Marlene Direct** E7 6c
A poorly protected 6a section leads directly up the arete to reach the break above 2/3rds height, where you can place lots of gear and shake out and contemplate the perplexing sequence required to reach the top.
Nick Dixon 1997

Ticklists: Nesscliffe: Marlene Aretes.

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This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Did the moves. Not so bad, 6a/b. Bold bit isn't too bad but last move felt insecure, unsure if I'd fancy leading it.
drysori - TR dog - 17/Aug/14

Got all the gear sussed. The move up to the really good gear at 2/3 hight is really bold.
Adam Booth - TR rpt - 07/Aug/14 with Tim Evans

I should lead this one... Each move gets a little harder, and a great crux at the top.
Adam Booth - TR RP - 06/Aug/14 with Rob Ierson, Tim Evans

finally sent! a bit shaky on the lead but so glad to top it out, have to say it's one of my favourite Nesscliffe lines
anguskille - Lead RP - 20/Apr/13 with Finn McCann, Laura

took the lob on at the top a few times. This is a route where it would be great to have a bit of lank!
Cailean Harker - Lead dog - 05/Jun/12

Michael Allday - TR O/S - 10/Mar/12 with rodney greenfield

Hidden - TR dog - 04/Oct/11

Close but no cigar...will get on it soon!
fennerz - Lead dog - 28/Mar/11 with Ed Booth

Cool, wanted to get this done at some point this sprng but thought may have needed more work. Fennerz was psyched as he got it in one on a rope yesterday, so we both tried on a rope today, i fell off at the crux, but when i pulled on I managed to do the moves. Fennerz went first and took the ride, so with his gear in, I led it. All the gear was where i was shaking out anyway so thats cool, and the one piece I did have to do myself was the peg mid crux sequence, which was spice. Nearly dropped the move. Ascent on film, so you can see my sketchy ass footwork. Enough of these half practised headpoints!
Ed Booth - Lead RP - 28/Mar/11 with Pat Novelli, Fennerz

Actually got a weird sequence for this that will work. Think I may have to get this done over the winter. Terrifying route.
Ed Booth - TR dog - 31/Aug/10 with Mikey G, Al Mason, smaller rich

Majestic arete climbing! Top roped clean up to the desperate crux move, figured that out after a few tries (ended up just reaaaaching and swinging round the arete, tall mans option - still felt nails!) Went up again later to check gear out, then lead it. Forgot quickdraw for peg at top so had to do 2nd crux move above pretty big runout, spice! Possibly 2nd ascent?
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 31/Aug/10 with Ed Booth, Laura Perry, alex mason, Rich Cannell

Retroflashed. Psychtastic.
smallerrich - TR RP - 30/Aug/10 with Mikey

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 11
hard E80 of 4
E80 of 4
easy E80 of 4
hard E73 of 4
E71 of 4
easy E70 of 4
hard E60 of 4
E60 of 4
easy E60 of 4
hard 7a0 of 3
7a0 of 3
easy 7a0 of 3
hard 6c2 of 3
6c1 of 3
easy 6c0 of 3
hard 6b0 of 3
6b0 of 3
easy 6b0 of 3
3 Stars2 of 4
2 Stars2 of 4
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