|800m, 28 pitches. |
Heinz Mariacher has long been considered one of the best climbers operating on the south face of the Marmolada. His route Tempi Moderni, meaning 'Modern Times' was by his own admission one of his crowning achievements. The route today is one of the most beautiful in the Marmolada Group and indeed the Alps. The climb is partially equipped but, given the extremely compact nature of the rock, protection is never as good as you might want it to be.
Start on the shattered rock to the left of a large yellow wall, at the base of an easy ramp leading right.
1) III, 80m. Follow a ledge from left to right to reach a gully. Follow this back left then traverse a ledge back right below a roof to reach a cracked black slab.
2) VII+, 25m. Climb a corner-crack then bear right at the first red peg. Move back left to reach a vertical crack and climb this with difficulty to a stance below a yellow roof.
3) VI, 40m. Climb a yellow and grey face to the left of the overhangs to reach a cracked corner. Climb this then continue direct, up more corners, moving slightly right to a belay below roofs.
4) IV+, 45m. Continue right onto a small pulpit then traverse right over a ledge and continue past an arete to a hidden belay.
5) VI, 45m. Climb a vertical face leftwards past various overhangs to reach a belay in a niche.
6) VI-, 35m. Traverse right, descending slightly, and move around the arete.
7) V+, 50m. Traverse right past a gully then climb a pillar on its right (alternatively climb the chimney to the right of this). At a peg, climb a slab diagonally right then follow a slanted chimney.
8) III, 45m. Move right from the chimney then continue up easier ground.
9) V+, 45m. Climb a crack left then follow a smooth slab back right to a stance by a niche.
10) VI+, 45m. From the belay niche, move left then continue around an arete. Continue left over a ledge for 4m to another niche with a possible belay. Climb a steep slab, with an initial bouldery move, then zig-zag up the steep face above, moving slightly right to reach a dark patch of rock. Climb delicately to the right of this, mantling onto a shelf with good cam placements. Continue with some tricky moves to the belay.
11) VI-, 40m. Climb a cracked corner leftwards, then move left when possible onto easier ground.
12) V, 40m. Follow a chimney-crack.
13) III, 45m. Climb direct up a short crack to reach featured rock on the left. Climb on the right side of a vague pillar then, where this ends, continue direct then diagonally right to reach the halfway ledge. Belay on a large spike or numerous pegs on the right, just beyond an arete. There are numerous possible bivvy spots on the large ledge.
14) VII, 40m. To the left of the arete are two corner-cracks. Climb the left-hand corner diagonally left to arrive below the overhangs. Climb dynamically to the right of the overhang. Continue diagonally right over easier ground to an arete. Move around this then climb it for 10m to belay in a niche on the right.
15) IV-, 60m. Do not follow the ramp on the left but instead traverse right to a shelf below slabs. From the ledge continue direct, then move left before continuing direct again to reach a cracked corner and a good belay thread.
16) V, 35m. Follow the crack leftwards to an uncomfortable stance.
17) V, 40m. Continue in the crack which forms the left side of the leaning pillar. Where this ends (possible belay) continue direct up a slab to a stance in a niche. Do not climb to the yellow roofs above the niches.
18) VI, 20m. Traverse left to another niche. Continue left then move diagonally left, crossing a steep slab and a crack surrounded by numerous small roofs. Climb the crack to an uncomfortable stance.
19) V-, 55m. Climb a crack above the belay. Where possible move left to an easier corner-crack and climb this to a ledge. From the right side of the ledge, climb a vague corner and then follow the continuation chimney to reach the base of a large niche. Belay on the edge of the ledge system.
20) IV+, 35m. Traverse right then climb diagonally right to a small ledge. Continue direct over compact slabs then move right to another ledge. Belay in the centre of the ledge.
21) V, 40m. Climb just right of the belay then continue direct up the steep slabs, with many lines possible. Belay in the middle of the slab on two threads.
22) V+, 40m. Climb direct to a ledge. On the right side of a ledge climb a ramp then move diagonally left up a challenging pocketed slab, aiming for a corner. Belay on pegs, ignoring the higher hanging belay 10m below a series of large yellow-black niches.
23) VI-, 35m. Don't climb to the higher belay (7a-7b variant) but instead move diagonally left over a delicate slab then climb direct to a belay in a hidden niche.
24) VI, 35m. Climb a slab diagonally left for 10m then continue direct then back right to a niche. Climb direct for 4m pulling through an overhang to reach an uncomfortable stance at the back of a corner.
25) VII-, 40m. Climb 3m right of the belay up a slab with good holds to reach the prominent roof. Climb this on its left side then continue up a slab to a niche (possible belay). From here continue direct then traverse right on pockets to a corner.
26) VI, 40m. Climb the short corner-crack and the subsequent slab, then overcome a bulge. Enter the continuation corner, initially easy but becoming harder, then exit left to reach a belay in a niche.
27) V+, 40m. Make a difficult 2m traverse left from the belay then climb direct up a pocketed slab. Continue on easier-angled slabs to reach a bulge. Move right around this, taking care to extend runners, then continue to a spike belay above the bulge.
28) II, 30m. Continue easily to the summit..
Descent - Take the cable car back to Malga Ciapela, or follow the normal route along the glacier on the north side down to Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi, then continue down the path to Passo Fedaia. This descent involves a potentially dangerous glacier crossing so beware of crevasses, particularly late in the season, and prepare accordingly. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Hard Trad Route on the Ombretta, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca, to the left of Vinatzer/Castiglioni.
Topo on PlanetMountain.com
H. Mariacher, L. Iovane 1982
Photo: Looking down the South Wall of Marmolada, on Tempi Moderni © Ged Desforges
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