seb Grieve
Hidden 26/May/12 TR dog
Hidden 02/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 01/Jul/11 TR rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 12/Jun/11 TR rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR rpt
akhughes 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 08/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 12/Apr/11 -
Hidden 12/Apr/11 -
nickmoulden 07/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Dalvinda Dunning
Hidden 27/Mar/11 TR dog
nickmoulden 23/Mar/11 TR rpt
with Steve Dunning
nickmoulden 02/Aug/10 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/10 TR rpt
Brown 07/Jun/10 TR RP
with Jon B
nickmoulden 26/May/10 TR
with Tom Newman
Ed Booth 01/May/10 TR O/S


Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/09 TR dog
Hidden 25/Aug/09 TR O/S
Bennykr 17/Aug/09 TR O/S

did cleanly the toproped it like 4-5 times to get a mega pump, awsome route, would be a scary lead though

with Jonny
Hidden 16/Aug/09 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/09 TR RP
Hidden 20/Jul/09 -
steve_biczyk 04/Jul/09 TR rpt

About 7a...

with Emma, Keith & Dave
Hidden 31/May/09 TR RP
Toby Dunn 02/May/09 Lead
with Jon Fulwood
Boy ?/May/09 -
with Toby Dunn
datoon 04/Apr/09 TR
with MJ
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 02/Aug/08 -
Ram MkiV 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with al & andy
Hidden 29/Jul/08 -
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead RP
morganator 18/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Graham Cooper
loonyclimber 05/Jul/08 TR RP

Clean second go after a couple of laps on Directissima to warm up. Would make a great 7a+ sport...

Hidden 17/Jun/08 -
Hidden 10/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
joe larner 16/Sep/07 TR
ali_robb ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Jarin 20/Jun/07 TR rpt
with John
Hidden ??/2007 -
mattnuttall 12/May/06 TR rpt
with Bartosz 'Bart' Zurawski
mattnuttall 25/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
innes ??/1999 TR
Mike Owen 06/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
mikedelderfield 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 09/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
Roget 16/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/95 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Jul/95 Lead RP
robyn1 ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 06/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 26/Jun/93 Lead O/S

Proper onsight. When to crag really early to try it before the crowds arrived. All the insitu gear can be backed up with small wires.

with KM
Dave Musgrove 28/Mar/93 TR dog
with Kim Greenald, David
Dave Musgrove ??/1993 2nd
with David
Mike Owen 22/Jun/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 24/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/90 -
Dave Musgrove 27/Apr/90 TR β
with Kim Greenald
mark mcgowan01 ??/1990 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 12/Sep/87 2nd
with Ian Kyle, Bob Smith
Hidden ?/Jun/87 -
Mike Owen 17/Oct/85 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
Hidden 18/Jun/83 2nd
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set