Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall 1985. Originally a bold A5. Climbed without bolts by Martin Berzins 1987. The bolts have been in and out over the years but are now in and likely to stay.

Ticklists: 28 Decent Sport Routes.

Hidden 27/Sep Lead β
Hidden 02/Sep Lead RP
Hidden 02/Sep Lead RP
Luke Dawson 21/Aug Lead RP
with Flo Tilley
willsm11 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 09/Jul -
robertmichaeladams 20/Jun TR dog

A way to go, couple of plays

with Tim
Matt Cooke 20/Jun Lead RP
Leon Laubscher 18/Jun Lead RP
Dave Mayes 12/Jun Lead RP

1st redders, so good

with Shakira
julesp 07/Jun Lead RP
with Iain
julesp 06/Jun TR RP

Run out!!!

with Iain
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/May Lead RP
JamesTurnbull97 16/May Lead RP

Pleased to finally do it, tried to last year but was too scared to lead it. 4th RP today after falling going for the finishing jug twice!

with Will Buck
WuDavid ??/2015 -
henry peter jenkins 09/Sep/14 Lead dog

well scary! want to go back for the clean acsent though :)

with kev
morganator 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Tom Bridgeland
Joughton 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A tough onsight, very blind finish.

cjsheps 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Focussed right till the top!

chris_j_s 31/Aug/14 Lead dog

Good to get on such a classic route. Hard!

with James McCartan
julesp 24/Aug/14 TR dog

Main body wired still to work start and get sequence for top above rest

with Iain
jesse rees 05/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
oread 16/Jul/14 Lead RP

2 sessions, first 7b+

Harry Holmes 10/Jul/14 TR RP
with Oli Read
adamjeffs 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with james
Ian Broome 21/Jun/14 Lead RP

Tried last year. Clips in 1st RP. Full value.

with Mike
PeteH 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe, Kev Avery
Bennykr 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Amazing climbing. First go today putting clips in.

with Will smith, Andy tappa
markalmack 15/Jun/14 Lead RP
with little tom, chris todd, Dave morse
innes 14/Jun/14 Lead β

Pleased with this. Not quite on sight having done Balas in 2000!

with Tim
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
bigie bob 31/May/14 Lead O/S
rikbattye 25/May/14 Lead RP

Did it clean on TR first go, then did it. The hundreds of bright tick marks may of helped!! It was like climbing a indoor route.

Hidden 17/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 10/May/14 TR RP
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead RP
andy jennings 22/Sep/13 TR dog
with keith
Hidden 08/Sep/13 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
Ian Broome 14/Jul/13 TR dog

did all the moves, redpoint next time. really good.

khawk 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with DT
datoon 04/Jul/13 Lead RP
with K
dominic lee 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
Howard Lawledge 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
with dave
C coldwell-storry 06/Sep/12 Lead RP
with liam taylor
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead RP
Simon Davis 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Went on this once about 10yrs ago. Couldn't remember a single thing about the route so taking the onsight.

with Alan Steele, Toby Denny
WB 04/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 02/Jul/12 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 15/Jun/12 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 10/Jun/12 TR RP
highrepute 03/Jun/12 Lead RP
Dan Jenkin 03/Jun/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with James Jacobs, Jacob Cook
jacobjacob 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Pleased with this, my arms hurt all the way up. Moving left at the top was interesting!

Hidden 05/Oct/11 TR dnf
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead dog
uptown 18/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sean_J
BenNorman 25/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fell off on lead just before last draw, well runout and well good, not my style but good to try such a classic, Hard!

with Will Buck
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
jhs3jtmh ??/2011 Lead
jfreeman 04/Sep/10 Lead β
ewen 04/Sep/10 Lead dog
NDD 24/Aug/10 Lead

Quite tricky.

with redpath
Mike Goldthorp 20/Jul/10 Lead RP

Awesome wall climbing! Fell off at the powerful undercut move on the flash, dogged to top, then got it 2nd redpoint after forgettin feet on 1st rp. Solid 7b+ (apparently conditions were poor)

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
JM ??/2010 -
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Dave Bond 25/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Simon Wren
Alex Mason 23/Jul/09 Lead RP

Clips in, top rope, sent. A lot more amenable than expected with wicked moves and a proper finish.

with Billy Laurence
marcpontin ?/Jul/09 TR dog
with huw
Stewart B 21/Jun/09 Lead RP

2nd go. Terrifying!

with Ally, Mike, Redpath
lx 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Really good. Tricky crux

with French Alex
Ally Baba 20/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Stewart B
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
willackers 06/Jul/08 Lead RP

Really good climbing from start to finish, fluffed the last moves on the on-sight then did it 1st RP.

with Tom Mills, Dan Walker
Oliver Wright ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
ali_robb ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Henners 01/Sep/05 Lead RP
with Neil McGeek
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/03 Lead RP
Cassidy 25/Jun/02 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
GeoffG 27/May/99 TR
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/98 Lead RP
marky ??/1998 Lead RP
shark ??/1995 Lead rpt
andy farnell ??/1995 Lead RP
with whispering nic
robyn1 ??/1995 -
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
with Ben, Bruce
Steve Crowe 04/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Pleased to onsight this at the time.

with Andy Earl
Dave Musgrove 02/May/94 Lead dog

Well worked but a couple of stopper moves for me.

keefe ??/1993 -
Hidden 03/Aug/91 Lead RP
Mike Owen 18/Jul/89 Lead β
with Pete Kirton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
will black, Leon Laubscher, tom rookes, Hidden, Bloke on a Rope, theomoore, Hidden, cjd91, thebigfriendlymoose, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Bill Lawrence, chris_j_s, selman, robbo, derico, Hidden
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set