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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
Start 3m right of the ground-level block. A testing pitch that passes a cave entrance at mid-height. Good holds lead to the first high bolt. A tough finishing move and a holdless flowstone groove are the main problems encountered. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 28/Apr/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I failed to spot the crucial unchalked pocket on the crux and blew it. It is do-able if you're short, but it's tough for the grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I failed to spot the crucial unchalked pocket on the crux and blew it. It is do-able if you're short, but it's tough for the grade

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 39 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Turned to Stone

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Blacknor South)

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