Rockfax Description
A good and popular climb. A sustained pitch that contains an array of perplexing sequences split by good shakeouts. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

samparsons 15/May Lead RP

This was very cool to get done! Lovely climb and felt much easier this time around,

with Emmie
Kevster 01/May Lead O/S
Albachoss 01/May Lead RP

Great quality from the ground to the top

Dean177 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Ana_B
Mike_Hayes 30/Apr Lead


with Ben Meakin
mop449 07/Apr Lead β

So chuffed to flash this. Had to try really hard. Beta helped immensely.

afterthesend 02/Apr Lead β
henry.jeffreys 20/Mar Lead RP


raymondlinklater 20/Mar Lead RP
Owen Diba 20/Mar Lead RP
AlexD 12/Mar Lead G/U
with Brian
brian watson 12/Mar Lead O/S
with AlexD
Edward Kwong 12/Mar Lead RP

Thin start, though plenty of rests available higher up. Crux coming left round the roof with left heel. Clean 2nd go.

Matti Puckridge 12/Mar Lead

Not bad once you get past the start.

Martin Bagshaw 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight!!!

Katsmiff 01/Nov/15 TR dog

Enjoyable climb. More technical and foot worky than pumpy. Reckon this would be doable for the future.

littleluke 18/Oct/15 Lead RP
samparsons 08/Sep/15 Lead dog

Gutted i dropped it on the 2nd to last clip, that would have been a great onsight.

Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep/15 Lead dog

Placing the qd's on the way and was going well for the onsight until I hit the overhang. Once I'd worked through that I fell at the balancy bit above! Again it's worth revisiting to get clean...

Vespa63 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
ArrMcC 02/Aug/15 Lead RP

Pleased to get this, 4th RP? Mainly because I kept greasing of the start. Up to the third clip was really dusty and greasy but the rest was quality. Loving the gaston rock-over post crux. Great route.

with Chloe Davidson
Albachoss 06/Jul/15 TR dog
with Lisa, Dougie
dswansonlow 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd dog
philhaigh 10/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Ed Babs
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

On a roll at this point, found it harder than Is Vic There but good shakeouts throughout. Top rockover off the gaston hard work for the short. Top dirty which is a shame.

tsyrett 25/May/15 Lead dog

Greasy and dusty

tsyrett 25/May/15 TR RP
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead dog
ThomasB ?/May/15 Lead β


Nick Clement 14/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
chakrit 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Gary
TonyB 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Anni
keithpeck 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Apr/15 Lead RP
tsyrett 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
Pete Scott 22/Mar/15 Lead β

Retro flash

chakrit 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
Rgswarren ?/Mar/15 Lead dog
rjf106 ??/2015 Lead RP
with D. Angland, Angus
dobby 200 27/Oct/14 Lead RP

An awesome route. After falling off on the onsight attempt I went bolt to bolt and managed to get it on my first redpoint!

Benmay 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
LJC 25/Sep/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint.

with Ben May, Phill, George
Hidden 21/Sep/14 -
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Aug/14 Lead RP

Felt OK once the moves were dialled. Crux bolt is strangely placed. Good route.**

with Jonny
RadekNowak 26/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 15/Jun/14 Lead β

After watching Andy work out the crux.

tskelhon 14/Jun/14 Lead β
with Tom Jordan, John_Warner
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead dog

got to last bolt from top on lead burnt out messed up a couple sequences. gotta clean it up and work some moves

valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
neitsroth ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt

first go

with timothy ekins
sarpedon 25/May/14 Lead dog

Fell a couple of times, will be back for the redpoint.

Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
philhaigh 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead
neitsroth ??/2014 Lead dog

need to revisit

Linc ??/2014 Lead β
BenL 07/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Ryu
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 01/Sep/13 2nd dog
Mattlamb90 26/Aug/13 Lead dog

will rp next time

L.miura 18/Aug/13 Lead RP

My first 7a!

with Steve Craig
philhaigh 06/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Mimi, Rob Kennard
LucasHarazin 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
Rokmunky 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Sami Mandeel 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Si
adamjeffs 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ellis Butler-Barker 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with JackMac
JackMac 08/Jun/13 2nd dog

Not keen on the upper section & not my style. Can't be bothered to try and RP!

Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
RFWilkie 01/Jun/13 Lead RP

2 sessions.

JackMac 26/May/13 Lead dnf

Gave up after drawing blood! Really enjoyed the moves so will have to come back.

Rowena Clare 26/May/13 Lead dnf
gibsond 26/May/13 Lead dnf

Not a good attempt as came off before second bolt. Bottom is currently very dusty and dirty - needs a bit of traffic. In the end decided to bail after the second bolt.

Jonathan Emett 26/May/13 Lead dog

fell off crossing the roof then lost all psyche :(

with dan
lewiz 25/May/13 Lead O/S
adam 24 ?/May/13 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 28/Apr/13 TR

TR Flash. Nice climbing, but so cold! Had (mild) hotaches afterwards, was glad I wasn't leading.

Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Alan, Martin
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Alan, Martin
Julie Carroll 24/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Sol Fernandez
ASchwirtz 14/Apr/13 Lead RP
richardashe 14/Apr/13 Lead RP

Lovely moves and sequences starting from about a third up but I wasn't too keen on the start to it. Glad to have got it clean after a few tries.

Jack J Keogan 15/Mar/13 Lead dnf
with Doug Miller
Ed morris 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Good technical climbing. Really pleased to get this. A well balanced route.

with Ian
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead RP
Justin T 06/Oct/12 Lead β

Flash after crispo had been on it - seemed vaguely familiar in places wondered if I'd been on it before, possibly retro-flash.

Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead dog
brices 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with duma
gibsond 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Seemed to miss a hold for the move around the arete and beasted myself trying. Will have ago another time.

Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Thinker01 15/Sep/12 Lead dog

Hard to on sight....maybe next time....

with Ralph Wilkinson
Jon_Warner ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Seemed to have a really tricky move. Maybe I was doing it wrong!

with Jenni
Hidden 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead β
Evie 25/Jul/12 Lead β
with Jack
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 TR β
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead RP

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climb. Should have onsighted it, but fell halfway up trying to climb out of the roof, got my feet muddled and the wrong sequence.

burto 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
with ferdia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead β
paultaylor 08/Apr/12 Lead RP

1st RP

with Little John
dan ely 27/Mar/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
davidliu 24/Mar/12 Lead β
with Martin Cleaver, Alek Kumar
Perryman 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Vince 29/Aug/11 Lead RP
with John Percy
Vince 28/Aug/11 TR dog
with John Percy
timharrison 10/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Matt Carwardine
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
felixthelion 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, varied. Maybe a little soft

with Dan craig
Lloyders 24/Jul/11 Lead β
mark_wellin 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 -
Wayne.Gaudin 30/Jun/11 TR dog

Really nice climb. Try RP next time.

with Adrian Berry
Hidden 26/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
mikeyjbs 20/May/11 Lead RP
with Kris Mazurek
willbatho 08/May/11 Lead rpt
xiangoh ?/May/11 Lead β
J.Wells 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
JasTaplin 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Hawkscry ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S

first 7a onsite in months felt quite soft

Hidden 20/Feb/11 Lead RP
mlg678 19/Feb/11 Lead RP

this is never the same grade as sacred angel!! a lot harder but awesome route, 3 stars for me!

Spacetourist ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rosea
dav 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tom106 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 01/Aug/10 Lead RP

2nd go. Super route!

3 Names 04/Jul/10 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Dandan82 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Ian Broome 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
Wendy 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Coles
Hidden 24/Apr/10 TR dnf
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 18/Apr/10 Lead RP

2nd go. great route

with tomar
Leeds 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
natalietanzer 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
nacnud 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal, Natalie Tanzer
Hidden 16/Apr/10 TR
rubben 11/Apr/10 Lead RP

First route of the day...warmed-up bolt to bolt then sent it... GREAT climbing and really varied. For me, the crux was stamina and controlling pump...with the bottom 3 clips getting me the most. There are some great rests throughout the route though...really lovely climbing from going left over the bulge...brilliant!

MarkRyder 04/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead RP
givemetea 02/Oct/09 Lead RP

quick redpoint - one go on toprope then led it

Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead RP
steve_biczyk 19/Sep/09 Lead β

Flash after watching Marc doing the crux.

with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
Pete Scott 08/Sep/09 Lead RP
Owen W-G 06/Sep/09 Lead RP

Had 4 progressively worse RP attempts on the Sat but never got further than mucking up the move around the arete after 6th bolt due to overpump. A frustrating tick-free day. Could do all the moves in my sleep, went back and cruised it first RP on the Sunday after a decent warmup with much relief.

with Gav
tedj234 04/Sep/09 Lead RP

Fell on OS got next go.

with Martino, Kate Campbell
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with huw
chris sm 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Felt quite easy for 7a.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
celoisa 25/Jul/09 TR dog
with Nic
Ciro ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
Ed Babs 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 25/May/09 Lead RP
with Bungle
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dnf
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead β
hippo99 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with sam cox
sam_cox 22/Apr/09 Lead β
tobydunford 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jus 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
DrGav 11/Apr/09 TR dog

Felt tough but great sequence throughout. Should go back and lead.

with Wendy
Jeff25 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Quite sustained throughout with no one stoper move. Agree with comment below regarding conflicting bolts in the top 1/3rd. Stick slightly to the left which uses the same type of bolt. (the right hand line looks insanely hard)

with DrGav
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
SeanyC ?/Mar/09 Lead dog
with tim
vertigo 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Tiff
TiffTiff 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
garburn 28/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Ivan
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S

I didn't rate this as much as I thought I might - disliked the quality of the rock on the lower wall. The rock and the climbing got better higher up though.

with Chunk
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead RP

Fell off last year.

dmoir 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
schof 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
Morgan Woods 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A few conflicting bolts at top was a bit confusing but excellent route with a fairly stiff crux, strenuous groove and bulge.

with David S
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with neil foster, andy elliot
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Nov/07 TR dnf
Martin Krasnansky 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
guyblackwood 07/Apr/07 TR dog
with Mark Glaister
feilx 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 17/Mar/07 Lead RP
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
eddieclimb ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
lukea 31/Jan/06 Lead dog
with dan
lukea ?/Jan/06 Lead dog
with dan
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
lukea ?/Oct/05 Lead dog
with Joe WM
Jane Weir 12/May/05 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/04 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
just one more 07/Jun/03 Lead
with Svenn G
Jake Shaw ??/2003 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead RP
with Nigel Baker
lx ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/May/01 -
shoulders 08/Oct/00 Lead dog
with pete lewis
Hidden 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Mark Kemball 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Jason Lloyd
innes ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Nov/96 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Mike Owen 28/May/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
shark ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with John Codling
kristian ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1994 2nd

Approx date

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Matthew Davies, Tom courtiour, Hidden, samparsons, ArrMcC, Ellie Fuller, Hidden, Giles Davis, AlexBush, HakanT, josh Bamsey, Ben J, Pete Dangerous, Hidden, Hidden, strudles, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jameswhitty, Hidden, celoisa, nblackbeard, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 83
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set