UKC

60m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A bold expedition moving left out onto the walls of Face Route after a tottery first pitch. 1) 5b, 18m. Start at the arete on the right-hand side of the face and climb to an old peg. Continue up the pillar on poor rock to a belay on bolts and a stance between the two caves. 2) 5c, 12m. Move out left and up to a corner. Go left again to a small ramp and gear. Follow the ramp to the belay on Face Route. 3) 6a, 12m. Move left and up to the overhang above as for Face Route. Now traverse horizontally left for 5m - bold - before heading up to the break and a belay. 4) 5a, 8m. The groove above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1971.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E5 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Stainforth 1 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The tottery, "harrowing" first pitch, that Jerry Moffat didn't fancy leading was even more harrowing in 1971 when it was graded ordinary VS and had essentially no protection at all!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The tottery, "harrowing" first pitch, that Jerry Moffat didn't fancy leading was even more harrowing in 1971 when it was graded ordinary VS and had essentially no protection at all!

Logged Ascents

39 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gordale Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Overlap

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Kilnsey)

Loading Notifications...