42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.
2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
philhilo 10/Aug Lead

Did it as one pitch using Carnage Left Hand start.

with Back rope solo
andrew sandercock 22/Jun AltLd O/S

Linked first two pitches of carnage LH to the ledge, Chris led top pitch. Both used peg for aid. Loads of fun. Absolutely amazing route - LH start seems a good combo considering how minging the original start looks.

Hidden 22/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May AltLd
JRJones 29/May AltLd dog

P1 lead clean P2 second clean, hard. couple of rests on P3. interesting moves.

Will Hunt 22/May 2nd O/S

Started up Mulatto Wall and did the Blinds Finish. Went through the bulge using the tree, Dave used the peg.

Dave Warburton 22/May 2nd

Used peg & finished via Blinds Finish. Nice combination route of Mulatto then Carnage.

with John Hunt, Will Hunt
Hidden 22/May AltLd O/S
Rachel S 20/Apr AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Only top pitch was onsight, did the first two pitches of carnage LH to get to it.

with Cal
Misha 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

This time started up Carnage LH (did the original P1 a year ago, today it was wet but not something I'd do again anyway!). Led P1 and P2. Steep off the start but it's 5b if you take the time to figure it out. P2 is airy by mostly straightforward, just a short tricky bit at the end. Ed set off on P3, aiding off the obvious old peg through the bulge above the ledge. Looked like hard work. He made limited progress above and asked to check the description. Sure enough, turned out he was on the E5 Monkey not Funky. He lowered off and handed over to me. The correct line is only about three metres right of the belay tree. There is an old peg but it's hidden from the belay. It flexed a bit, which was disconcerting... Quickly gave up on trying to free it as it was desperadoes! Pulled on a crab through the peg while standing up in a sling, surprisingly pumpy but soon got onto jugs. Got a BD C4 000 up and left of the peg to protect, other than that there is no gear on the aid section. The headwall was very good but felt a bit unused to trad limestone as haven't done much of it this year!

with Ed
eduardo 10/Oct/15 2nd
with Misha
Nigel Bond 08/Oct/15 -
with Bern Hardman
pie_eater_pete 16/Aug/15 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Dave Rumney 27/Sep/14 AltLd

2nd alt 1st pitch up crack on R. Probably 5c past.peg. traverse across the crap rock was fortunately dry. Led top pitch, tricky at the top with the wind and rain.

with Dennis Wong
Misha 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf

The first pitch looks very dirty but it's actually worse! The original start is covered in a thick layer of crap and is probably wet for most of the year anyway. There's no gear till the ledge at 10 metres, the starting moves weren't obvious and the holds looked like they were about to pull off so decided to go for the discontinuous crack finish to the right. This proved to be nails going past the peg. The peg is old and flexes when pulled so has to be backed up but the gear is fiddly and far from bomber so got flashpumped hanging around placing three pieces. Had to downclimb to the ground for a shakeout (deja vu - the same thing happened the previous date at Crummackdale!). Back up, still not pushover, 5c/6a sequence. Easier above thankfully. A good golden offset in a crack at the ledge protects the sketchy gearless traverse to below the first tree. If clean it would probably be only 5a but felt a lot more precarious. Poor cam 2 in an undercut below the first tree (not really a tree, more of a collection of stuff growing out of the rock but good to get a sling round it from below! The climbing up to the second tree was fairly hard, more like 5c than 5b, with some damp holds, but at least there are decent wires. Monkey around the second tree (useful to get a sling round and grab hold of but then gets in the way as you go past, have to squeeze behind it!) then easy to the ledge. Zero star pitch, three start adventure! If you like that kind of thing... On the whole, in those conditions it felt like a hard E3 5c (possibly 6a going past the peg). Think most people these days sensibly do the Carnage LH start to get to the top pitch, which looks really good. Mike didn't manage the crux so had to ab for the gear off the tree - a bit of a faff as it's a sinuous line but was ok, glad I went off a sacrificial crab and prussic loop round the belay tree rather than simply passing the rope round the tree as there was loads of drag pulling the rope. So the second pitch is still to be done and I certainly won't be repeating the first - the LH route (which starts on the right!) is far more appealing. What a crag though, will definitely be back for both the trad and the sport.

with Mike H
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
scott quinn 22/Sep/13 AltLd
with Al
jacobjacob 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Free version, great top pitch, kind of grim bottom pitch. Might have been better if I'd REMEMBERED MY HARNESS!

The Grist 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did the Carnage left hand start as the bottom pitch was wet.

Paul Figg 15/Jun/13 AltLd
Nick Clement 15/Jun/13 AltLd
with Paul Figg
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
captain ??/2013 -
mugglewump 01/Sep/12 AltLd

direct finish, hard!

with me and bro
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -

Spent so long on it that the girls returned with icecream !!

with Mark Danson
Hidden ??/2012 -
WB 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

the bottom pitch was wet, dirty and a little bit frightening. The climbing was not very hard though. luckily.

with Guy
GuyM ?/Aug/11 -
with will
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd dog
markalmack 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jack00 15/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Needs more traffic as it's still very dirty and was wet in places. Bold.

with Rob Sandercock
rob.s22 15/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

did 2nd pitch with direct finish. bit sketchy off that peg doing the aid move.

with J.C
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
escalade ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
GuyM ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dave mann ??/2011 AltLd

Led top pitch used the point of aid.Tried to free it but bit too hot and I wanted to be home before midnight!

akhughes 25/Aug/10 2nd O/S
JulesV 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Chris the Tall 12/Jun/10 2nd

Mike led both pitches - very glad he did. Did the right hand start, which was tough enough. Struggled with the aid move, came off the mantle and again on the short trverse. Great positions but very hard for 5b !

with Mike R, Scott Titt
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
Ewan Russell 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

1st pitch, enjoyed it ralph didnt appreciate the block I narrowly missed him with.

with Ralph
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove Jnr 08/May/10 AltLd
with Nic Sellars
adi bryant 10/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Lee and Jake more than a bit spooked after the traverse

with Jake, Lee
Hidden ??/2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Compo 25/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Kev 1st pitch, me 2nd. Didn't fancy 1st pitch.

with Kev Faux
Compo 25/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Kev 1st pitch, me 2nd. Didn't fancy 1st pitch.

with Kev Faux
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ram MkiV 07/May/08 2nd O/S
with Al
Alex Mason 07/May/08 Lead O/S

lead top pitch, finished up flared jamming groove direct, E2 5c.

timbanton ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 26/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 26/Jul/07 AltLd
Boy ??/2006 -
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
pezzerrr 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 19/Aug/02 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Nick Beckett ??/2002 Lead
with Chiara Bonotto
TonyF ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Dave McDowel
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
craig matheson ??/1997 -
Hidden 21/Sep/96 AltLd
ste_d 25/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 25/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
adi bryant ?/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
with Clive
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/95 AltLd
phardman 10/Sep/95 Lead

Mantleshelf move felt hard

with Jon Bibby
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
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steve taylor ??/1995 -
AndySL ??/1995 2nd O/S
with Tim
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
richparry ??/1994 -
Roget 29/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Mick King 22/Aug/93 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Dave Musgrove 20/Mar/93 AltLd
with David
mattnuttall 18/Jul/92 Lead β

done before... always a great route

with Scott Abraham
Hidden 13/Jun/92 2nd rpt
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
michael burrows 24/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Campbell42 07/Jul/91 AltLd
with David Stott
jcw ??/1991 -
with Martin Harris
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead
mattnuttall 29/Aug/90 AltLd
with Alan Holden
rob.grafton 24/Jul/90 2nd
with Bruce
Andy Say 17/Jun/90 Lead
jfletcher 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Tim Newton
Andy Hyslop ?/Mar/90 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Mar/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Bullybones ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with .
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with .
allmag 23/Aug/89 Lead

Did right hand start very polished but good fun. Traversing out over the main wall exposure was a great experience. Had read about the 'mantleshelf' move in 'Hard Rock' so was psyched up but it went easily to a layaway / rockover. Fantastic finish to what has to be one of the best routes at the grade in the UK.

mikej 26/Jul/89 2nd
with Bill Turner
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1989 -
Bruce Kerr 18/Sep/88 Lead
with Mike Boyle
Dave Douglas 10/Sep/88 2nd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 23/Apr/88 Lead
with Bill Williamson
andy gittins ??/1988 -
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden 30/Aug/87 AltLd
Billg 02/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden ?/Apr/87 AltLd
neilh 13/Sep/86 Lead
with dave croker
MikeYouCanClimb 27/Jul/86 2nd
with Adam
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
scree ?/Oct/85 -
andybirtwistle 29/Sep/85 Lead
Bob 28/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
with K. Smith, J. Topping
Hidden 28/Sep/85 2nd rpt
Mike Owen 17/Mar/85 -
with Elaine Owen
Neil R 29/Apr/84 2nd O/S
with Ian
stp 09/Aug/83 Lead

Lead p2 with a point of aid!!!!

charlesmfrench 18/Apr/83 AltLd O/S

L,2.

Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Martin Bennett 27/Aug/82 -
with JD
andybirtwistle 22/May/82 2nd
with Ian Kyle
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Nic Robinson 05/Sep/81 Lead rpt
with Dave Oddy
Nic Robinson 05/Jul/81 Solo

Carnage P1..... then reverse Carnage LH P2.... then finish up Scorpio Direct.

Nic Robinson 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Nick Bond
Dave Musgrove 17/May/81 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Ian Jones ??/1981 Lead O/S

With the peg for aid of course.

with Mike Wright
Hidden 20/Jul/80 Lead
KRB 26/May/80 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 26/May/80 2nd O/S

Had intended to lead a pitch each,but as we were unpacking our gear at the base of the route we heard a strange `whistling` kind of `flapping in the wind` noise only to look up and witness some guy narrowly missing a ledge with his head during a `bungee` type 30ft headfirst fall!he was ok but it shook me up enough to welsh out of leading at all!Was a fantastic climb though,and the mantelshelf photo in Hard Rock is bang on for position!

PaulHermes ??/1980 -
uphillnow ?/Sep/79 AltLd

I did pitch 1. Since done on a number of occasions and done all pitches

with Al Bennett
Hidden ?/Jun/79 AltLd O/S
GeoffG ?/May/78 AltLd
Pedro50 26/Jun/77 Lead O/S
with Peter Douglas
Nic Robinson 22/May/77 AltLd O/S

I led pitch one.

with Paul Greenland
Hidden ?/Apr/76 AltLd
Marcus ??/1976 -
Hidden ?/Oct/75 AltLd
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Voting
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Votes cast 24
High 5c
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