Buhl Direct* VI+
300m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant direct alternative if the traverse of the Micheluzzi is particularly busy. Good consistent climbing though it does suffer from seepage after periods of heavy rain.
Start as for Big Micheluzzi.
1-4) As for Big Micheluzzi.
5) III, 15m. Move up 1m then traverse right along a big ledge under yellow rock for 6-7m to reach a cement ring under the yellow corner. Big Micheluzzi continues right here.
6) VI, 40m. Climb the yellow corner for 10m, then make a rising traverse right past a pillar. Climb slabs and a corner direct to a bolted stance.
7) V+, 40m. Ascend for 2m then traverse a narrow ledge right. Take care not to traverse too far. Climb a steep pocketed face rightwards to a small roof. Move right and climb a short crack to a stance by the corner.
8) V, 40m. Move left into the corner and follow this to a stance below an overhang.
9) VI+, 40m. Move right around the overhang and re-enter the corner. Climb this to the next stance below a bulge.
10) V-, 25m. Climb the bulge direct on good holds and continue more easily to the Chamois Terrace. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A direct Finish to the Micheluzzi climbing the big yellow diedre above the 90m traverse of the Micheluzzi.

Buhl, Steng 1949
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This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Great route only climbed to half way ledges (end of Buhl Variant?). E1 5b is probably fair for the two VI+ pitches but the first is almost entirely reliant on in situ pro and could easily step up to E2 if the pro was bad.
haydng - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Dave

Sort of meant to do the micheluzzi but ended up on this away from the crowds. Jamie led the hardest pitches the hardest I lead would have been UIAA 5
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Jamie Goodwin

Hidden - Jul/04

Total votes cast 3
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hard VI+0 of 0
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VI0 of 0
easy VI0 of 0
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