Rockfax Description
A popular long pitch. Stick to the line of bolts at the start and continue past the first lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
As described it incorporates The Alternative Option (F7a+) and The Extra Option (F7a+) to give a sustained F7b.

FA. (Optional Extra) Martin Berzins and others 1985. Started slightly left as Alternative Option by Mark Radtke 2002. Extended as Extra Optional by Matt Triolett 2002.

Ticklists: 28 Decent Sport Routes.

Mike Todd 22/Aug Lead dog
tim newton 13/Aug Lead O/S
with Mark Richardson
Glyn 09/Aug Lead O/S

Jugs! Wild and steep climbing

with Amy
Macleod 19/Jul Lead
cooperman 12/Jul Lead G/U
with Chris Rabs
Hidden 06/Jul -
climbingpixie 05/Jul Lead RP

Bit chossy but climbing is nice enough.

with Andy
Hidden 05/Jul Lead RP
TRFrost 21/Jun Lead RP
with W. Kelsall
Ramon Marin 19/Jun Lead RP
with viki harvey
Paul Figg 03/Jun Lead
PeteH 17/May Lead RP

Fluffed the flash.

shark 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

May have done something around here in the past but cant remember what

with Paul Reeve
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Andy Cave
Joughton 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Given 7a in Rockfax, seems tough! 7a+ seems fair.

cjsheps 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden 07/Aug/14 -
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Jul/14 Lead dog

Very nearly o/s

with Toby Dunne
Rachel Slater 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

7a+? Really struggled on this though after trying Pantomine all day!

with Fraser Hodby
david morse 02/Jul/14 Lead RP

Second go, blew the onsight at the top crux. Frustrating! 7a+

with markalmack, chris todd
Emilysaladfingers ?/Jul/14 TR dog

had a few attempts on TR. Hard for me as quite thuggy!

Bennykr 25/Jun/14 Lead β


with Will smith, Dan Green
nathanlee 23/Jun/14 Lead RP


with Neil Mawson
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Paul Figg ??/2014 -
adamjeffs 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mum
emily_allen 16/Aug/13 Lead rpt
emily_allen 02/Aug/13 Lead β
cliffrad 27/Jul/13 Lead RP

Really hard to read and know if your on the right line! 3rd go!

with eazy
Toby Dunn 21/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Mark Tomlinson
Bulls Crack 19/Jul/13 Lead RP

With the easier start and a rest on the right before 5th bolt 7a/easy 7a+

with SP
mattwyles1 24/Jun/13 Lead dog


mark20 23/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 23/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Ian Broome 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Confused, Altnative optional whatever?! Climbed the line following the bolts, some suspect rock held together with i'm not sure what. Fun steep pulling. Just made the belay!

WB 20/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Pagan
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/13 Lead RP
Jeronimo 16/May/13 Lead O/S
innes 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ruth
alek 05/May/13 Lead dog

4 attempts

Hidden 05/May/13 Lead RP
Rachel Somerville 28/Apr/13 Lead RP

Not entirely sure this is the route I did. The description matches but it gets 7a in rockfax and is 7a IMHO.

with Andy M, Nik
thebigfriendlymoose 01/Jun/12 Lead RP
with JohnM
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead dog
derico 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Think it was this one, most pumped I have been in ages!

with John Freeman
LisaA 03/Sep/11 Lead dog

Accidently used for warm up

with Ed, Alistair
GPN 07/Aug/11 Lead RP
jfreeman 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Nicholl
highrepute 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

2nd go

J.Wells 24/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Mark Tomlinson
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
gregoritos 18/Jun/11 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 16/Jun/11 Lead RP
Cragrat Rich 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

Steepness... First Redpoint attempt after a practise run. Hard start, hard second to last clip and a nice steep move off a pinch midway. Loving Kilnsey now!

Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
lukehunt 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
craig matheson 26/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead β
Richard Hall 30/Apr/11 Lead RP

Shouldn't have had to redpoint this route.

with Rupert Cross
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Sep/10 Lead RP
marky 12/Sep/10 Lead β

Trainng done before.

with John
nickmoulden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
marky 30/Aug/10 Lead β

2 laps for training after Private Practice attempts

with Gareth Scott
ian caton 21/Aug/10 Lead RP

2nd go. learning the kilnsey thing.

with Anna, Abi
Hidden 21/Aug/10 TR dog
Glenn Sutcliffe 16/Aug/10 -
with keefe
julesp 13/Aug/10 Lead dog

Clean to last bolt. Got leg on wrong side of rope, moment of panic and grabbed draw! Grr!

with Iain
julesp 12/Aug/10 TR dog


with Iain
Jack00 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
tom rookes ?/Aug/10 Lead
RD ?/Aug/10 Lead
Peterjuliandawson 28/Jul/10 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jkarran 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

Not the best choice of warm-up

with Aly
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun/10 TR dog
Stewart B 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Deboost, Dave Redpath
morganator 06/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Andrew James
jkarran 02/Jun/10 Lead RP

First uk-F7, very pleased. First RP attempt after a quick dog to warm up and work out the top sequence.

with Smith, Grant
GrantB 02/Jun/10 Lead
jkarran 25/May/10 TR dnf

3 quick goes to figure out the moves. Should go next visit. Too cold to go for a lead tonight.

with Smith, Grant
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead β
NDD 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Forgot to take clips had to hang around for ages at 2nd bolt and get them handed up on clip stick. Got really pumped a bad idea.

steve_biczyk 23/May/10 Lead rpt

Couple of laps

with Huw, Marc
middlevern 20/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/10 -
Phil79 30/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden 30/Apr/10 Lead dog
JM ??/2010 -
JM ??/2010 -
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead RP
with SteveOc & Foley
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/09 TR
Hidden 20/Sep/09 TR dog
marky 20/Sep/09 Lead β

Felt pumpy after working Urgent Action

with Sharon
Hidden 04/Sep/09 Lead O/S
andy gravestock 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S

sweet route n8ice and pully.

with allex
uptown 13/Aug/09 Lead β
with Toby Dunn
Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead
Alex Mason 04/Aug/09 Lead β

Wow, hard 7a+ i thought it felt hard 7a and only because i climbed it badly. get in. (also worked metal guru and i i waited to go for my rp it seeped at the start and i couldnt do the move anymore)

willackers 16/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Walker
dominic lee 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with neil foster
marcpontin ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
with huw
steve_biczyk 28/Jun/09 Lead β

Good juggy fun.

with Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin
lx 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S


with Neil Mawson
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead
robbo 22/Jun/09 Lead RP

Worked it out on a rope and ticked it first go. Two hard moves, one below third bolt and one further up off a big sidepull to gain good holds. Really good route

with Neil Mawson
Ally Baba 21/Jun/09 Lead β
with Dave R
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead
Richard Horn 24/May/08 Lead RP
bigie bob 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead RP
buzby78 14/May/08 Lead O/S
with Malc
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead β
keefe ??/2008 Lead O/S
ksjs 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S

pushing 7a+ and very very good - sustained physical climbing building to a pumpy finish, great!

with andy
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rachel Hassall
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead RP
joe larner 03/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Dave D
Tony Little 28/Jul/06 Lead RP
with Ed Brown
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
andy farnell ??/2005 Lead RP

Felt a lot more like 7a+ than 7a

with Ian Patterson
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Stone
Cassidy 05/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
Henners 01/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Neil Buzby
nige ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Steve Crowe 01/Mar/02 Lead O/S

This is 7a+

sadams 25/May/98 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
mikedelderfield 13/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Leon Laubscher, thebigfriendlymoose, owain86, James Oakes, Hidden
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set