|165m, 6 pitches. 165m. The original route of the face. A fine and long expedition forcing its way up the left-hand side of the face. Start at a prominent pillar that leads towards a chimney formed by a large flake and a groove to its right.|
1) 6, 50m. Climb the pillar and then the chimney above before moving right and climbing the crack to a stance. Belay (large cam) below the continuation crack.
2) 5, 10m. Climb the crack then move left to a tree belay on the big ledge system. Move the belay rightwards to another tree.
3) 7-, 25m. Follow the groove left then straight up (3 pegs) to a small ledge. Undercut right and belay on cams above a flake.
4) 6+, 45m. Head up the curving orange groove then continue direct (passing to the left of an abseil station) up the groove to a stance by the great roof.
5) 7, 20m. Traverse right then make hard moves up the overhanging crack (big cams) before continuing more easily to a small stance. A spectacular and exposed pitch.
6) 3, 15m. Straightforward slab climbing leads to a tree at the top of the crag.
Descent - Abseil back down the line (15m, 45m, 40m, 50m) or walk off left - 20 mins. © ROCKFAX
Photo: pitch 2 © valecoastclimber