Dorset > Blacknor North >
 
Grease Paint and Monkey Brains* 6a

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[A path often climbed..., 2 kb]18m. A long arete, well endowed with some good jugs leads to a ledge with two technical options above. The best is to use the flake on the right. © ROCKFAX
FA. Neil Burton 14/Oct/1996

Photo: A path often climbed... © badwabbit
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

RadekNowak - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14

philhaigh - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Shamina Kapadia

kenneM - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/13

cathymiller - Lead dog - 21/Sep/13 with Philippa

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Sep/13

Tough at the bulge.
Ian Bell - Lead dog - 21/Sep/13

goddamm7 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with sarah batson

98%monkey - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Bryoni Thiele, Lewis Wilson

bolts could be better placed! Found this very hard for the grade
Dawlish - Lead - 26/Jul/13 with new boots

New boots - 2nd - 26/Jul/13 with Kelvin

chriswood - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Kate Tarrant

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Kirsty Kerr

Some sketchy moves above ledges with bolts in porr position. Scared thre shit outta us!
George Copeman - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/12

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with jamie knight

Rupey - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12

badly bolted at top
ian caton - Lead dog - 30/Aug/12 with Abi

pawelx - Lead β - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/12

Jaime Mitchell - Lead dog - 26/May/12

Hidden - TR dog - 26/May/12

AlexD - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with Marti

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 19/May/12 with rich-subj

Radical-G - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Jonathan Emett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Brian H - Lead rpt - 13/May/12 with Kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

katiep - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12 with Tom Downes

Danny Crump - Lead - 22/Oct/11 with Sarah Pentelow

At the end of the day, got to the ledge and was too tired to continue.
gidmord - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/11 with Ben Harper

Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Gideon Mordecai

Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Rob Keough, Nic Dill

bobtheclimber - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

wi11 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Nat

robandian - Lead - Apr/11

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/10 with Lyndsay

Lyndsay Superclimber - Lead RP - 10/Oct/10 with Jonathan

Found it hard to make the reach on the move to the ledge - felt nails for 6a but I think its a reachy move. There seems to be a short person sequence - but I was too tall for it! - excuses, excuses, excuses!
givemetea - TR RP - 27/Sep/10 with Dyrla, Hannah Heywood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

did not quite enjoy that, found it a bit reachy
najki_2000 - TR dog - 30/Aug/10 with Chris Rose

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Vince - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with John Percy

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Apr/10

top was gopping - lowered off penultimate bolt
Quiddity - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/10 with Curious Yellow

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with John Vet

andy jennings - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Momber

Dave Rumney - Lead - 11/Oct/09 with Tanya Milner

chris sm - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

Interesting climbing due to rain and a handhold breaking away
TonyB - Lead dog - 03/Aug/09 with Anni

AnniH - 2nd - 03/Aug/09 with Tony B

Sophie Nunn - Lead - 31/Jul/09

mjeffery - Lead - 27/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

Didint like the prosepect of a fall onto the ledge, so i backed off...
Dan Lane - Lead dnf - 04/Jul/09 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

Backed off top move.
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 23/May/09 with SteveyM

The last move to get established on the upper stance was good fun; feeling exposed with the beckoning ledge below. . . .
SteveMyatt - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Mark Fairbank

feckin' windy that day
DeclanMurphy - TR - 04/May/09 with Francesco

Very enjoyable, though probably not the best warm up choice!
jeffsheard - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Sarah Davis

Not bad. Helps to be tall
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Tom Grant & Eva

Jane Weir - Lead - 17/Mar/09

Jane Weir - Lead - 17/Mar/09

thompson1000 - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

hrgcb - 2009 with Henry R-C

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/08

shoulders - Lead - 28/Sep/08 with dai

shoulders - Lead - 28/Sep/08 with dai

FrostyWebb - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Thea

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/08

Great climb, technical in places.
AndyM-LVB - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Richard Hopton

richardhopton - Lead - 30/Aug/08 with AndyM-LVB

richardhopton - Lead - 30/Aug/08 with AndyM-LVB

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/08

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08

trev_f - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with Mei

Found this quite bold?!
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Emily Stokes

lyneux - Lead β - 26/Apr/08 with Laurence Weil

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/08 with Gemma

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/08

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/08 with Kirsten

cold hands made crux a bit gay
nevostevo - TR dog - 18/Mar/08 with jimbo and bongo

omniscient_penguin - TR dog - 18/Mar/08 with Jimbo

hell of a choice for warm up route
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Aug/07

harryt - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/07 with Patrick

My First experience of sport climbing,, had a good weekend, thanks to Roger
markju - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Roger

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07

Dorset - 2nd - Apr/07

feilx - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Richard Horn

Hidden - 2007

Rob Kennard - 2007

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06 with Simon

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Ian

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06

Wilbur - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with Morgan

Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - May/06 with Wilbur

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Apr/06

tobydunford - Lead dog - 21/Apr/06 with Lisa Paling

trevor macalonan - Lead dog - 20/Mar/06 with Tim

timharrison - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/06 with Trevor Macalonan

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

jl - Lead - 29/Oct/05 with Julia

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/05 with mike doyle

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05 with Leo & Tony

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Mar/05

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Pete Phillips

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2005

chrisbevins - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/01

Mark A Humphries - Lead β - 03/Sep/01 with dean howard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/01

chris sm - Lead O/S - 2000 with Jon Stevens

Kevster - 1996

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ahaynes, Hidden, fleapitfan

Voting
Total votes cast 77
hard 6a+0 of 40
6a+0 of 40
easy 6a+7 of 40
hard 6a24 of 40
6a6 of 40
easy 6a3 of 40
hard 5c0 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c0 of 40
3 Stars0 of 37
2 Stars4 of 37
1 Star17 of 37
0 Stars15 of 37
Bag of .....1 of 37
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Style of ascent

Lead105 of 122 (86.1%)
Followed6 of 122 (4.9%)
Toproped6 of 122 (4.9%)
Unknown5 of 122 (4.1%)

'Climbed'32 of 122 (26.2%)
clean O/S54 of 122 (44.3%)
clean β5 of 122 (4.1%)
clean rpt8 of 122 (6.6%)
clean RP2 of 122 (1.6%)
dogged18 of 122 (14.8%)
dnf3 of 122 (2.5%)