Dorset > Blacknor North >
Apple Turn Overload** 7a+

Adjacent Climbs
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Very Sleepy River >>
22m. The lower wall has now cleaned up nicely which has increased the quality of the climb. The finish is as good as it has always been. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joff Cook 11.10.92 11/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

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This climb is in 83 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd RP - 15/Apr/14

philhaigh - Lead dog - 15/Apr/14 with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mel Dodge

Jay81 - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14 with Tomar

2nd go. Would have been able to flash this if I didn't decide to sketch out at the roof
Tomar - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14 with "Brosky"

1st go today. The upper section is fantastic. Unfinished business in motion...
Antony87 - Lead β - 12/Apr/14 with Barry, Steve Hau, Jesus Joe, Mars

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/14

I_hang_dog - Lead rpt - 07/Dec/13

First Portland 7a+, 2 sessions. Seems fairly soft. Bottom is very friable but good top moves.
RFWilkie - Lead RP - 21/Sep/13

On someone elses rope. Tough finish through the roof, rest OK ish.
Ian Bell - TR dog - 21/Sep/13

philhaigh - 2nd RP - 08/Aug/13 with Trev Ford

maybe_si - Lead RP - 14/Jun/13

Hardest climb I've attempted - worked the moves, just need more fitness to stop and read the route.
tiffanykate12 - TR dog - 14/Jun/13

Jonesy_A - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/13 with Chevis

Great climbing through the roof, the lower wall feels snappy and dusty.
Ian Fidd - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Zoe

Hidden - Lead β - 02/Jun/13

ASchwirtz - Lead RP - 01/Jun/13 with Russ

Lower wall feels friable.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

EmilyElouise - 2nd dog - 27/May/13

Fantastic route. 1st RP
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 30/Jul/12 with Mike

philhaigh - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/12 with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh

Thought I was doing 'Very Sleepy River', got 75% and was pretty convinced this wasn't 6b, then I fell. Then I tried the top part and was almost certain it wasn't 6b. Lowered to the floor and had a nice shock to find it was 7a+. Went back up and dogged to the top. I think it could go now I got the top sequence figured.
marcb - Lead dog - 30/Jun/12 with Sarah Barr, Matt Marshall

Great climb. Screwed up the last move of the crux on the first rp. Will be back to do it again!
matthewjames - Lead dog - 30/Jun/12 with Marc Baldwin

Jim Brooke - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/12 with Rich

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Jun/12

Evie - Lead RP - 17/Jun/12

Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 23/May/12

alek - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/12 with Martin Cleaver

Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Peter Dickinson - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Matt Welsh

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Mar/12

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Feb/12

SMc - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Anne

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Sep/11

jfreeman - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead β - 14/Aug/11 with Jon Freeman

Clean first time after trying it last year, roof felt much easier this time!
natalietanzer - Lead RP - 06/Aug/11 with will

Hold broke
wi11 - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/11 with Nat

mark_wellin - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Sami Mandeel - Lead dog - 24/Jul/11 with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence

tom106 - Lead β - 31/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 14/Apr/11 with Magnus

Have been on this route a couple of years ago. The lower section was very dusty. The roof still feels hard, but i remember the sequence over the roof. A spectacular finish. Project! I am really psyched to get something of this quality this summer
Antony87 - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/11

Billg - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Will Calvert

wi11 - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11 with Carlos, Nat

Bit crumbly low down but nice moves to finish. Rp1.
tedj234 - Lead RP - Mar/11 with Kate, davidliu, Harry

dav - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Gill B

Very dusty but easy bottom bit, full rest and then an absolutely wicked bit of climbing through and above the roof! If not for the start it would be 3* no doubt
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, alex mason

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Jun/10

Hurrah - ticked 2nd RP this time, took quite a while. (Lead Dog on 01/05/10 - Put clips in, worked on TR and then 3 RP attempts. Getting shut down at the headwall each time. Will be back. Lead dog on 10/04/10 - fantastic heart-in-mouth slap to the flowstone rail)
Quiddity - Lead RP - 30/May/10 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Jane Weir - 2010

feilx - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Heather

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Sep/09

Jus - Lead β - 19/Sep/09

Pete Scott - Lead - 17/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

second go
schof - Lead RP - 02/Aug/09 with joel perry

trev_f - Lead β - 13/Jul/09 with Jon

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09

riddle - Lead dog - 24/May/09 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

nealh - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead RP - 2009

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Dave Moir

dmoir - Lead RP - 29/Jun/08 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Jun/08

1st redpoint
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 2008 with Rebecca Edwards

Martin Krasnansky - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/07

bigie bob - Lead RP - 23/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

keefe - Lead - 17/Sep/06 with Tansy

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

lx - Lead - Feb/04 with ros

John Southworth - Lead RP - 02/Jun/01

Richard White - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, givemetea, Hidden, Quiddity, Pete Scott

Total votes cast 74
hard 7b0 of 38
7b0 of 38
easy 7b0 of 38
hard 7a+1 of 38
7a+21 of 38
easy 7a+9 of 38
hard 7a6 of 38
7a1 of 38
easy 7a0 of 38
3 Stars3 of 36
2 Stars19 of 36
1 Star13 of 36
0 Stars1 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Lead71 of 83 (85.5%)
Followed6 of 83 (7.2%)
Toproped2 of 83 (2.4%)
Unknown4 of 83 (4.8%)

'Climbed'11 of 83 (13.3%)
clean O/S21 of 83 (25.3%)
clean β8 of 83 (9.6%)
clean rpt1 of 83 (1.2%)
clean RP25 of 83 (30.1%)
dogged14 of 83 (16.9%)
dnf3 of 83 (3.6%)