200m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 80m. A rarely formed route but one which is well worth seeking out in good conditions. The icefall is impossible to spot until you are almost directly underneath it ,but it is easy enough to locate, being immediately left of the …peron des Cosmiques in a deep-cut chimney. This is a difficult route to find in condition but a superb outing if you do manage it. It is south facing hence you would expect it to be in condition in the depths of winter and, whilst it sometimes is, May is often when the best ice is found. Climb the snow slope which is used to reach the …peron des Cosmiques to where it narrows to a gully.
Follow the gully for 20m to a belay on the right. In thin conditions (as pictured) this can involve some mixed moves up to Scottish III.
1) 4. Head directly up the ice/mixed ground above the belay and then step right to a belay out of the gully on the right.
2) 4+. Climb the steep icy wall above which finishes with a tenuous low-angled slabby section and then straightforward snow plodding to another belay on the right wall.
3) 5. Climb the 10m vertical ice step above to reach an easy snow gully which leads up to join the ArÍte des Cosmiques just before its abseils. If the 10m ice step is short on ice, it becomes an exercise in thrutching around a chockstone, which will provide even the strongest teams with a challenge.
Descent - Continue along the ArÍte des Cosmiques to the Aiguille du Midi lift station. It is possible to abseil the route and walk back but this takes as long as the ever enjoyable Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Steep gully to the left of the Eperon des Cosmiques, Rated III 5 according to Daminlano grading system.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 30/Sep -
Hidden 25/Apr 2nd
sam_cash 07/Apr 2nd O/S
C Mclean 07/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Hannes
Hidden 22/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 22/Dec/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22/Dec/14 Lead
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
fulton333 ?/May/14 AltLd
with Matt, naomi havercroft
Pete Houghton ?/Apr/14 TR

Clusterf*ck of crowds on the Cosmiques Arete and every other gulley was taken, so we did a bit of toproping on a very-thin Icefall. Great fun, but too hard for us. One for the future.

Hidden 06/Apr/13 AltLd
niallsash ?/Jan/13 -
Hidden ?/Jan/12 Lead
GraMc 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

south facing ice in july. get in!, faaaat but slight detached, awsome!

with flash
stratfol 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Just about caught the icefall in climbable condition as things warmed up for summer. First two pitches dry choss chutes, then two pitches of vertical ice, definitely melting but still good. Fun route!

with Niall Ewen
Petarghh 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Awesome, Awesome, AWESOME route ! tricky mixed steps lead to fantastic steep ice with some amazing bridge positions and lots of pump ! we felt it to be in the realms of scottish Technical 6 (possible overall grade at VI 6 for our particular conditions)

Jack Loftus 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch.

Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/11 -
GaryK 01/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Didn't look anything like the photo in Snow, Ice & Mixed, but had good fun anyway. The top chockstone was very entertaining in a scottish way. Very mixed, not much ice.

with John Wigg, Mark Charlton
GaryK 01/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Didn't look anything like the photo in Snow, Ice & Mixed, but had good fun anyway. The top chockstone was very entertaining in a scottish way. Very mixed, not much ice.

with John Wigg, Mark Charlton
Hidden ?/Feb/11 2nd dnf
Adam Booth 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 16/Jun/09 AltLd
nickdonohue ?/Oct/08 AltLd dnf

We were a bit optimistic with this one! Did 2 pitches but hadn't properly formed so retreated.

with Jeff Ingman
Hidden 16/Apr/08 -
Rhys Macallister 11/Feb/08 AltLd
with Neil Carroll
Hidden ?/Jan/99 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
frost ?/Jul/91 2nd
with Stone
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