Central Wall*** E4 6a
[best of trad V best of sport, 2 kb]A brilliant pitch with great moves and good rock. Slightly marred by the fact that it only goes half way up the wall before scuttling off leftwards. Start below the short hanging corner. Pull though the bulge onto the slab (usually a bit left of the corner). Climb to the roof then trend up leftwards to a peg. Make a hard move back right underneath the peg then step up to a ledge. Continue to a break then up past a thread to a short groove on the left. Climb up then step right and surge up to the breaks and traverse off leftwards to a tree. Pitch 2 goes up the groove above at 5a; Abseil off. © ROCKFAX
FA. Al Austin, B.Fuller (Aid) 1961. FFA. P.Livesey, J.Sheard 1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Good E4s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: best of trad V best of sport © the clamp
View all 3 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 82 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Felt tired from the off. First go up fell pulling onto the 'slab'. Had a breather and then got through the crux (hard) riding a wave of lactic acid. Got tunnel vision and clipped the thread from low down nearly falling in the process. Grabbed the thread and bailed. Know what I'm doing now so will go back and have another go for sure.
Duncan Campbell - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/14 with Dave Morse

Nick Clement - Lead - 27/Jul/14 with Paul Figg

Paul Figg - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Nick Cement

Shame it doesn't get climbed more often. Great route, if a little dusty, but well worth seeking out nonetheless
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Mark Almack

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13

Pinged off the start. Then fell off crux as flash pumped and due to communication issues couldn't get back down to the rest.
AJM - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/13 with Ally Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/13

I didn't enjoy it as much as the stars made out, probably due to the route being very dirty and a few loose bits...
markalmack - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13 with chris todd

andybirtwistle - 2013

uptown - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Nik Jennings

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

Hidden - 2011

should have warmed up and it would have felt a whole lot easier. great route though.
akhughes - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

Dan Mckinlay - Lead rpt - Aug/10

Great stuff. Tough crux, solid 6a, with gear quite low below you (ring on peg looks very flimsy now) but good rest soon after, and then steadier but still sustained climbing above. was told top section was very run out but there is some gear to be had.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10 with alex mason

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Arran Deakin

Hidden - May/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/09

Running with water, dirty and far harder than expected. Impressive lead by Toby. Again.
middlevern - 2nd dog - May/09 with Toby Dunn

Toby Dunn - Lead - 09/Apr/09 with Nick Verney

Boy - Apr/09 with Nez

Seymore Butt - 2009

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 2009 with Nathan Lawrence

Awesome route, good crux, then the rest is continuously sustained, just, just made made it hands peeled just as i grabbed the flimsy tree, near miss of a 40footer.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/08 with andy gravestock

Hidden - 2008

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

E4 6a my arse. The move past the peg felt solid 6b (must have missed something...) and another hard sction higher up with a big run-out to tthe break. More like E5 6b IMHO
andy farnell - Lead dog - 29/Aug/06 with whispering nic

Nails!
whispering nic - 2nd - 29/Aug/06 with andy farnell

felt like a long slog - Dave timed it; 1hr15mins apparently. Quality
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Dave and Alex

Hidden - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

nige - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/04 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/03

phil64 - 01/Apr/00

GeoffG - Lead - 17/Jun/99

Billg - 1999

With Si Taylor.
innes - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jul/98

Superb but easy.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1998 with Karen Ghiselli

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 09/Aug/97 with Simon Witcher

ellis - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/95

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1995

robyn1 - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

rob.grafton - 1995 with Ben, Bruce

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/94 with Steven Delderfield

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 13/Jul/94 with Robert Durran

Paul Figg - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/94

Dave Musgrove - 2nd rpt - 02/May/94 with Julian Cooper

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/93 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/93

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/93 with Neil McCallum

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - Feb/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 19/Jul/92 with Rupert Wyard

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/92 with Paul Tanton

Cruised it, what a classic. Powerful and technical.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/90

shark - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/90

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 05/Jun/90 with Bill Williamson

1 brief rest near the top after backing off the final run-out. Once I'd regained my composure it went easily next time - most annoyed with myself.
Dave Musgrove - Lead - 03/May/90 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - May/90

andy farnell - 2nd - 1990 with Graham Iles

keefe - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/89

David Smith - 2nd - 23/May/89 with john stanger

Hidden - 2nd - May/89

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 1989 with Sean Coffey

Hidden - 1989

Awkward section through the bottom bulge but OK after that.
Bob - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/88 with al phizacklea

Hidden - Jun/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Mike Owen - 05/Jun/85 with Simon King

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - Lead - Nov/84

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1982 with Roger Brookes, Mick Tolley

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980 with Martin Veale

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Bloke on a Rope, theomoore, mike mo, Justin T, jimmyjinxter, James Oakes, ian caton

Voting
Total votes cast 95
hard E50 of 33
E50 of 33
easy E52 of 33
hard E43 of 33
E425 of 33
easy E43 of 33
hard E30 of 33
E30 of 33
easy E30 of 33
hard 6b0 of 32
6b0 of 32
easy 6b2 of 32
hard 6a5 of 32
6a21 of 32
easy 6a4 of 32
hard 5c0 of 32
5c0 of 32
easy 5c0 of 32
3 Stars27 of 30
2 Stars1 of 30
1 Star2 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf