Rockfax Description
A good and popular climb. A sustained pitch that contains an array of perplexing sequences split by good shakeouts. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

Martin Bagshaw 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight!!!

Katsmiff 01/Nov/15 TR dog

Enjoyable climb. More technical and foot worky than pumpy. Reckon this would be doable for the future.

littleluke 18/Oct/15 Lead RP
samparsons 08/Sep/15 Lead dog

Gutted i dropped it on the 2nd to last clip, that would have been a great onsight.

Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep/15 Lead dog

Placing the qd's on the way and was going well for the onsight until I hit the overhang. Once I'd worked through that I fell at the balancy bit above! Again it's worth revisiting to get clean...

Vespa63 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
ArrMcC 02/Aug/15 Lead RP

Pleased to get this, 4th RP? Up to the third clip was really dusty but the rest was quality. Absolutely loving the gaston rock-over post crux. Great route.

with Chloe Davidson
Albachoss 06/Jul/15 TR dog
with Lisa, Dougie
dswansonlow 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd dog
philhaigh 10/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Ed Babs
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

On a roll at this point, found it harder than Is Vic There but good shakeouts throughout. Top rockover off the gaston hard work for the short. Top dirty which is a shame.

tsyrett 25/May/15 Lead dog

Greasy and dusty

tsyrett 25/May/15 TR RP
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead dog
ThomasB ?/May/15 Lead β


Nick Clement 14/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
chakrit 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Gary
TonyB 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Anni
keithpeck 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
Javis 02/Apr/15 Lead RP
tsyrett 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
Pete Scott 22/Mar/15 Lead β

Retro flash

chakrit 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
Rgswarren ?/Mar/15 Lead dog
rjf106 ??/2015 Lead RP
with D. Angland, Angus
dobby 200 27/Oct/14 Lead RP

An awesome route. After falling off on the onsight attempt I went bolt to bolt and managed to get it on my first redpoint!

Benmay 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
LJC 25/Sep/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint.

with Ben May, Phill, George
Hidden 21/Sep/14 -
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Aug/14 Lead RP

Felt OK once the moves were dialled. Crux bolt is strangely placed. Good route.**

with Jonny
RadekNowak 26/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 15/Jun/14 Lead β

After watching Andy work out the crux.

tskelhon 14/Jun/14 Lead β
with Tom Jordan, John_Warner
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead dog

got to last bolt from top on lead burnt out messed up a couple sequences. gotta clean it up and work some moves

valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
neitsroth ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt

first go

with timothy ekins
sarpedon 25/May/14 Lead dog

Fell a couple of times, will be back for the redpoint.

Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
philhaigh 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead
neitsroth ??/2014 Lead dog

need to revisit

BenL 07/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Ryu
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 01/Sep/13 2nd dog
Mattlamb90 26/Aug/13 Lead dog

will rp next time

L.miura 18/Aug/13 Lead RP

My first 7a!

with Steve Craig
philhaigh 06/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Mimi, Rob Kennard
LucasHarazin 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
Rokmunky 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Sami Mandeel 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Si
adamjeffs 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ellis Butler-Barker 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with JackMac
JackMac 08/Jun/13 2nd dog

Not keen on the upper section & not my style. Can't be bothered to try and RP!

Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
RFWilkie 01/Jun/13 Lead RP

2 sessions.

AlexD 26/May/13 Lead dnf

couldn't clip 3rd bolt. v dusty.

with Darrell
JackMac 26/May/13 Lead dnf

Gave up after drawing blood! Really enjoyed the moves so will have to come back.

Rowena Clare 26/May/13 Lead dnf
gibsond 26/May/13 Lead dnf

Not a good attempt as came off before second bolt. Bottom is currently very dusty and dirty - needs a bit of traffic. In the end decided to bail after the second bolt.

Jonathan Emett 26/May/13 Lead dog

fell off crossing the roof then lost all psyche :(

with dan
lewiz 25/May/13 Lead O/S
adam 24 ?/May/13 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 28/Apr/13 TR

TR Flash. Nice climbing, but so cold! Had (mild) hotaches afterwards, was glad I wasn't leading.

Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Alan, Martin
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Alan, Martin
Julie Carroll 24/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Sol Fernandez
ASchwirtz 14/Apr/13 Lead RP
richardashe 14/Apr/13 Lead RP

Lovely moves and sequences starting from about a third up but I wasn't too keen on the start to it. Glad to have got it clean after a few tries.

Jack J Keogan 15/Mar/13 Lead dnf
with Doug Miller
Ed morris 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Good technical climbing. Really pleased to get this. A well balanced route.

with Ian
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead RP
Justin T 06/Oct/12 Lead β

Flash after crispo had been on it - seemed vaguely familiar in places wondered if I'd been on it before, possibly retro-flash.

Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead dog
brices 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with duma
gibsond 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Seemed to miss a hold for the move around the arete and beasted myself trying. Will have ago another time.

Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Thinker01 15/Sep/12 Lead dog

Hard to on sight....maybe next time....

with Ralph Wilkinson
Jon_Warner ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Seemed to have a really tricky move. Maybe I was doing it wrong!

with Jenni
Hidden 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead β
Evie 25/Jul/12 Lead β
with Jack
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 TR β
DJ Nelson 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with Paul Jackson
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead RP

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climb. Should have onsighted it, but fell halfway up trying to climb out of the roof, got my feet muddled and the wrong sequence.

burto 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
with ferdia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead β
paultaylor 08/Apr/12 Lead RP

1st RP

with Little John
dan ely 27/Mar/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
davidliu 24/Mar/12 Lead β
with Martin Cleaver, Alek Kumar
Perryman 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Vince 29/Aug/11 Lead RP
with John Percy
Vince 28/Aug/11 TR dog
with John Percy
timharrison 10/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Matt Carwardine
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
felixthelion 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, varied. Maybe a little soft

with Dan craig
Lloyders 24/Jul/11 Lead β
mark_wellin 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 -
Wayne.Gaudin 30/Jun/11 TR dog

Really nice climb. Try RP next time.

with Adrian Berry
Hidden 26/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
mikeyjbs 20/May/11 Lead RP
with Kris Mazurek
willbatho 08/May/11 Lead rpt
xiangoh ?/May/11 Lead β
J.Wells 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
JasTaplin 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Hawkscry ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S

first 7a onsite in months felt quite soft

Hidden 20/Feb/11 Lead RP
mlg678 19/Feb/11 Lead RP

this is never the same grade as sacred angel!! a lot harder but awesome route, 3 stars for me!

Spacetourist ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rosea
dav 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tom106 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 01/Aug/10 Lead RP

2nd go. Super route!

3 Names 04/Jul/10 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Dandan82 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Ian Broome 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
Wendy 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Coles
Hidden 24/Apr/10 TR dnf
ian caton 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
tommytuffa 18/Apr/10 Lead RP

2nd go. great route

with tomar
Leeds 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
natalietanzer 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
nacnud 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal, Natalie Tanzer
Hidden 16/Apr/10 TR
rubben 11/Apr/10 Lead RP

First route of the day...warmed-up bolt to bolt then sent it... GREAT climbing and really varied. For me, the crux was stamina and controlling pump...with the bottom 3 clips getting me the most. There are some great rests throughout the route though...really lovely climbing from going left over the bulge...brilliant!

MarkRyder 04/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead RP
givemetea 02/Oct/09 Lead RP

quick redpoint - one go on toprope then led it

Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead RP
steve_biczyk 19/Sep/09 Lead β

Flash after watching Marc doing the crux.

with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
Pete Scott 08/Sep/09 Lead RP
Owen W-G 06/Sep/09 Lead RP

Had 4 progressively worse RP attempts on the Sat but never got further than mucking up the move around the arete after 6th bolt due to overpump. A frustrating tick-free day. Could do all the moves in my sleep, went back and cruised it first RP on the Sunday after a decent warmup with much relief.

with Gav
tedj234 04/Sep/09 Lead RP

Fell on OS got next go.

with Martino, Kate Campbell
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with huw
chris sm 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Felt quite easy for 7a.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
celoisa 25/Jul/09 TR dog
with Nic
Ciro ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
Ed Babs 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 25/May/09 Lead RP
with Bungle
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dnf
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead β
hippo99 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with sam cox
sam_cox 22/Apr/09 Lead β
tobydunford 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jus 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
DrGav 11/Apr/09 TR dog

Felt tough but great sequence throughout. Should go back and lead.

with Wendy
Jeff25 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Quite sustained throughout with no one stoper move. Agree with comment below regarding conflicting bolts in the top 1/3rd. Stick slightly to the left which uses the same type of bolt. (the right hand line looks insanely hard)

with DrGav
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
SeanyC ?/Mar/09 Lead dog
with tim
vertigo 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Tiff
TiffTiff 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
garburn 28/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Ivan
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S

I didn't rate this as much as I thought I might - disliked the quality of the rock on the lower wall. The rock and the climbing got better higher up though.

with Chunk
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead RP

Fell off last year.

dmoir 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
schof 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
Morgan Woods 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A few conflicting bolts at top was a bit confusing but excellent route with a fairly stiff crux, strenuous groove and bulge.

with David S
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with neil foster, andy elliot
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Nov/07 TR dnf
Martin Krasnansky 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
guyblackwood 07/Apr/07 TR dog
with Mark Glaister
feilx 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 17/Mar/07 Lead RP
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
eddieclimb ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
lukea 31/Jan/06 Lead dog
with dan
lukea ?/Jan/06 Lead dog
with dan
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
lukea ?/Oct/05 Lead dog
with Joe WM
Jane Weir 12/May/05 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/04 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
just one more 07/Jun/03 Lead
with Svenn G
Jake Shaw ??/2003 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead RP
with Nigel Baker
lx ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/May/01 -
shoulders 08/Oct/00 Lead dog
with pete lewis
Hidden 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Mark Kemball 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Jason Lloyd
innes ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Nov/96 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Mike Owen 28/May/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
shark ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with John Codling
kristian ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1994 2nd

Approx date

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Mrduk, samparsons, ArrMcC, Ellie Fuller, Hidden, Giles Davis, AlexBush, HakanT, josh Bamsey, Monkeyboy, Pete Dangerous, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, strudles, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jameswhitty, Hidden, celoisa, nblackbeard, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 80
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set