Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
A good route, but it is poorly protected until you reach the letter box at two-thirds height. Start as for 1000 Tons... and follow this to the spike. Move up and right, past very poor gear, onto the wall to gain a prominent letter box - good small cams. Head up and slightly left to a bold finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
a very necky solo direct up from scare city, excellent climbing just no real gear!!
Tony Kay, Paul Pritchard 1988.
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(California)