Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall 1985. Originally a bold A5. Climbed without bolts by Martin Berzins 1987. The bolts have been in and out over the years but are now in and likely to stay.

Ticklists: Northern Limestone for Catalans, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List.

nickmoulden 23/Oct Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
dan gibson 12/Oct Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
nickmoulden 02/Oct Lead rpt
FloTilley 27/Aug Lead RP
with James
nige 10/Aug Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
Cailean Harker 07/Aug Lead O/S

Happy to insight this classic

W d c 24/Jul Lead RP

Outstanding. 2 days ,1st redpoint 2nd day. First bolt pre clipped.

with BILL G
Billg 24/Jul Lead RP
with Will Calvert
funsized 22/Jul Lead RP

Disco legs at the final moves! Surprised myself on 2RP.

with Josh
Joshua Robertson 08/Jul Lead RP

One of the best routes at Kilnsey

ollyisaclimber 07/Jul Lead RP

Great route. 3rd redpoint after trying a couple of times on a rope. A bit run-out but that just adds to the experience!

Misha 03/Jul Lead RP

Got it! First go was feeling a bit tired from two goes the day before. Didn't make it to the big flattie below the overlap, then clean from the knee bar to the last bolt but couldn't finish in one, easy after a rest though. Second go wasn't expecting to redpoint but got all the moves pretty much spot on and milked the rests. At the last bolt used the well chalked jug at the top of the Balas groove for a better rest position, which I hadn't done before. Managed to get a good shakeout, so the the top crux went fine. Really pleased to get this one - three days and six goes overall. Hardjer than Space Race but not quite as hard as Tremelo (the crux on that is harder). Will have to try something steep next time (this being a slab by Kilnsey standards).

with Eszter
Misha 02/Jul Lead dog

Two goes. First go unexpectedly got through the crux but pumped out on the move to the flattie below the fourth bolt. Bolt to bolt from there. Second go pumped out just before the move to the flattie, then managed to link it from the knee bar to the last bolt. Several goes on the finishing sequence - heartbreaker! Reckon that would be the redpoint crux.

with Eszter
soph 25/Jun Lead dog
with Will perret smith
robertmctague 14/Jun Lead RP
with Mike
Misha 11/Jun Lead dog

One and a half goes. Theo traversed on from Balas for the first bolt as just outside clip stick range. First go we couldn't figure out the start but I got all the other moves. Crux at the square cut feature felt very on/off. A few pumpy moves to the distant bolt above. Nothing hard after that but sustained. Second go figured out the start with a bit of beta from the regulars. A series of dynamic moves, get the balance right and it's not too bad. Also figured out a static way of getting to the flatties above the square cut feature (L knee into the groove, undercut with R, twist in while pushing a bit with R foot below, reach up with L) but too pumped to get to the next bolt. Next time!

with Theo
nickmoulden ?/Jun Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
JCAshman 30/May Lead RP
samwillo 16/May Lead

2nd go.. Hard to onsight. Brilliant route

Hidden ??/2016 -
piken ??/2016 -
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead β
richgibson 02/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Tim Wise
Hidden 02/Sep/15 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 21/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Flo Tilley
will smith11 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 09/Jul/15 -
robertmichaeladams 20/Jun/15 TR dog

A way to go, couple of plays

with Tim
Matt Cooke 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
Leon Laubscher 18/Jun/15 Lead RP
Dave Mayes 12/Jun/15 Lead RP

1st redders, so good

with Shakira
julesp 07/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Iain
julesp 06/Jun/15 TR RP

Run out!!!

with Iain
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/May/15 Lead RP
JamesTurnbull97 16/May/15 Lead RP

Pleased to finally do it, tried to last year but was too scared to lead it. 4th RP today after falling going for the finishing jug twice!

Seb Grieve ??/2015 -
henry peter jenkins 09/Sep/14 Lead dog

well scary! want to go back for the clean acsent though :)

with kev
morganator 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Tom Bridgeland
Joughton 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A tough onsight, very blind finish.

Hidden 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
chris_j_s 31/Aug/14 Lead dog

Good to get on such a classic route. Hard!

with James McCartan
julesp 24/Aug/14 TR dog

Main body wired still to work start and get sequence for top above rest

with Iain
jesse rees 05/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
oread 16/Jul/14 Lead RP

2 sessions, first 7b+

Harry Holmes 10/Jul/14 TR RP
with Oli Read
adamjeffs 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with james
Ian Broome 21/Jun/14 Lead RP

Tried last year. Clips in 1st RP. Full value.

