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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
A testpiece of the area with a long reach to a pocket at half-height being the crux. There is a short person's sequence. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 03/Oct/1992.
Ticklists
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , UK 8a and up , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jeromecooper | 16 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Account opened. 3 tie ins today. All moves worked out and linked in three sections. Felt easier than I thought it would. Might change when making bigger links. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Account opened. 3 tie ins today. All moves worked out and linked in three sections. Felt easier than I thought it would. Might change when making bigger links. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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The Schwarzechild Radius
Grade: 8a+ ***
(Blackers Hole)