North Yorkshire > Gordale Scar >
 
Face Route*** E3 6a

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[Dan following Pitch 1, 2 kb]47m, 2 pitches. One of Yorkshire's classic E3s. Excellent moves and wild positions provide the fun. Much of the fixed gear is old but there is plenty of it and it can be backed-up. It can be done in one pitch. 1) 5c, 25m. Start up the corner which can often be damp and slippery and at its top move right on to the wall. Follow the line of old pegs and threads to the stance. 2) 6a, 15m. Move left and up to the roof. Pull round with difficulty, either direct, or slightly right, to easier ground above. Well protected. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Dan following Pitch 1 © akhughes
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 92 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Nick Clement - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Paul Figg

Paul Figg - 2nd - 05/Jul/14 with Nick Cement

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

nao led first pitch I followed through and led the second.
Jordan - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Naomi Buys

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/13

in 1, beautiful route if a bit wobbly to start. thank u
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Sara, Rik

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/13

There are a lot of wobbly holds, but I guess this adds to the fun. Done in a oner. Really enjoyed the first pitch.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/13 with chris todd

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Andy Cave

rikbattye - Jul/13 with Hannes B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13

captain - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Epic route. 2 pitches. Take 15 quick draws for doing in one. Went left past flake on crux overhang - felt like v hard 6a to me like this.
wolverine - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Matt Sparkes

Tough move to cross the final roof. Trick is to go right here, not left!
Mr Sparkle - 2nd dog - 26/May/12 with Mike Hayes

Top pitch is a bit of a let down. VS climbing to a 6alet move. First pitch is top draw.
akhughes - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11

Seconded first pitch. Led second.
Jack00 - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11 with Dan Miller

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

escalade - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Steve Crowe - Lead - 28/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

Awesome! Fixed gear is questionable in places but it's generally either backed up with natural gear or sufficiently plentiful as to not be a major worry. Move above final roof felt 6a to me going up just right of the pegs. Re previous comment it seems fairly contrived to insist the 'true' line is some eliminate direct up past the peg at that point particularly when you're then heading right to the tree anyhow. I'll take the guidebook description which says either way is just fine.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/09 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/09

Don't understand comments re top pitch. There is a bent peg but it does not obscure any holds! The way to climb the crux takes a little working out but once wired its two quick 6Aish moves, certainly nothing harder. A very fine & memorable outing especially if you climb the overhanging & half-dead yew tree to top out!
DSM - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Andy Gittins

Seconded Steve on this in 06. bottom pitch is absolutely brilliant, second pitch used to have good moves but the peg over the roof has bent and is now covering the crucial handhold so its 6b. or potentially cop-out right. Also on pitch 1 there is a heavy reliance on fixed gear which is getting poor so could be quite bold quite soon.
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/09 with Steve R

Seymore Butt - 2009

desperate top pitch
andy gittins - 2nd dog - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Oliver Wright - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/07 with Max

Greg Boswell - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/07

mgeek - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with greg boswell

GuyM - AltLd - 2007 with will

Date is a guess - lead top pitch.
Ally Smith - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Aly Robertson

WB - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Guy

Did it as 2 pitches but I led both.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06 with Alex

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/03

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/03

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - May/02 with Tweedley

craig matheson - 1998

ellis - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Muir Morton

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/96 with Jake

Rich Kirby - AltLd rpt - Jun/96 with Tim Bonner

ian caton - Lead O/S - Jul/95 with Andy

Cowflinger - AltLd - Jul/95 with Andy Sharp

superb
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/95 with Al Willoner

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/95

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1995 with Mike Rudden

robyn1 - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/94 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/94 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/93 with jon

lead 5c pitch
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead - 1993

rob.grafton - Lead - 07/Jul/92 with Bruce

Neil R - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/92 with Mark

Hidden - 1992

Hidden - Lead - May/91

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1991 with AM

rob.grafton - AltLd - 09/Sep/90 with Bruce

Apparently a line just to the left of the pegs after moving round the roof on pitch 1 is a bit easier. Found the 6a 'crux' quite easy - wide bridging, finger lock and heave.
allmag - Lead dog - 31/Jul/90

bullybones - 1990

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 28/Aug/89

Since lead Pitch 1
David Smith - 2nd - 21/May/89 with john stanger

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/May/89

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 1989 with Will (S. Williamson)

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 06/Nov/88 with Mike Boyle

I had a bad day. Frank led both pitches. I failed to lead p2.
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 26/Jun/88 with Frank Wilkinson

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 05/Jun/88 with Bill Williamson

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/87

Led the first serious pitch. The top pitch is a one move wonder.
Bob - AltLd - 23/Apr/87 with A Hyslop

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

sadams - AltLd - 12/Jul/86 with Kevin Edwards

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead O/S - 1986

Mike Owen - 12/May/85 with Phil Ralph

Lead pitch 2.
stp - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/83

Kosher
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with Chris Gore

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 15/May/82 with Chris Calow

With Andy from Keighley. Again on 31/7/82 and again on 13/8/94.
charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 01/May/82

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Apr/82

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1982

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
scott quinn, Hidden, Tom Keaveny, funsized, Hidden, Hidden, design crisis, Mattyk, Hidden, derekb, Hidden, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, PaulHermes, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard E40 of 25
E40 of 25
easy E40 of 25
hard E32 of 25
E322 of 25
easy E31 of 25
hard E20 of 25
E20 of 25
easy E20 of 25
hard 6b0 of 25
6b0 of 25
easy 6b1 of 25
hard 6a0 of 25
6a14 of 25
easy 6a8 of 25
hard 5c2 of 25
5c0 of 25
easy 5c0 of 25
3 Stars22 of 23
2 Stars1 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Lead29 of 92 (31.5%)
Followed9 of 92 (9.8%)
Alt Leads31 of 92 (33.7%)
Unknown23 of 92 (25.0%)

'Climbed'49 of 92 (53.3%)
clean O/S36 of 92 (39.1%)
clean rpt3 of 92 (3.3%)
dogged4 of 92 (4.3%)