North Yorkshire > Malham Cove >
 
Carnage*** E2 5b

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[Climber on top pitch of Carnage, Malham, 3 kb]42m, 2 pitches. A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed on the second pitch to make the route more balanced. Start left of a large tree and left of a long thin crack. 1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. If this pitch is dirty or wet start up the Carnage Left-hand start. The bold start of this pitch can be eliminated by starting on the right and climbing a thin crack and moving back left to the bulge above the bold section. 2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous ledge. Overcome this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain.

Photo: Climber on top pitch of Carnage, Malham © ChrisJD
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 166 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

mike mo - 2014

scott quinn - AltLd - 22/Sep/13 with Al

Free version, great top pitch, kind of grim bottom pitch. Might have been better if I'd REMEMBERED MY HARNESS!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13

Did the Carnage left hand start as the bottom pitch was wet.
The Grist - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Jim Rogers

Paul Figg - AltLd - 15/Jun/13 with Nick Cement

Nick Clement - AltLd - 15/Jun/13 with Paul Figg

1st pitch was dirty and slightly unpleasant. 2nd pitch was superb.
Ally Smith - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with El Bailos

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Simon Palmer

Hidden - Apr/13

captain - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

direct finish, hard!
mugglewump - AltLd - 01/Sep/12 with me and bro

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

JonG - 2012

Spent so long on it that the girls returned with icecream !!
Tony Kartawick - 2012 with Mark Danson

Hidden - 2012

the bottom pitch was wet, dirty and a little bit frightening. The climbing was not very hard though. luckily.
WB - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Guy

GuyM - Aug/11 with will

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/11

markalmack - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with gregg capon

Led first pitch. Needs more traffic as it's still very dirty and was wet in places. Bold.
Jack00 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Rob Sandercock

did 2nd pitch with direct finish. bit sketchy off that peg doing the aid move.
rob.s22 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/11 with J.C

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

escalade - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

GuyM - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Led top pitch used the point of aid.Tried to free it but bit too hot and I wanted to be home before midnight!
dave mann - AltLd - 2011

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/10

JulesV - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Mike led both pitches - very glad he did. Did the right hand start, which was tough enough. Struggled with the aid move, came off the mantle and again on the short trverse. Great positions but very hard for 5b !
Chris the Tall - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with Mike R, Scott

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/10

1st pitch, enjoyed it ralph didnt appreciate the block I narrowly missed him with.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Ralph

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/May/10

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 08/May/10 with Nic Sellars

Lee and Jake more than a bit spooked after the traverse
adi bryant - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/10 with Jake, Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Don't bother with original bold start. My third time. Vegetated and horrid. USe crack to the right.
ian caton - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with alex

Kev 1st pitch, me 2nd. Didn't fancy 1st pitch.
Compo - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Kev Faux

Kev 1st pitch, me 2nd. Didn't fancy 1st pitch.
Compo - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Kev Faux

Hidden - 2009

Ram MkiV - 2nd O/S - 07/May/08 with Al

lead top pitch, finished up flared jamming groove direct, E2 5c.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/May/08 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 26/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Boy - 2006

jim robertson - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 19/Aug/02 with Tim Dunsby

Nick Beckett - Lead - 2002 with Chiara Bonotto

phardman - 20/Jul/97

craig matheson - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/96

ste_d - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/96 with mik

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/96 with Steven Delderfield

adi bryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/96 with Clive

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Sep/95

Mantleshelf move felt hard
phardman - Lead - 10/Sep/95 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/95

Richard White - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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steve taylor - 1995

richparry - 1994

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/93 with jon

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Mar/93 with David

done before... always a great route
mattnuttall - Lead β - 18/Jul/92 with Scott Abraham

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/92

whispering nic - May/92 with andy farnell

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1992 with bernie bradbury

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/91 with pete roberts

mattnuttall - AltLd - 29/Aug/90 with Alan Holden

rob.grafton - 2nd - 24/Jul/90 with Bruce

Andy Say - Lead - 17/Jun/90

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/90 with Tim Newton

Andy Hyslop - Mar/90

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Mar/90 with Andy Hyslop

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

bullybones - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Did right hand start very polished but good fun. Traversing out over the main wall exposure was a great experience. Had read about the 'mantleshelf' move in 'Hard Rock' so was psyched up but it went easily to a layaway / rockover. Fantastic finish to what has to be one of the best routes at the grade in the UK.
allmag - Lead - 23/Aug/89

mikej - 2nd - 26/Jul/89 with Bill Turner

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/89

mark mcgowan01 - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 18/Sep/88 with Mike Boyle

Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/88 with Neil Shepherd

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 23/Apr/88 with Bill Williamson

andy gittins - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/87 with Dave Gregory

cam1401 - AltLd - Apr/87 with Ronnie Bruce

neilh - Lead - 13/Sep/86 with dave croker

MikeYouCanClimb - 2nd - 27/Jul/86 with Adam

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

scree - Oct/85

Bob - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/85 with K. Smith, J. Topping

Mike Owen - 17/Mar/85 with Elaine Owen

Neil R - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/84 with Ian

Lead p2 with a point of aid!!!!
stp - Lead - 09/Aug/83

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/83

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Nic Robinson - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/81 with Dave Oddy

Carnage P1..... then reverse Carnage LH P2.... then finish up Scorpio Direct.
Nic Robinson - Solo - 05/Jul/81

Nic Robinson - Lead - 20/Jun/81 with Nick Bond

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 17/May/81 with Kim Greenald

With the peg for aid of course.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1981 with Mike Wright

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/80

KRB - Lead O/S - 26/May/80 with Mike Bridges

Had intended to lead a pitch each,but as we were unpacking our gear at the base of the route we heard a strange `whistling` kind of `flapping in the wind` noise only to look up and witness some guy narrowly missing a ledge with his head during a `bungee` type 30ft headfirst fall!he was ok but it shook me up enough to welsh out of leading at all!Was a fantastic climb though,and the mantelshelf photo in Hard Rock is bang on for position!
mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 26/May/80 with Kevin Bridges

PaulHermes - 1980

I did pitch 1. Since done on a number of occasions and done all pitches
David Smith - AltLd - Sep/79 with Al Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/79

GeoffG - AltLd - May/78

Pedro50 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/77 with Peter Douglas

I led pitch one.
Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 22/May/77 with Paul Greenland

ian caton - AltLd - Apr/76 with dave roberts

Hidden - 1976

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/75

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Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard E30 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E30 of 18
hard E28 of 18
E28 of 18
easy E22 of 18
hard E10 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c4 of 18
hard 5b5 of 18
5b9 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
hard 5a0 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars15 of 17
2 Stars1 of 17
1 Star0 of 17
0 Stars1 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 166 (0.6%)
Lead40 of 166 (24.1%)
Followed12 of 166 (7.2%)
Alt Leads33 of 166 (19.9%)
Unknown80 of 166 (48.2%)

'Climbed'118 of 166 (71.1%)
clean O/S41 of 166 (24.7%)
clean β1 of 166 (0.6%)
clean rpt3 of 166 (1.8%)
dogged1 of 166 (0.6%)
dnf2 of 166 (1.2%)