Restricted Access
The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:
- No access to cliffs north of central gully.
- Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
- Take all litter home with you.
- There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.
As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.
Rockfax Description
A long left-to-right rising traverse of the Great Buttress taking in some of its best situations. Not shown on the topo.1) 7b, 16m. Start up Electric Warrior and when it eases, traverse right on an obvious line to belay on bolts in a scoop where the climbing on Android starts2) 7a, 14m. Climb up and rightwards on Mangoustine Scatouflange and continue right to join Super Dupont. Follow this to the roof and then traverse beneath it to reach the lower-off on Prime Evil. © Rockfax
FA. Tony Mitchell, Paul Ingham, Paul Cornforth 1986.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar
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Elysium
Grade: 7b ***
(St. Bees Head)