|80m, 2 pitches. |
80m. (The Rasmus Express) In its day Lofoten’s hardest free climb, offering high quality technical climbing. Begin on the far right-hand side of the cliff in a gully below the overhanging wall. Belay in a corner next to a large flake.
1) 6+, 35m. Step up on the flake, bridge a couple of moves then pull left onto the wall. Traverse left for 6m, then head up an overhanging bulge on good holds to a hand-crack which leads to a semi-hanging belay in an uncomfortable niche.
2) 8-, 45m. Climb up the groove and undercut rightwards then move up a right-leaning corner. Step up and left to reach a vertical hand and finger-crack. Climb past a stubborn bush, then up easier cracks and grooves to the top (shared with Vår pump). © ROCKFAX