Rockfax Description
Difficult climbing through the lower bulges is followed by excellent moves up the slim corner and wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall 1984

Hidden 03/Oct Lead RP
Moondance 21/Aug Lead RP
with Paul B
Rachel Slater 27/Jun Lead RP

Second go, although it took a bit of time to work out the burly start!

tim newton 27/Jun Lead RP
Matt Cooke 20/Jun Lead RP
OERees 06/Jun Lead RP

2nd go.

Hidden 03/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 17/May Lead RP
samwillo 05/Oct/14 Lead
timmsy 29/Sep/14 Lead RP

at last - it made me work for it. Still good to RP a route that i would do again because its good

with lionel
timmsy 24/Sep/14 TR RP

self notes-90 second rest at ledge knee bar, head in.tope felt easy this time with shake out rest at slopers doesn't feel like rest but i get enough back. Felt rubbish at start. Left foot on 45 degree toe hold for crux

with lionel
cjsheps 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25/Aug/14 Lead RP
PeteH 06/Aug/14 Lead RP

Miles away from the attempted flash, but got out 1st RP.

henry peter jenkins 01/Aug/14 Lead RP
with jamie N A, Ian henderson
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead RP
morganator 19/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Tony Stone, Stan Halstead
TRFrost 18/Jul/14 Lead RP
np134 18/Jul/14 Lead RP

A few TRs then 1st proper RP over 2 sessions

Hidden 08/Jul/14 Lead rpt
oread 28/Jun/14 Lead RP
sheppy 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

Nice to lay this to rest very quickly after last years horror show

with iain n jules
henry peter jenkins 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

not yet done clean, pump fest!

with jamie N A
markalmack 19/Jun/14 Lead RP
RossKirtley 19/Jun/14 Lead dog

Sat on the rope several times, really good fun working this!

Hidden 17/Jun/14 TR rpt
Harry Holmes 12/Jun/14 Lead RP

First RP attempt, first 7b

with Oli Read
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/14 Lead RP
rikbattye 21/May/14 Lead β
david morse 20/May/14 Lead RP

In a session. Well happy

with 2 finger
Hidden 18/May/14 TR
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Mar/14 TR
adamjeffs 22/Sep/13 Lead RP
with chris
C coldwell-storry 31/Aug/13 Lead RP
Si dH 15/Aug/13 Lead RP

Second rp attempt. On 1st rp go I didnt have the sequence wired and fell above the 5th, after all the hard climbing - just totally boxed.

with Andy Morris
Rachel Somerville 15/Aug/13 Lead RP

8 sessions? really struggled with the start.

with Si dH
Luke Dawson 06/Aug/13 Lead β
sheppy 04/Aug/13 Lead dog

Felt harder than either of yesterday's routes but conditions were quite humid and I guess I was more tired than I thought!

with julesp
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead RP
jkarran 09/Jul/13 Lead dnf

From the ground past the groove then left behind the left foot and failed to rock onto the jugs. Good progress.

with Smith
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jun/13 TR
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead dog
jkarran 29/Jun/13 Lead dnf

More falls from the top of the groove but at least now linked from the floor.

with Smith
GrantB 25/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead rpt
jkarran 25/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Progress on the start: Better RH grip (not dragged), thumb on uncomfortable LH edge, R toe on sharp edge, rock over the R knee and toe hook/poke the roof with the left. Still a way off linking it.

with Smith, Grant
jkarran 17/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Apparently not just an off form day, I just can't make the move to the first bolt. The rest is a lot easier but there's still a lot of route after that crux for 7b!

with Grant
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
WB 30/May/13 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 22/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 21/May/13 Lead RP
Jeronimo 16/May/13 Lead β
drysori 27/Apr/13 Lead dog

Lost a lot of fitness in the last month, although I don't think I've ever been Kilnsey fit. Nice route.

with Dunc
julesp 02/Sep/12 Lead RP

Crux was no problem its the steep start I find tough

with Iain
julesp 01/Sep/12 TR RP

should have got the rp but totally knackered. Just as well i didn't go for it cause all over the place when I stripped it on tr!

with Iain
jfreeman 18/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Neil Stabbs
Ed Booth 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 05/Aug/12 TR dog

Not used to this style, felt powerful and pumpy. Probably a good intro to the crag. Should go next time now I know the moves.

jkarran 26/Jun/12 Lead dnf

I'm going to chalk this up to having a seriously off-form day. 50+ goes at the start and I still can't get to the first bolt.

with Grant
thebigfriendlymoose 26/May/12 Lead RP
with Ian P
thebigfriendlymoose 24/May/12 Lead dog
with Martin Fisher
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead RP
jacobjacob 29/Mar/12 Lead β

Just sit down mate!

