Rockfax Description
Varied climbing up the right-hand side of the arete. The start requires a fierce pull through the initial overhang. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A bit harder now at the top since a foothold broke .

FA. Tony Burnell 1993

Ticklists: 28 Decent Sport Routes.

nathanlee 11/Aug Lead O/S

Good fight. Very morpho.

with Laura Smitton
stp 04/Aug Lead RP

Badly bolted. No gear at all for the 1st crux at the bottom. It's just possible to clip the first bolt with a really, really long cheat stick. Most of the rest of the bolts all seem way off to the right instead of where the actual climbing is.

with Zips
Macleod 19/Jul TR
peppermill 19/Jul TR dnf
julesp 05/Jul TR dog

Desperate top move for the short. Finally got workable sequence but no skin

with Iain
MichaelGallimore 10/Jun Lead RP

Took a while to figure out top crux, tried to send it with a head torch and climbed really well until crux bulge blocked the torch light and I couldn't see the footholds! Fell off after the crux moves. Returned next week and led clean first time whilst putting the draws in.

with jon lawson
penny.orr 23/May TR dog

Difficult start and very hard moves at the top.

Hidden 12/May Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 04/May Lead
with Stephen
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25/Aug/14 Lead O/S
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead β
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Jul/14 Lead RP
adamjeffs 24/Jun/14 Lead RP
with james
sheppy 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

In guide at 7a+ but def felt like good 7b Hard start and hard finish with a soft centre

with iain n jules
markalmack 19/Jun/14 Lead β
rikbattye 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Finally did it with one rest, I don't think I did it the best way but you have to just bear down and get to the undercut with high feet then its a matter of can you span to the jug (which I can)

with John Copper
jamesgodwin64 07/Jun/14 Lead dnf

liked the route, you have to stick to the arete more than you think, but couldn't figure out the last bolt's moves, gave up.

with John Copper
MichaelGallimore 22/May/14 Lead dnf

Got to within 2 clips of the top. Came off after bulge. Couldn't do crux move. Will try again.

with Paul,
marky 18/May/14 Lead RP

Tough 7b now since loss of footholds at top. 2nd go.

with Sharon
Luke Dawson 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 11/Jul/13 TR rpt
with Mark
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Ian Broome 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

Couldn't do start previously. 1st RP once got start sorted.

innes 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ruth
efrance24234 24/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Aug/12 TR dog
julesp 22/Aug/12 TR dog

right hand routes wet and left hand routes busy! finally found a sequence for top. Can understand people saying its soft but if youre short its nails!

with amanda
julesp 20/Jul/12 TR dog

really powerful start. worked out a sequence but still couldnt get it in one. felt like id had a really hard boulder sesh! then the top move was very reachy

with Iain
thebigfriendlymoose 10/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Rob and Sam
robin_hackney 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Jim, Si
C coldwell-storry ?/Mar/12 Lead
with phil jack
Malcolm Bass ??/2012 Lead RP
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Ant
Jon Garside 17/Jul/11 Lead β

Had done start before as shared with Frankie.

Hidden 08/Jul/11 TR dnf
nickmoulden 01/Jul/11 Lead RP
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/May/11 -
with keefe
keefe 30/May/11 Lead β
w.pettet-smith ?/May/11 Lead dog

7a+ surely.anyway. pretty good.pleased even though i fell off the flakey bit at top.

with simon kimber
westyb3 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 25/Aug/10 2nd
with loundsy
Toby Dunn 07/Jul/10 Lead
with Martin Fisher
robbo 13/Jun/10 Lead RP

Tried last year and it's definitely lost a number of footholds at the crux. The crux is tres cheeky now.

Hidden 13/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
JM ??/2010 -
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
akhughes ??/2010 Lead rpt

Second go

uptown 28/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 05/Aug/09 Lead RP

Tried this years ago and got about a third of the way up! Blew the last move to the jug on the first go today, then got back on and sent it next go. Definitely my style, technical and pretty much vertical.

with Chunk
dominic lee 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with neil foster
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead
derico 30/Jun/09 Lead RP

Hard crux at top!

with Jon Freeman
jfreeman 30/Jun/09 Lead RP
lx 21/Jun/09 Lead β

Hard. Reachy crux

with French Alex
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead RP
Ally Baba 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
CharlieMack 07/Jun/09 TR dog
with Ali
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
datoon 04/Apr/09 Lead
with MJ
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
bigie bob 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
RD 10/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
Tony Little 26/Jul/06 Lead RP
with Darren
Hidden 14/Jun/06 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Cassidy 07/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
Henners 01/Sep/02 Lead RP
with Craig McCallum
GeoffG 27/May/99 Lead
shark 02/Apr/99 Lead RP

1st rp

Hidden 16/May/98 Lead β
sadams 02/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with John Fletcher
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Dave Musgrove 02/Jul/94 Lead dog

Still can't do it in one push!

with David
Steve Crowe 04/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Andy Earl
Dave Musgrove 02/Jun/94 Lead dog

1 rest near the top.

andy farnell ??/1993 Lead β
with Graham Iles
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
thebigfriendlymoose, Hidden, Hidden
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set