Smokestack Lightening E1 5b
36m, 2 pitches. Start 5m left of Koo Koo on the East-facing wall. Steep first moves lead into a layback crack with good gear. Once out of this trend left up the cracks (dusty) to a large crack on the skyline (large chockstone) just above the break. Once through this belay on the ledge - (poor gear). 22m
From the belay head right across the face above the roof (peg) past a dubious block and into a corner. This section loose and poorly protected at first.
Exit up the corner. Single stake (10mm and rusty). 18m
The CC book gives it E1 but it felt a lot more exposed.
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Strenuous start; dusty cracks; poor gear on the belay; loose, unprotected second pitch; poor stake. What's not to like?
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Davey Boy

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 14/Sep/96 with Steve Taylor

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