A fingery climb, and the first of the superb flowstone pitches on this section of the crag. Start by climbing the wall just right of the bolts to good holds. Ascend the increasingly-technical wall via a thin move and small undercut to an easier finish on the left. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 12/Sep/1992
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Simply too polished, no doubt was a cracking route but not now!! CBA
Pete Cahill, jim hewson
Rested before the crux
Great line and climbing!
complete alzhiemers on sight
Renna Clifford, Aaron Clifford
|Edward Kwong||28/Jun||Lead β||
Techy middle crux section. I remained left, then used a couple of crucial small sidepulls to the positive ledge. This avoided the very chalked up mono undercut... Second half is wonderfully juggy and enjoyable.
Great route - fell once on the crux moving off the two finger undercut (which was fair enough, bit pumped) and then took another fall shortly after because I misread the line (annoying!) Easy finish which was nice.
really good climbing - the crux is awesome
Tried this once last year and it felt pumpy back then. Did not remember any of it so could almost call this an onsight today, putting the draws in as well. Good climb!
Felt utterly desperate putting the draws in but a few toppies to figure out the crux and got it done 1st RP. Brilliant route, favourite and hardest ever so far for me :)
Jack Knight, Steven Thomas
|Martin Bagshaw||17/May||Lead O/S||
Very interesting climbing! Almost fell off it with numb fingers from cold
|Charlie Noakes||22/Mar||Lead O/S||
Lovely crux sequence
|Owen Diba||22/Mar||Lead dog|
|Pete Scott||21/Mar||Lead O/S|
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||14/Mar||Lead O/S|
|Giles Davis||27/Sep/14||TR RP||
Just thought I'd top rope it first as there was still one move at the crux that I wasn't sure I'd make on lead.
|Giles Davis||27/Sep/14||Lead RP||
really really good fun. Flowed so well managed to avoid any pump that I thought was inevitable!
|Gem Minihan||21/Sep/14||TR dog|
|Stuart Johnston||20/Sep/14||Lead O/S|
|adam 24||20/Sep/14||Lead O/S|
Solo TR. Nice.
|Ash Sayers||11/Sep/14||Lead RP|
Got halfway up this a year ago but gave up on the rather balancy crux, but got up it first time today.
|Giles Davis||06/Sep/14||Lead dog|
|Gem Minihan||24/Aug/14||TR dog|
|Chris Sansum||23/Aug/14||Lead dnf||
Wasn't really taking this seriously! No plans to get up it - was just coerced into trying it! Anyway, made it most of the way up and gave up after the crux (reached the undercut).
|Tom Seccombe||27/Jul/14||Lead dog||
rested half way
tough in the upper section a well pulled on sloper to take
whoa it is a hard 6C its good too :)
|Joe W-O||21/Jun/14||Lead O/S|
Fantastic climb quite sustained. First 6c onsight.
Should have had this first time but went to the wrong way at the crux and got two pumped reversing it!
Great route, chuffed with the onsight.
Couldn't reach 3rd bolt to clip, felt uneasy trying the crux without being clipped in, was in a strange mind-set that day, will come back and do it! Figured it out though.
got through crux but fell going into undercut... next time
Jun Minohara, Pino Ferro
Tom Jordan, Charlotte
Got it on the second attempt, crux very hard to read.
amazing flowstone climbing!
Last climb of the weekend and knackered. crux is tough with bad feet.
mat lamb, kelly, luke owens
Pumpy. Had to climb way past one of the bolts before clipping because I couldn't reach. Excellent route otherwise.
|3 Names||08/Jul/13||Lead rpt|
Alex banks, Ben Corbey
|Steph Roberts||06/Jun/13||TR dnf|
|Sami Mandeel||06/Jun/13||Lead rpt||
Steph, Sam Ferguson
|Southern Mark Smith||01/Jun/13||Lead rpt||
Missed a sidepull on O/S attempt, clean second try.
|Sophie Nunn||28/Apr/13||Lead O/S|
|ian d f||28/Apr/13||Lead dog||
I thought I was on Aim High, Shoot Low - turns out this is a good warm-up too!
Martin, Michael P
Nice to have a go, but it felt very tricky the whole way up, even the 'easy' bit with the undercling jugs. 6c still feels a long way away. :-/
Jenny Southern, Cameron
Jenny Southern, Cameron
|Beefy Bert||??/2013||Lead RP|
Took a go to remind myself where all the holds are, but then did it easily.
|andy south devon||29/Sep/12||Lead dog|
Found it very scary and a little loose especially around the upper undercuts and dirty stuck on surrounding choss. Friends say "possibly best 6c on the island" but did not have the same experience and did not enjoy, I wonder why?
|James Oswald||03/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine
Good route. Cool top. shortlived crux, should have O/S though hard to reach clip.
Took a few goes to workout a repeatable sequence through the crux. Think I now have it, but was too tired to get it clean by then. Hope to get RP next time.
|Jake Young||24/Aug/12||Lead O/S|
One fall at the move on the overlaps
Retroflash, everybit as good as I remember it!
Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
With one rest. Really happy with that considering my lack of sport climbing. Technical climbing on lovely rock.
Started and finished in a pretty heavy drizzle. Was pretty greasy but not un-climbable. Felt benchmark 6c to me. Another worthwhile route in this area.
Hard to os, didn't get back on.
|Jim Brooke||23/Jun/12||Lead RP||
All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing.
took a whipper from just above crux moves, then got knackered on ground up attempt. phenomenal moves though.
|Jonathan Emett||04/Jun/12||Lead dog||
foot slipped on the crux.
|DJ Nelson||04/Jun/12||Lead β||
classic 6c moves
|Jaime Mitchell||27/May/12||TR dnf|
|Jonathan Emett||19/May/12||Lead rpt|
|Jaime Mitchell||12/May/12||2nd dog|
|Martin Cleaver||21/Apr/12||Lead O/S|
|Gareth Bowen||01/Apr/12||Lead RP||
|dobby 200||31/Mar/12||Lead dog||
|Adam Booth||23/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
Led first 6 bolts clean. Didn't have the stamina to make the final hard move onto the easier looking top section.
Hard technical climbing on small flowstone holds and a building pump until the big big hole. One of the best 6c I've ever done!
Tough for 6c. Two hard moves. Easy top section
Slippery holds at the crux, but redpoint will definitely happen next time.
Completely beaten up on this one. I don't think the warm up of reptile smile quite worked on a route that was so not my style! Pumped to buggery but still seemed very tough for the grade.
|Jonathan Emett||27/May/11||Lead dnf||
lead up to the crux, which I got - then fell off.
Nice climb with a lovely crux section.
Charles Green, Kris Mazurek
Warmup. As good as last time.
|Jonathan Emett||08/May/11||Lead dog||
I couldn't figure out the crux onsight, really disappointed; as soon as I came off, I could see it. absolutely fantastic climb.
rick, mike pinney
Warmup. Tricky little number. But good!
|Mike Green||16/Apr/11||Lead dnf|
|Laurence Everitt||12/Mar/11||Lead RP||
One I had to come back for after failing last summer
|Harry Thorpe||12/Mar/11||TR O/S||
Very pleased to do this first time, must lead it
Lawrence Bird, Laurence Everitt
|Brian H||06/Mar/11||Lead rpt|
Jake Day, Joe Day, Rosea
Awesome climb, need to come back for the redpoint!
good route, doesnt look it from the ground. big moves lead the the flowstone crux, and then bucket hauling to the top, some scary rock at the top tho!
Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
Nick K, nick baker
|Ben Harper||24/Apr/10||Lead RP||
Tried this 3 years ago and couldnt do it, but got it first go today
|3 Names||11/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
|Dave Rumney||11/Oct/09||Lead RP|
Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
Got a couple of moves below the big undercut.
|Sophie Nunn||31/Jul/09||2nd dog|
|Justin T||18/Jun/09||Lead O/S||
An interesting selection of holds chalked up around the crux ... the most obviously chalked of which I couldn't find a useful way to use at all so ignored!
mike thomas, jo
|dan gibson||24/May/09||Lead rpt|
Took a rest at the pocket - really shouldn't have cos I'd worked out the move, just failed to commit firs time. Nice and technical at the bottom, gets a bit more strenuous at the top. Seemed pretty easy compared to Reptile Smile that I tried next.
|chris sm||21/Mar/09||Lead RP||
|Tim W||07/Mar/09||Lead O/S|
1st go today after trying over 2 yrs ago.
|Ed Babs||26/Feb/09||Lead RP|
|Martin Davies||28/Sep/08||Lead dog||
Toproped it clean first, to get my head in gear for a clean lead. Great great climb
|Matt Bennett||19/Jun/08||Lead O/S|
|Morgan Woods||15/Jun/08||Lead rpt||
A bit tougher than i remember....looks like there is an easier sequence at the crux.
|Ben Tyrrell||01/Jun/08||Lead O/S|
first try at this redpointing malarky. one clean toprope then on the sharp end. twice wanted to rest but fascist belayer wouldn't let me. glad of it afterward. crux for me getting into the double undercling at mid height. so pumped by top. slept well that night.
dave the random
neil foster, andy elliot
|Julian Mowbray||18/May/08||Lead dog||
|Graham Westbrook||?/Apr/08||Lead β|
Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
|bigie bob||23/Feb/07||Lead O/S|
|trevor macalonan||19/Sep/06||TR dog|
|Morgan Woods||06/Aug/06||Lead RP||
v. nice only one hard move.
|Richard Horn||06/Aug/06||Lead RP|
|ian caton||?/Jul/06||Lead O/S|
|Kev Little||??/2004||Lead O/S|
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||19/Jul/02||Lead O/S|
|Southern Mark Smith||??/2000||-|
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
Had seconded before
|John Southworth||?/May/97||Lead O/S|
fell off crux
|Dave Musgrove||16/Jul/95||Lead O/S||
|Mark Kemball||09/Apr/95||Lead O/S|
|Nigel Coe||03/Oct/92||Lead dog|