Isle of Skye > Staffin Slips >
Return Of The Stone** S 4b

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[Return of the Stone(VS), Staffin Slips North, Isle of Skye, 1 kb]50m, 2 pitches. The 2nd pitch climbs the chimney behind the 2nd column. Go straight up from the 1st belay past a thread for best value & minimal greenery. keep a Rock ~#5 & #9 for the 2nd belay.

Photo: Return of the Stone(VS), Staffin Slips North, Isle of Skye © Tim Rees
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This climb is in 14 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/13

The SMC Guidebook has this route graded at VS!
OERees - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12

Fun but far far too serious for severe. Top out is very worrying!
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Catrin Nichols

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/12

catrin289 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Liam Ingram

Crazy position!
Cardi - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Jon W

Wow, what a superb route. Definitively graded correctly in the guide book,(GL)a bit iffy on the exit to the belay at the top but good gear. tip - go straight up from the 1st belay!
MoWalker3 - 12/Apr/12 with Cormac

bpmclimb - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Clare & Sandy

This is a great route but extremely serious. I agree with the comments made below, VS seems more likely. Lots and lots of suspect rock on this, accident waiting to happen. Topping out is a nightmare, stood on loose boulders and pulling on grass. Despite that, I'd say it's a contender for the best chimney route I've ever done.
Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Ali

Ali H - 2nd - 02/Jun/10 with Glyn

Without a doubt the most dangerously undergraded climb I have ever come across. Severe 4a for the second pitch?!?!?! What?!!!!!! Definitely some 4c moves and a scary situation to be in given that the rock is loose in places and very lichenous. Beware!
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Sam Wood

S 4b- dangerously undergraded. It's VS 4c (top pitch- not 4a), IF you can bridge, back and foot, climb lichenous slippy frictionless loose and flaky rock, and at times near vertical grass and ivy. It gets a star for the novel pinnacle and excellent line, but looses 2 because of the rock, lichen and other issues. I was gripped out of my tiny little skull on this and stacked it with gear, and it's 4 grades below what i can lead normally! If you're just leading severe- beware!!! S.
tubby two - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Tinky

Led P2, totally awesome. The topo in Scottish Rock is slightly wrong, the route starts up a chimney by a short grassy ramp and just right of a 10ft leaning pillar at the base of the crag, and the "ominously-poised" flake is at 5, not 15 metres.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09 with victim of mathematics

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ian Archer

Total votes cast 21
hard HS1 of 7
HS0 of 7
easy HS5 of 7
hard S0 of 7
S1 of 7
easy S0 of 7
hard HVD0 of 7
HVD0 of 7
easy HVD0 of 7
hard 4c0 of 7
4c1 of 7
easy 4c4 of 7
hard 4b0 of 7
4b1 of 7
easy 4b0 of 7
hard 4a1 of 7
4a0 of 7
easy 4a0 of 7
3 Stars3 of 7
2 Stars2 of 7
1 Star2 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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