UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

25m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well-positioned upper pitch.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb the slim groove to where it steepens at a flake-crack and follow this steeply to a ledge on the left. Continue to another ledge and a tree belay.
2) 5c, 10m. Traverse right to the corner that leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1974.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

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Logged Ascents

27 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Battering Ram

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)

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