UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic historical product. “I decided to put three or four holds in a line on the top pitch which made it exactly the same grade as the rest of the route.” - Pete Livesey, OTE 35.
1) 6a, 30m. Start up The Diedre then traverse left to a short leftward-facing corner. Climb up this then trend left to an open groove and easy ground. Belay on the ledge on the right.
2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to a bush in the roof, step left into the scoop (peg may be missing). Follow the scoop past Pete Livesey's infamous created holds to the upper break. Swing left for 3m then pull up another scoop to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Livesey, J.Lawrence 1976.

Ticklists

Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E5 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
GDes 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Bush grown back with a vengance. A bit of a scrap to find the thread and holds, but not too much of a prob. Thread in very good nick. Where did the peg used to be? just before the crux moves leaving the top of the scopp? bomber nuts there, so no need to replace it. Amazing route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bush grown back with a vengance. A bit of a scrap to find the thread and holds, but not too much of a prob. Thread in very good nick. Where did the peg used to be? just before the crux moves leaving the top of the scopp? bomber nuts there, so no need to replace it. Amazing route.
GeoffG 8 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2. Removed as much of the bush as I could and replaced the thread just above it. Feels much safer now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2. Removed as much of the bush as I could and replaced the thread just above it. Feels much safer now.
Hidden1 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch only
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch only

Logged Ascents

40 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Kilnsey

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 8 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grand Master Flash

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Scugdale - Barker's Crags)

Loading Notifications...