Rockfax Description
An exciting pitch that is steady at the grade. Follow the gently leaning lower wall to a small ledge below the steep upper section. Pull through a bulge and up the wall with difficulty to a flowstone shelf and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 11/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep TR dog

All going well until the overhang, need a better sequence- remember the gaston into the first big hold above the roof next time...

lewiz 30/Aug Lead β

Had good beta. Soft.

R2B 30/Aug Lead dog

Fell off going over the roof. Close!

with Climb
Edward Kwong 30/Aug Lead O/S

Bottom section very loose. Steady first half to rest point. Crux over the roof requires hands in the correct sequence, nearly blew the on-sight because of this. Holds are very chalked up and much better than expected though, move through confidently. First on-sight 7a+ :D

Aaron.Clifford 09/Aug Lead O/S
with Renna Clifford
BenL 19/Jul Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 26/Jun Lead dog

Cannot wait to get back on this, found the top fine once you spot the holds, awesome finish too. A little too tired to get straight back on and then it tipped it down.

philhaigh 10/Jun 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
rjf106 ?/Jun Lead RP
Nick Clement 14/Apr AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
chakrit 04/Apr Lead O/S

Really great route

with Gary
Javis 02/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar Lead RP
TomJ 22/Mar Lead RP
pezzerrr 22/Mar Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 22/Mar Lead RP

1st RP - A good trade route with positive holds most of the way. Low in the grade.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny
Hidden 22/Mar Lead RP
Hidden 21/Mar Lead RP
Julie Carroll 13/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson
dan gibson 19/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead RP
with mandy clement
xiangoh ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tskelhon 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt

1st rp

TomJ 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
with TomS
valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
afrosam 25/May/14 Lead dog
Rupey 03/May/14 Lead dog
Barry Kerslake 03/May/14 Lead RP
with Vic Hau
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd RP
philhaigh 15/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mel Dodge
Jay81 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Tomar
Tomar 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Would have been able to flash this if I didn't decide to sketch out at the roof

Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
Tommyads ??/2014 -


sarpedon 07/Dec/13 Lead dog
RFWilkie 21/Sep/13 Lead RP

First Portland 7a+, 2 sessions. Seems fairly soft. Bottom is very friable but good top moves.

Ian Bell 21/Sep/13 TR dog

On someone elses rope. Tough finish through the roof, rest OK ish.

philhaigh 08/Aug/13 2nd RP
maybe_si 14/Jun/13 Lead RP
tiffanykate12 14/Jun/13 TR dog

Hardest climb I've attempted - worked the moves, just need more fitness to stop and read the route.

Jonesy_A 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Chevis
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead β
ASchwirtz 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Russ
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 27/May/13 2nd dog
BeccaSnowden 30/Jul/12 Lead RP

Fantastic route. 1st RP

with Mike
philhaigh 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
marcb 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

Thought I was doing 'Very Sleepy River', got 75% and was pretty convinced this wasn't 6b, then I fell. Then I tried the top part and was almost certain it wasn't 6b. Lowered to the floor and had a nice shock to find it was 7a+. Went back up and dogged to the top. I think it could go now I got the top sequence figured.

with Sarah Barr, Matt Marshall
matthewjames 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

Great climb. Screwed up the last move of the crux on the first rp. Will be back to do it again!

Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead RP
Evie 17/Jun/12 Lead RP
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead O/S
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead RP
Dandan82 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
SMc 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Anne
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead RP
jfreeman 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 14/Aug/11 Lead β
natalietanzer 06/Aug/11 Lead RP

Clean first time after trying it last year, roof felt much easier this time!

with will
wi11 05/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Hold broke

with Nat
mark_wellin 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence
tom106 31/May/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 14/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Magnus
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Carlos, Nat
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Bit crumbly low down but nice moves to finish. Rp1.

dav 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
Mike Goldthorp 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very dusty but easy bottom bit, full rest and then an absolutely wicked bit of climbing through and above the roof! If not for the start it would be 3* no doubt

Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
feilx 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead RP
Jane Weir 20/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead dog
Jus 19/Sep/09 Lead β
Pete Scott 17/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
schof 02/Aug/09 Lead RP

second go

with joel perry
trev_f 13/Jul/09 Lead β
with Jon
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dmoir 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead β
eddieclimb ??/2008 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Rebecca Edwards
Martin Krasnansky 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
keefe 17/Sep/06 Lead
with Tansy
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead β
lx ?/Feb/04 Lead


with ros
John Southworth 02/Jun/01 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ArrMcC, Hidden, lewiz, Hidden, Hidden, givemetea, Hidden, Hidden, Pete Scott
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set