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|Lofoten > Presten >|
|Reisen|| n7+ |
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Korstoget / Reisen >>
|440m, 11 pitches. The Journey) A tremendous voyage of exploration up Prestenís imposing central section. The route offers technical climbing with superb rock throughout, but is poorly protected in several places. A double rack of cams (micro to large) is recommended plus a double rack and full range of wires. Begin a few metres to the right of the open groove of Ypperstepresten.
1) 5, 20m. Climb up a corner, over a roof, and up to a belay.
2) 5+, 50m. Head up and right following a curving finger-crack (the higher of a pair of near-parallel cracks) to a belay below the tall corner.
3) 6+, 30m. Climb up the corner to an awkward layback/chimney slot and belay halfway up the slot.
4) 6+, 55m. Chimney up the slot for 10m more, then make a serious traverse left for 20m before climbing up 20m to a belay just above the left end of the Big Roof.
5) 7+, 30m. Climb the groove until itís possible to traverse right 2m to some holds leading up to a block in the roof. Now traverse right, out along the block, on better holds (bold), then up to Storhylla - the big grassy ledge.
6) 6+, 40m. Head up and right on easy ground, then back left across a slab to a stance under a short, right-facing corner.
7) 6, 50m. Climb diagonally up left to the left side of an arch (serious), then climb up a crack to a good stance below a finger-crack.
8) 6+, 55m. Jam up the finger-crack to reach a long groove which gives great climbing to a belay.
9) 5+, 40m. Continue up the groove for 15m until it ends, then climb cracks to a stance below a right-facing corner - the Direkte-Utsteget of Vestpillaren.
10) 7, 40m. Climb the hard and sustained groove - a great pitch.
11) 6+, 30m. Continue up the corner past a hard bulge then head up easier ground to the top. © ROCKFAX|
This climb is in 1 logbook, and on no wishlists.
Superb route on beautiful granite. We'd heard it was desperate but really it's steady E4.
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/98 with Nick Ashton