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|Isle of Skye > Sgurr Sgumain >|
|Sunset Slab|| HS 4b|
<< The Klondyker
The Slant >>
|160m, 5 pitches. Scramble to a belay below the white blaze.
1. 45m Follow The Slant, to the base of a steep crack on the right wall.
2. 10m Climb the steep crack
3. 45m Make a long easy traverse right to foot of deep-cut crack.
4. 30m Climb the steep, strenuous crack.
5. 30m Continue up the crack to a junction with West Trap Route. Follow this for 45m.
Variation: Direct Exit 65m Hard Severe * (1958)
Break off original route 10m along the easy traverse on pitch 3.
1. 10m Climb a groove to a corner below an overhanging crack.
2. 10m Climb the wall on the left of the crack then traverse back across the crack to a shelf and flake belay.
3. 10m Climb the overhanging crack (8m) to good finishing holds.
4. 35m A short crack now leads to easier climbing diagonally to the middle of the buttress. Join the easy finish of West Trap Route to finish.
Variation: Direct Exit-Yellow Groove Continuation 65m Hard Severe * (1964)
Gains the upper yellow groove to give a more continuous finish.
4. 15m Climb a slab, then round a corner, climb a steep groove (piton) and move left beneath an overhang to a stance and belays below a big corner with vertical, yellow tinted left wall.
5. 12m Climb rightwards to a stance and spike belays on the arete.
6. 30m Climb the arete until, beneath the top, move rightwards for 6m until a slab can be climbed to a scree ledge beneath another corner; belay.
7. 8m Climb the corner to reach easy scrambling.
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 23/May/12 with jon
jsrous - May/12 with Pete L
climbed as 'sunset slab & yellow groove' as described in latter guide. lot of loose stuff at the top of the final pitch, which my toe was unfortunate enough to sample at high velocity from the previous belay.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Ferdia
mctinkno - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Andy
colinthrelfall - 2010
Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/03
Sunset Slab& yellow Grove VS 4c
Yourlead - AltLd - 15/Sep/02 with Raymond Simpson
Hidden - 1995
johnkeith - 1980
David Smith - Lead - Aug/70 with dick Colquith