22m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting pitch that is steady at the grade. Follow the gently leaning lower wall to a small ledge below the steep upper section. Pull through a bulge and up the wall with difficulty to a flowstone shelf and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 11/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.


ClimberDateStyle
samparsons 02/Jun Lead β

Great moves out over the top but the bottom is filthy!

afterthesend 02/Jun Lead RP

3Rd pop

with Sam P
afrosam 19/May Lead RP

retro onsight of sorts (in the rain)

with freya
Linc 14/May Lead O/S
with Kay
Albachoss 08/May Lead RP

Amazing moves through the crux and up the headwall

with Ben
FlavioL1989 30/Apr Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 28/Apr Lead O/S

A hold broke on me low down on easy ground and I came off. Still felt like on sight to me as I pulled straight back on and climbed through the hard part

with Flavio, Ben Philips, Ellie
rachelvlc 16/Apr Lead
littleluke 16/Apr Lead rpt
Matt77 09/Apr Lead β

Threw everything at this and it paid off. All the rests come in just the right places.

with Chris Riddett, Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell
Laurence Everitt 20/Mar Lead RP
littleluke 12/Mar Lead RP
rachelvlc 12/Mar Lead dnf
Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep/15 TR dog

All going well until the overhang, need a better sequence- remember the gaston into the first big hold above the roof next time...

ThomasB ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
lewiz 30/Aug/15 Lead β

Had good beta. Soft.

R2B 30/Aug/15 Lead dog

Fell off going over the roof. Close!

with Climb
Edward Kwong 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Bottom section very loose. Steady first half to rest point. Crux over the roof requires hands in the correct sequence, nearly blew the on-sight because of this. Holds are very chalked up and much better than expected though, move through confidently. First on-sight 7a+ :D

Aaron.Clifford 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Renna Clifford
BenL 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
philhaigh 10/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
rjf106 ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
Nick Clement 14/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
chakrit 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really great route

with Gary
Hidden 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
TomJ 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
pezzerrr 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 22/Mar/15 Lead RP

1st RP - A good trade route with positive holds most of the way. Low in the grade.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
Julie Carroll 13/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson
dan gibson 19/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead RP
with mandy clement
xiangoh ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tskelhon 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt

1st rp

TomJ 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
with TomS
valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
afrosam 25/May/14 Lead dog
Rupey 03/May/14 Lead dog
Barry Kerslake 03/May/14 Lead RP
with Vic Hau
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd RP
philhaigh 15/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mel Dodge
Jay81 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Tomar
Tomar 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Would have been able to flash this if I didn't decide to sketch out at the roof

Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
Tommyads ??/2014 -

Flash

sarpedon 07/Dec/13 Lead dog
RFWilkie 21/Sep/13 Lead RP

First Portland 7a+, 2 sessions. Seems fairly soft. Bottom is very friable but good top moves.

Ian Bell 21/Sep/13 TR dog

On someone elses rope. Tough finish through the roof, rest OK ish.

philhaigh 08/Aug/13 2nd RP
maybe_si 14/Jun/13 Lead RP
tiffanykate12 14/Jun/13 TR dog

Hardest climb I've attempted - worked the moves, just need more fitness to stop and read the route.

Jonesy_A 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Chevis
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead β
ASchwirtz 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Russ
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 27/May/13 2nd dog
BeccaSnowden 30/Jul/12 Lead RP

Fantastic route. 1st RP

with Mike
philhaigh 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
marcb 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

Thought I was doing 'Very Sleepy River', got 75% and was pretty convinced this wasn't 6b, then I fell. Then I tried the top part and was almost certain it wasn't 6b. Lowered to the floor and had a nice shock to find it was 7a+. Went back up and dogged to the top. I think it could go now I got the top sequence figured.

with Sarah Barr, Matt Marshall
matthewjames 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

Great climb. Screwed up the last move of the crux on the first rp. Will be back to do it again!

Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead RP
Evie 17/Jun/12 Lead RP
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead O/S
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead RP
Dandan82 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
SMc 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Anne
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead RP
jfreeman 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 14/Aug/11 Lead β
natalietanzer 06/Aug/11 Lead RP

Clean first time after trying it last year, roof felt much easier this time!

with will
wi11 05/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Hold broke

with Nat
mark_wellin 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence
tom106 31/May/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 14/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Magnus
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Carlos, Nat
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Bit crumbly low down but nice moves to finish. Rp1.

dav 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
Mike Goldthorp 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very dusty but easy bottom bit, full rest and then an absolutely wicked bit of climbing through and above the roof! If not for the start it would be 3* no doubt

Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
feilx 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead RP
Jane Weir 20/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead dog
Jus 19/Sep/09 Lead β
Pete Scott 17/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
schof 02/Aug/09 Lead RP

second go

with joel perry
trev_f 13/Jul/09 Lead β
with Jon
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dmoir 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead β
eddieclimb ??/2008 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Rebecca Edwards
Martin Krasnansky 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
keefe 17/Sep/06 Lead
with Tansy
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead β
lx ?/Feb/04 Lead

onsight

with ros
John Southworth 02/Jun/01 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matti Puckridge, Owen W-G, Ferdi, Hidden, lewiz, Hidden, Hidden, givemetea, Hidden, Hidden, Pete Scott
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set