This climb is in 15 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Dangerous, accident waiting to happen. I very narrowly avoided simultaneously tipping a very large block (0.5 cubic m) and a large flake onto the head of my second whilst they were sat at the ivy belay. The offending block is on your left hand when you are pulling up to gain the steps in the giant flack in the back wall of the dell. The loose flake is one you are tempted to pull on whilst making the same move. Hence the scary prospect of both hands being on rock that is pivoting towards you! Take care!
Lots more loose rock on the exit onto the top.
This place scarred the life out of me. I found Neist and Elgol much more enjoyable if nothing else because the rock there was really sound in comparison.
This definitely felt like a VS as described in the 2012 SMC guidebook.
marcusdanger - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14
Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/13
The SMC Guidebook has this route graded at VS!
OERees - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12
Fun but far far too serious for severe. Top out is very worrying!
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Catrin Nichols
Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/12
catrin289 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Liam Ingram
Cardi - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Jon W
Wow, what a superb route. Definitively graded correctly in the guide book,(GL)a bit iffy on the exit to the belay at the top but good gear. tip - go straight up from the 1st belay!
MoWalker3 - 12/Apr/12 with Cormac
bpmclimb - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Clare & Sandy
This is a great route but extremely serious. I agree with the comments made below, VS seems more likely. Lots and lots of suspect rock on this, accident waiting to happen. Topping out is a nightmare, stood on loose boulders and pulling on grass. Despite that, I'd say it's a contender for the best chimney route I've ever done.
Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Ali
Ali H - 2nd - 02/Jun/10 with Glyn
Without a doubt the most dangerously undergraded climb I have ever come across. Severe 4a for the second pitch?!?!?! What?!!!!!! Definitely some 4c moves and a scary situation to be in given that the rock is loose in places and very lichenous. Beware!
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Sam Wood
S 4b- dangerously undergraded. It's VS 4c (top pitch- not 4a), IF you can bridge, back and foot, climb lichenous slippy frictionless loose and flaky rock, and at times near vertical grass and ivy. It gets a star for the novel pinnacle and excellent line, but looses 2 because of the rock, lichen and other issues. I was gripped out of my tiny little skull on this and stacked it with gear, and it's 4 grades below what i can lead normally! If you're just leading severe- beware!!!
tubby two - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Tinky
Led P2, totally awesome. The topo in Scottish Rock is slightly wrong, the route starts up a chimney by a short grassy ramp and just right of a 10ft leaning pillar at the base of the crag, and the "ominously-poised" flake is at 5, not 15 metres.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09 with crossdressingrodney
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09 with victim of mathematics
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