Carnage*** E2 5b
[Carnage Area, 3 kb]42m, 2 pitches. A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed on the second pitch to make the route more balanced. Start left of a large tree and left of a long thin crack. 1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. If this pitch is dirty or wet start up the Carnage Left-hand start. The bold start of this pitch can be eliminated by starting on the right and climbing a thin crack and moving back left to the bulge above the bold section. 2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous ledge. Overcome this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain.

Photo: Carnage Area © ROCKFAX
View all 4 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 169 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

2nd alt 1st pitch up crack on R. Probably 5c past.peg. traverse across the crap rock was fortunately dry. Led top pitch, tricky at the top with the wind and rain.
Dave Rumney - AltLd - 27/Sep/14 with Dennis Wong

The first pitch looks very dirty but it's actually worse! The original start is covered in a thick layer of crap and is probably wet for most of the year anyway. There's no gear till the ledge at 10 metres, the starting moves weren't obvious and the holds looked like they were about to pull off so decided to go for the discontinuous crack finish to the right. This proved to be nails going past the peg. The peg is old and flexes when pulled so has to be backed up but the gear is fiddly and far from bomber so got flashpumped hanging around placing three pieces. Had to downclimb to the ground for a shakeout (deja vu - the same thing happened the previous date at Crummackdale!). Back up, still not pushover, 5c/6a sequence. Easier above thankfully. A good golden offset in a crack at the ledge protects the sketchy gearless traverse to below the first tree. If clean it would probably be only 5a but felt a lot more precarious. Poor cam 2 in an undercut below the first tree (not really a tree, more of a collection of stuff growing out of the rock but good to get a sling round it from below! The climbing up to the second tree was fairly hard, more like 5c than 5b, with some damp holds, but at least there are decent wires. Monkey around the second tree (useful to get a sling round and grab hold of but then gets in the way as you go past, have to squeeze behind it!) then easy to the ledge. Zero star pitch, three start adventure! If you like that kind of thing... On the whole, in those conditions it felt like a hard E3 5c (possibly 6a going past the peg). Think most people these days sensibly do the Carnage LH start to get to the top pitch, which looks really good. Mike didn't manage the crux so had to ab for the gear off the tree - a bit of a faff as it's a sinuous line but was ok, glad I went off a sacrificial crab and prussic loop round the belay tree rather than simply passing the rope round the tree as there was loads of drag pulling the rope. So the second pitch is still to be done and I certainly won't be repeating the first - the LH route (which starts on the right!) is far more appealing. What a crag though, will definitely be back for both the trad and the sport.
Misha - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/14 with Mike H

mike mo - 2014

James Thacker - 2014

scott quinn - AltLd - 22/Sep/13 with Al

Free version, great top pitch, kind of grim bottom pitch. Might have been better if I'd REMEMBERED MY HARNESS!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13

Did the Carnage left hand start as the bottom pitch was wet.
The Grist - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Jim Rogers

Paul Figg - AltLd - 15/Jun/13 with Nick Cement

Nick Clement - AltLd - 15/Jun/13 with Paul Figg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Simon Palmer

Hidden - Apr/13

captain - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

direct finish, hard!
mugglewump - AltLd - 01/Sep/12 with me and bro

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

JonG - 2012

Spent so long on it that the girls returned with icecream !!
Tony Kartawick - 2012 with Mark Danson

Hidden - 2012

the bottom pitch was wet, dirty and a little bit frightening. The climbing was not very hard though. luckily.
WB - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Guy

GuyM - Aug/11 with will

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/11

markalmack - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with gregg capon

Led first pitch. Needs more traffic as it's still very dirty and was wet in places. Bold.
Jack00 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Rob Sandercock

did 2nd pitch with direct finish. bit sketchy off that peg doing the aid move.
rob.s22 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/11 with J.C

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

escalade - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

GuyM - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Led top pitch used the point of aid.Tried to free it but bit too hot and I wanted to be home before midnight!
dave mann - AltLd - 2011

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/10

JulesV - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Mike led both pitches - very glad he did. Did the right hand start, which was tough enough. Struggled with the aid move, came off the mantle and again on the short trverse. Great positions but very hard for 5b !
Chris the Tall - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with Mike R, Scott

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/10

1st pitch, enjoyed it ralph didnt appreciate the block I narrowly missed him with.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Ralph

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/May/10

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 08/May/10 with Nic Sellars

Lee and Jake more than a bit spooked after the traverse
adi bryant - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/10 with Jake, Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Don't bother with original bold start. My third time. Vegetated and horrid. USe crack to the right.
ian caton - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with alex

