RIP HVS 4c
40m, 2 pitches. Climb starts 20ft East of Koo Koo. Pitch 1 - 4c: Climb the large right-trending crack on good undercuts to a bulge. Pass this on good holds and continue to the roof. Traverse right under the frightening block and climb up to the break. Difficult nuts at the belay. Pitch 2: Gain the face above the break and climb the corner cracks to a roof. Move left via a ledge on the arete and climb a second set of cracks to a second roof. Move right to the original crack and exit. WARNING: Route is called RIP for a good reason. A lot of loose blocks, especially at the top-out. Tread carefully and test everything before loading it.
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Dec/13

Much better than the name suggests! Direct finish.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/12 with AlexD

very pleasant
AlexD - 2nd - 30/Oct/12 with Ed

Been up this as an HVS - this time as an E1. Final corner quite tricky, I thought.
clipskipper - 2nd β - 25/Feb/12 with Matt Perks

Big fall circa 10 metres from the traverse after the steep bulge on pitch 1. Was reseating a poor wire and next thing I'm falling, so my foothold must have collapsed. Belayer lifted a couple of metres into the air. What do I do now, he says. Gently lower yourself to the ground and then gently lower me please, I asked looking up at the single wire that had held my fall (another had ripped [not extended enough] and the remainder were too low). After the excitement, I tried to reclimb, but wanted to get some more gear in on the bulge and was getting pumped and was more nervy. Day was getting late, so removed lower gear and pulled ropes, and went off to climb Kittiwake instead to escape. There's a number 7 wire and quickdraw left in the route for grabs.
Alaric - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/10 with Ed

Loose in some places, but good holds and plenty of gear. Care needed on the top out.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Davey Boy

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Simon

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 15/Mar/87 with Tim Dunsby

Nigel Coe - 28/Apr/79 with Frank Farrell

Falko - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/78 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
john_mx
Voting
Total votes cast 4
hard E10 of 1
E10 of 1
easy E10 of 1
hard HVS0 of 1
HVS1 of 1
easy HVS0 of 1
hard VS0 of 1
VS0 of 1
easy VS0 of 1
hard 5a0 of 1
5a0 of 1
easy 5a0 of 1
hard 4c0 of 1
4c1 of 1
easy 4c0 of 1
hard 4b0 of 1
4b0 of 1
easy 4b0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars0 of 2
1 Star2 of 2
0 Stars0 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
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