Malcolm Bass ??/2012 Lead RP
innes ??/2012 Lead RP
dannyboy83 30/Oct/11 Lead RP
Tophe 30/Oct/11 Lead β
with Dan
Hidden 05/Oct/11 TR dog
Glenn Sutcliffe 16/Aug/11 Lead RP
with keefe
Nik Jennings 03/Aug/11 Lead β
with Rob
ksjs 30/Jul/11 Lead RP

Blew onsight just beneath jug, done next go. Defnitely worth extending 4th bolt (60cm sling with a quickdraw on the end) to help onsight prospects. Worth lowering the lower-off some time: there's a shield of rock that's pretty dodgy (potentially serious and adds nothing to route unless you like hollow finishes) just before finish; a hassle but possible to lower off Truth Drug.

with owen
Hidden 06/Jul/11 Lead dog
Bennykr 06/Jul/11 Lead RP

dogged first go then got it clean second go, nice climbing with contrasting halves!!

with Huw
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead rpt
andyb12354 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt
James Oakes 06/Jun/11 Lead dog

Found this quite difficult and pumpy, should go next vist.

craig matheson 26/May/11 Lead RP
keefe 22/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
westyb3 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Heather Ogston
TomPR 11/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
akhughes 09/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead RP
tom rookes ?/Aug/10 Lead
RD ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead RP
Brown 07/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Jon B
nickmoulden 06/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Tom Newman
NDD 04/Jun/10 Lead
Paul Figg 31/May/10 Lead RP
datoon 20/May/10 Lead RP
with K
Hidden ?/May/10 -
bigie bob 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
JM ??/2010 -
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
uptown 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Keeg
Andrew Barker 06/Aug/09 Lead RP

A great route. Tried to redpoint yesterday but blew it due to being a wuss and trying to clip the fourth bolt in an awkward position rather than making one more move to jugs. It seems like the route should have finished around the fifth or sixth bolt as the rest is like easy crappy peak limestone.

with Chunk
Matt Fry 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Putting clips in on lead. The jug I jumped for near the end of the hard climbing had wet paste in!

with Dan Woolnough
middlevern 27/Jun/09 Lead RP
with James ?
Stewart B 21/Jun/09 Lead β
with Ally, Mike, Redpath
Ally Baba 21/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Dave R
lx 21/Jun/09 Lead


with French Alex
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
nathanmanc 30/May/09 Lead RP
with Steve B
Toby Dunn 09/Apr/09 Lead
with Nick Verney
Hidden 29/Aug/08 Lead RP
Alex Mason 22/Jun/08 Lead RP

Put clips in, had a top-rope, got cold-pump on 1st rp at 3rd clip, slipped off on start on 2nd rp, 3rd rp went for it no mercy. Never been so pumped, 3hrs later writing this its hurting my forearms. I'm weak.

Ram MkiV 22/Jun/08 Lead

retro flash, tired from working and having a go at the ashes this was pretty close. Sequency groove.

with alex, tom & andy
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
Sean_J ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
steve_biczyk ??/2007 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 23/Aug/06 Lead RP

first 7b

with Alex
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 06/Aug/06 Lead rpt
with Andy Cave
Tony Little 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
with Ed Brown
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
mattnuttall ?/Sep/05 TR rpt
with Clement Mounier
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S

Day out with Viv and Katherine

marky 11/Aug/02 Lead RP
shark ?/Aug/02 Lead RP
Cassidy 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
nige ?/May/02 Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead RP
kristian ??/2002 Lead O/S
sadams 08/Aug/99 Lead
with John Boyle
Steve Crowe 03/Sep/94 Lead RP

E5 6b poor threads when I did it, before it was retrobolted. Fell off onsight, sorted then ticked next go.

with KM
Hidden 23/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 19/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/90 -
Mike Owen 15/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Leon Laubscher, JamesTurnbull97, timmsy, Bloke on a Rope, coombsy, thebigfriendlymoose, Arcarn, Hidden, Ian Paterson, James Oakes, Hidden
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set