Kev 1st pitch, me 2nd. Didn't fancy 1st pitch.
Compo - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Kev Faux

Kev 1st pitch, me 2nd. Didn't fancy 1st pitch.
Compo - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Kev Faux

Hidden - 2009

Ram MkiV - 2nd O/S - 07/May/08 with Al

lead top pitch, finished up flared jamming groove direct, E2 5c.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/May/08 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 26/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Boy - 2006

jim robertson - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 19/Aug/02 with Tim Dunsby

Nick Beckett - Lead - 2002 with Chiara Bonotto

phardman - 20/Jul/97

craig matheson - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/96

ste_d - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/96 with mik

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/96 with Steven Delderfield

adi bryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/96 with Clive

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Sep/95

Mantleshelf move felt hard
phardman - Lead - 10/Sep/95 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/95

Richard White - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

steve taylor - 1995

richparry - 1994

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/93 with jon

Mick King - Lead - 22/Aug/93 with Simon Walsh

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Mar/93 with David

done before... always a great route
mattnuttall - Lead β - 18/Jul/92 with Scott Abraham

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/92

whispering nic - May/92 with andy farnell

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1992 with bernie bradbury

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/91 with pete roberts

mattnuttall - AltLd - 29/Aug/90 with Alan Holden

rob.grafton - 2nd - 24/Jul/90 with Bruce

Andy Say - Lead - 17/Jun/90

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/90 with Tim Newton

Andy Hyslop - Mar/90

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Mar/90 with Andy Hyslop

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

bullybones - 1990

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1990 with Various

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1990 with Various

Did right hand start very polished but good fun. Traversing out over the main wall exposure was a great experience. Had read about the 'mantleshelf' move in 'Hard Rock' so was psyched up but it went easily to a layaway / rockover. Fantastic finish to what has to be one of the best routes at the grade in the UK.
allmag - Lead - 23/Aug/89

mikej - 2nd - 26/Jul/89 with Bill Turner

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/89

mark mcgowan01 - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 18/Sep/88 with Mike Boyle

Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/88 with Neil Shepherd

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 23/Apr/88 with Bill Williamson

andy gittins - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/87 with Dave Gregory

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/87

neilh - Lead - 13/Sep/86 with dave croker

MikeYouCanClimb - 2nd - 27/Jul/86 with Adam

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

scree - Oct/85

Bob - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/85 with K. Smith, J. Topping

Mike Owen - 17/Mar/85 with Elaine Owen

Neil R - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/84 with Ian

Lead p2 with a point of aid!!!!
stp - Lead - 09/Aug/83

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/83

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Nic Robinson - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/81 with Dave Oddy

Carnage P1..... then reverse Carnage LH P2.... then finish up Scorpio Direct.
Nic Robinson - Solo - 05/Jul/81

Nic Robinson - Lead - 20/Jun/81 with Nick Bond

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 17/May/81 with Kim Greenald

With the peg for aid of course.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1981 with Mike Wright

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/80

KRB - Lead O/S - 26/May/80 with Mike Bridges

Had intended to lead a pitch each,but as we were unpacking our gear at the base of the route we heard a strange `whistling` kind of `flapping in the wind` noise only to look up and witness some guy narrowly missing a ledge with his head during a `bungee` type 30ft headfirst fall!he was ok but it shook me up enough to welsh out of leading at all!Was a fantastic climb though,and the mantelshelf photo in Hard Rock is bang on for position!
mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 26/May/80 with Kevin Bridges

PaulHermes - 1980

I did pitch 1. Since done on a number of occasions and done all pitches
David Smith - AltLd - Sep/79 with Al Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/79

GeoffG - AltLd - May/78

Pedro50 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/77 with Peter Douglas

I led pitch one.
Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 22/May/77 with Paul Greenland

ian caton - AltLd - Apr/76 with dave roberts

Marcus - 1976

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/75

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
prcleary, hutchay, Graham Booth, Justin T, Owen W-G, Hinchrn, UnkArl, Garson, Just Another Dave, sinbad, Birdo, tobydunford, andymoin, beegsyboy, climber130887

Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E30 of 19
E30 of 19
easy E30 of 19
hard E29 of 19
E28 of 19
easy E22 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard 5c0 of 19
5c0 of 19
easy 5c5 of 19
hard 5b5 of 19
5b9 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
hard 5a0 of 19
5a0 of 19
easy 5a0 of 19
3 Stars15 of 18
2 Stars2 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars1 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf