|300m, 10 pitches. A pleasant direct alternative if the traverse of the Micheluzzi is particularly busy. Good consistent climbing though it does suffer from seepage after periods of heavy rain.|
Start as for Big Micheluzzi.
1-4) As for Big Micheluzzi.
5) III, 15m. Move up 1m then traverse right along a big ledge under yellow rock for 6-7m to reach a cement ring under the yellow corner. Big Micheluzzi continues right here.
6) VI, 40m. Climb the yellow corner for 10m, then make a rising traverse right past a pillar. Climb slabs and a corner direct to a bolted stance.
7) V+, 40m. Ascend for 2m then traverse a narrow ledge right. Take care not to traverse too far. Climb a steep pocketed face rightwards to a small roof. Move right and climb a short crack to a stance by the corner.
8) V, 40m. Move left into the corner and follow this to a stance below an overhang.
9) VI+, 40m. Move right around the overhang and re-enter the corner. Climb this to the next stance below a bulge.
10) V-, 25m. Climb the bulge direct on good holds and continue more easily to the Chamois Terrace. © ROCKFAX
A direct Finish to the Micheluzzi climbing the big yellow diedre above the 90m traverse of the Micheluzzi.
Buhl, Steng 1949
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