PeteH 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe, Kev Avery
Bennykr 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Amazing climbing. First go today putting clips in.

with Will smith, Andy tappa
markalmack 15/Jun/14 Lead RP
with little tom, chris todd, Dave morse
innes 14/Jun/14 Lead β

Pleased with this. Not quite on sight having done Balas in 2000!

with Tim
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
bigie bob 31/May/14 Lead O/S
rikbattye 25/May/14 Lead RP

Did it clean on TR first go, then did it. The hundreds of bright tick marks may of helped!! It was like climbing a indoor route.

Hidden 17/May/14 Lead RP
Smith42 17/May/14 Lead RP
with James
Smith42 10/May/14 TR RP
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead RP
andy jennings 22/Sep/13 TR dog
with keith
Hidden 08/Sep/13 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
Ian Broome 14/Jul/13 TR dog

did all the moves, redpoint next time. really good.

khawk 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with DT
datoon 04/Jul/13 Lead RP
with K
dominic lee 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
Howard Lawledge 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
with dave
C coldwell-storry 06/Sep/12 Lead RP
with liam taylor
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead RP
Simon Davis 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Went on this once about 10yrs ago. Couldn't remember a single thing about the route so taking the onsight.

with Alan Steele, Toby Denny
WB 04/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 02/Jul/12 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 15/Jun/12 Lead RP

Lead putting the draws in (never having tried to lead it before) - the impetus of a possibly one-off scrounged belay (after my arranged partner had failed to turn up)!

with awsomal
thebigfriendlymoose 10/Jun/12 TR RP
highrepute 03/Jun/12 Lead RP
Dan Jenkin 03/Jun/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with James Jacobs, Jacob Cook
jacobjacob 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Pleased with this, my arms hurt all the way up. Moving left at the top was interesting!

Hidden 05/Oct/11 TR dnf
uptown 18/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sean_J
BenNorman 25/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fell off on lead just before last draw, well runout and well good, not my style but good to try such a classic, Hard!

with Will Buck
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
jhs3jtmh ??/2011 Lead
jfreeman 04/Sep/10 Lead β
ewen 04/Sep/10 Lead dog
NDD 24/Aug/10 Lead

Quite tricky.

with redpath
Mike Goldthorp 20/Jul/10 Lead RP

Awesome wall climbing! Fell off at the powerful undercut move on the flash, dogged to top, then got it 2nd redpoint after forgettin feet on 1st rp. Solid 7b+ (apparently conditions were poor)

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
JM ??/2010 -
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Dave Bond 25/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Simon Wren
Alex Mason 23/Jul/09 Lead RP

Clips in, top rope, sent. A lot more amenable than expected with wicked moves and a proper finish.

with Billy Laurence
marcpontin ?/Jul/09 TR dog
with huw
Stewart B 21/Jun/09 Lead RP

2nd go. Terrifying!

with Ally, Mike, Redpath
lx 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Really good. Tricky crux

with French Alex
Ally Baba 20/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Stewart B
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
willackers 06/Jul/08 Lead RP

Really good climbing from start to finish, fluffed the last moves on the on-sight then did it 1st RP.

with Tom Mills, Dan Walker
Oliver Wright ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
ali_robb ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Henners 01/Sep/05 Lead RP
with Neil McGeek
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead RP
Paul Clarke ??/2005 Lead
with Tony Burnell
Hidden 09/Sep/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 01/Jul/04 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Sep/03 Lead RP
Cassidy 25/Jun/02 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
GeoffG 27/May/99 TR
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/98 Lead RP
marky ??/1998 Lead RP
ukb shark ??/1995 Lead rpt
andy farnell ??/1995 Lead RP
with whispering nic
robyn1 ??/1995 -
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
with Ben, Bruce
Steve Crowe 04/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Pleased to onsight this at the time.

with Andy Earl
Dave Musgrove 02/May/94 Lead dog

Well worked but a couple of stopper moves for me.

keefe ??/1993 -
crossleysm ?/Jul/92 Lead RP

1st RP

Hidden 03/Aug/91 Lead RP
Mike Owen 18/Jul/89 Lead β
with Pete Kirton
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set