Rockfax Description
A particularly good wall climb that, if caught in prime condition, warrants an extra star. Thin moves to a jug at the break are immediately followed by a stretchy move to get established on a stuck-on block. Some great flowstone finishes the pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 03/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

Hidden 06/Sep -
Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep Lead dog

Struggled in the first third, falling a couple of times in the same place. Once I'd sussed that it was straight to the top. Well worth revisiting to get clean.

Vespa63 02/Sep Lead RP
J1_TOV 02/Sep Lead RP

2nd try. Felt stiff to onsight but steady to RP.

innes 31/Aug Lead O/S
with Ruth
ArrMcC 23/Jul Lead RP

2nd RP attempt. An awesome route, well worth doing!

with Chloe Davidson
Chloe 23/Jul Lead RP

Very pleased to get this. First redpoint attempt. Love the moves and really cool flowstone to finish off.

with Arran
Hidden 05/Jul Lead O/S
Chloe 24/Jun TR dog

Done all the moves. Difficult to link. The route is very cool, I like the crimpy moves to get to the break, feet go really high.

with Arran
rjf106 21/Jun Lead O/S
with Angus
philhaigh 10/Jun Lead dog
with Ed Babs
spidermonkey09 07/Jun Lead O/S

Chuffed to onsight this, thin start but good holds to aim for. Lucky to do the move to the stuck block. Above there is beautiful 6a flowstone climbing, so good I lowered off and did it again!

leglesslizard 09/May Lead RP
najki_2000 06/Apr Lead RP

1st RP. Brilliant moves. Thought redpoint wasn't gonna happen as I couldn't crack the move from the side pull to the stuck on block until Chris pointed out on his try there was a little crease at the top of it.

with Chris Rose
chakrit 04/Apr Lead O/S

Amazing route and very COLD today!!!

with Gary
pezzerrr 22/Mar Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 22/Mar Lead dog

Fingers not feeling it.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Rupey 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Al and Gaz
etrillaud 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

did 2 tries. Managed all the move but couldn't link the crux move on my second attempt. Next time...

Hidden 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Aug/14 Lead dog

Fell at the final hurdle, in 30mph gales. Doh! A good one to come back to.

with Jonny
RadekNowak 26/Aug/14 Lead RP
Thinker01 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Second go, second session. Not nearly as hard as I thought the first time when I was nowhere near.

with Becster
philhaigh 20/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Fi Marlow, Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Natalie Haigh
Barry Kerslake 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Nat H, Phil Haigh, Mike G
Gem Minihan 15/Jul/14 TR dnf
with Nat Kemp, Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
James S 14/Jul/14 Lead dog

Already boxed by this point after an attempt on Englands Dreaming straight before, someone needed to climb it to get the draws down though! Nice climbing and one to come back for!

with jake, rose, tom p, geoff
AlexD 23/Jun/14 Lead RP

Sadistically bolted to give some strenny clips for shorties!

with Shamina, Vicky
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

First redpoint.

valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
stp 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Really nice route

with Lyndsey
Stuart William 14/May/14 Lead dog

Quick try at the end of the day, thought it Felly harder than England's Dreaming.

with Amy, Emily
Tomar 11/May/14 Lead RP

One of the best 7a in Portland. Did it putting clips today. I had a quick run on it a month ago

with Luigi
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
trev_f 09/Aug/13 Lead β
philhaigh 08/Aug/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 06/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Mimi, Rob Kennard
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead RP
lewiz 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Endre Joachim Mossige
RFWilkie 29/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd RP

maybe_si 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Jonesy_A 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Chevis
gibsond 27/May/13 Lead dog

Great route. Tired and dogged most of it, but could made all the individual moves so one to come back to when fresher.

Tommyads ??/2013 -

Much better than wolfgang, but also much harder.

ANC 14/Sep/12 Lead RP

First RP...prob the best route I've been on at Portland, loved the dynamic deadpoint from the crimp to the jug!

Dan_Carroll 18/Aug/12 Lead dog
rustaldo 19/Jul/12 Lead dog

pissed not to get this onsight, quite soft i felt, just have to suffer the pump till hands-off rest on top of the stuck on block.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
mountain_jay 23/Jun/12 2nd dog
Pippa 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
burto 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with ferdia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 29/May/12 Lead RP
with Dave Ripley
Rupey 29/May/12 TR dog
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead RP
Andrew Barker 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead RP
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead RP


Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
davidliu 24/Mar/12 Lead β
with Martin Cleaver, Alek Kumar
dan gibson 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with martin cleaver, sam read
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead RP
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 23/Sep/11 Lead RP
sportsten 06/Aug/11 Lead RP
with SwissMachine
Lloyders 24/Jul/11 Lead β
mark_wellin 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 24/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence
Sami Mandeel 23/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Spence
tom106 31/May/11 Lead RP
tobydunford 28/May/11 Lead dog
with Martyn Eales
pawelx 21/May/11 Lead RP

harder than other 2 7a's I've done (Medusa Falls, To wish the impossible).

Hidden 21/May/11 Lead RP
jh123 15/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
jw231 26/Apr/11 TR dog
ally1509 26/Apr/11 TR dnf
Bern ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Carlos, Nat
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
mlg678 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Mar/11 TR dog
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S

good route quite dirty top and start great middle carnt help but think i might have done the 7a+ next to this one it had a horrible chossy start

Dandan82 28/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ivan
3 Names ?/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead RP
brices 15/May/10 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Tris.w 25/Apr/10 Lead RP

tufa fun at the top

with daniel
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead dnf
rubben 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus O'Leary, Roland O'Leary
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Leeds 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
natalietanzer 16/Apr/10 Lead dog

fell going for the big stuck-on-hold undercling, got the hold but feet popped off... awesome route though...

with Duncan
nacnud 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal, Natalie Tanzer
Hidden 16/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Spacetourist ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead RP
Jus 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
steve_biczyk 19/Sep/09 Lead
with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
tedj234 04/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great route.

with Martino, Kate Campbell
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with huw
natalietanzer 31/Aug/09 Lead dog
chris sm 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Felt hard for F7a. Glad the clips were in!

with Pippa Froggatt
Ed Babs 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tobydunford 20/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Harry Martin
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd β
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
DrGav 11/Apr/09 TR dog

very crimpy to the jug. nice flowstone finish.

ASchwirtz 05/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Andrew Livingstone
nealh ??/2009 Lead
garburn 28/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Ivan
feilx 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
dmoir 27/Sep/08 Lead RP
Matt Bennett 10/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead RP
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
schof 14/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead RP
Docent 27/Jan/08 Lead dog
with sari
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
tobydunford 07/Aug/07 Lead dog
with Ben Smith
Richard Horn 03/Jun/07 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd
Stephen Roberts 04/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 TR RP
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead β
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead rpt
bronsonite 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
bigie bob 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 24/Jun/06 Lead dog

2 falls

eddieclimb ?/Apr/06 Lead RP
with Jason Parker
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Mark Kemball 31/May/05 TR
with Nick Cox, Tom Newberry
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 06/May/03 Lead RP
with Ben Merryfield
Jake Shaw ??/2003 Lead O/S
lx ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/01 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
John Southworth ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
shark ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris_woodsy, Ella7, GeneralFifi, AlexBush, mop449, josh Bamsey, Dan_F, Pete Dangerous, Hidden, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, givemetea, Hidden, Wayne.Gaudin, Owen W-G, celoisa
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 63
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set