Isle of Skye > Sgurr Sgumain >
 
The Klondyker* HVS 5a

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[Unknown climbers on The Klondyker, HVS; Sgumain West Buttress, 3 kb]135m, 5 pitches. A recommended route with some fine climbing. Start about 8m below the white blaze. 1. 30m 4b Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner left of the chimney on The Slant. Layback up the corner until it is possible to move right to a cracked slab which leads to a belay at the foot of a steep impressive wall. 2. 30m 5a Climb a small corner and cracks to gain the left side of a large sloping ledge about halfway up the steep wall. Gain the indistinct crack-line above from a perched block on the left, then follow this and the wider crack above through an overhang to a large ledge on Sunset Slab. An improbable pitch for the grade. 3. 20m 4a Climb the groove above the peg until an easy left traverse leads to a ledge at the foot of an obvious groove with a yellow left wall. 4. 30m 4c Move left around an edge into an exposed position and climb up left past an overhang to a basalt recess. Climb to a small well positioned ledge, then up a short wall to belay. 5. 25m Move right and finish up the painfully rough arete. Variation: Yellow Walls Finish 60m HVS 5a ** (2005) Instead of moving left on pitch 4 take the obvious groove with a yellow left wall, breaking left at the top to reach a second yellow wall (30m 5a). Follow the yellow groove beneath this wall to a large ledge and easier ground (30m 4c). This pitch includes at least part of the Yellow Groove Continuation to Sunset Slab.
1988

Ticklists: Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Skye Rock.

Photo: Unknown climbers on The Klondyker, HVS; Sgumain West Buttress © Mike Lates
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

glad other people found the second pitch hard too....! a great route indeed.
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with ben wallace

Lead 2 and 4. Lucky to get the best pitches. Simply superb but E1, not HVS. The undercut move is hard. Superb 2nd pitch on lovely gabbro
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Colin Angus

Led P1, 3 & 5. P2 is probably worth E1 5b and is totally excellent. A great route, but getting back to the base of the route afterwards is a bit of a trek.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with James Oswald

topo in new skye guide unclear so we ended up starting on the slant, which was actually pretty tasty! felt p2 was pretty hard for HVS and i had to rest a couple of times but got up it in the end! amazing route
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd - 03/Jun/12 with AD

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/10

Led pitches 1, 3, and 5 (the layback corner, easy groove and exposed traverse). Thought the exposed rising traverse pitch was worth 5a!
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/10 with Ben Finley

Phil Jennings - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Rozzy

burto - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with the pimp

lead first, third and fourth pitch (HVS but easier than the second pitch that Calum lead. ace exposure.
Hertha - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Calum

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/09

Felt quite serious on crux pitch E1?
Captain Solo - AltLd - 30/May/09 with Mark

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
CM1992, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E14 of 8
hard HVS3 of 8
HVS1 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
hard VS0 of 8
VS0 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard 5b0 of 8
5b1 of 8
easy 5b3 of 8
hard 5a2 of 8
5a2 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
hard 4c0 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
3 Stars7 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star1 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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