Return Of The Stone** S 4b
[Return of the Stone(VS), Staffin Slips North, Isle of Skye, 1 kb]50m, 2 pitches. The 2nd pitch climbs the chimney behind the 2nd column. Go straight up from the 1st belay past a thread for best value & minimal greenery. keep a Rock ~#5 & #9 for the 2nd belay.

Photo: Return of the Stone(VS), Staffin Slips North, Isle of Skye © Tim Rees

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 15 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Dangerous, accident waiting to happen. I very narrowly avoided simultaneously tipping a very large block (0.5 cubic m) and a large flake onto the head of my second whilst they were sat at the ivy belay. The offending block is on your left hand when you are pulling up to gain the steps in the giant flack in the back wall of the dell. The loose flake is one you are tempted to pull on whilst making the same move. Hence the scary prospect of both hands being on rock that is pivoting towards you! Take care! Lots more loose rock on the exit onto the top. This place scarred the life out of me. I found Neist and Elgol much more enjoyable if nothing else because the rock there was really sound in comparison. This definitely felt like a VS as described in the 2012 SMC guidebook.
marcusdanger - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/13

The SMC Guidebook has this route graded at VS!
OERees - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12

Fun but far far too serious for severe. Top out is very worrying!
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Catrin Nichols

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/12

catrin289 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Liam Ingram

Crazy position!
Cardi - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Jon W

Wow, what a superb route. Definitively graded correctly in the guide book,(GL)a bit iffy on the exit to the belay at the top but good gear. tip - go straight up from the 1st belay!
MoWalker3 - 12/Apr/12 with Cormac

bpmclimb - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Clare & Sandy

This is a great route but extremely serious. I agree with the comments made below, VS seems more likely. Lots and lots of suspect rock on this, accident waiting to happen. Topping out is a nightmare, stood on loose boulders and pulling on grass. Despite that, I'd say it's a contender for the best chimney route I've ever done.
Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Ali

Ali H - 2nd - 02/Jun/10 with Glyn

Without a doubt the most dangerously undergraded climb I have ever come across. Severe 4a for the second pitch?!?!?! What?!!!!!! Definitely some 4c moves and a scary situation to be in given that the rock is loose in places and very lichenous. Beware!
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Sam Wood

S 4b- dangerously undergraded. It's VS 4c (top pitch- not 4a), IF you can bridge, back and foot, climb lichenous slippy frictionless loose and flaky rock, and at times near vertical grass and ivy. It gets a star for the novel pinnacle and excellent line, but looses 2 because of the rock, lichen and other issues. I was gripped out of my tiny little skull on this and stacked it with gear, and it's 4 grades below what i can lead normally! If you're just leading severe- beware!!! S.
tubby two - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Tinky

Led P2, totally awesome. The topo in Scottish Rock is slightly wrong, the route starts up a chimney by a short grassy ramp and just right of a 10ft leaning pillar at the base of the crag, and the "ominously-poised" flake is at 5, not 15 metres.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09 with victim of mathematics

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ian Archer
Voting
Total votes cast 22
hard HS1 of 7
HS0 of 7
easy HS5 of 7
hard S0 of 7
S1 of 7
easy S0 of 7
hard HVD0 of 7
HVD0 of 7
easy HVD0 of 7
hard 4c0 of 7
4c1 of 7
easy 4c4 of 7
hard 4b0 of 7
4b1 of 7
easy 4b0 of 7
hard 4a1 of 7
4a0 of 7
easy 4a0 of 7
3 Stars3 of 8
2 Stars3 of 8
1 Star2 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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