Dorset > Blacknor North >
 
Spanner Eyes* 7b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Crocadilia
 
England's Dreaming >>
[Hugh on Spanner Eyes, 2 kb]21m. Move up and then left to beneath a thin crack. Ascend the crack and move left to more hard moves and a precarious rockover before easier ground is encountered. © ROCKFAX
FA. Will Jones Aug/1996

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Photo: Hugh on Spanner Eyes © Jon_Butters
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Benmay - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14 with Luca Celano

Clean lead to the 2nd to last bolt and the crux groove. Sorted the moves and clean on tr. One to come back to fresh, on a cooler day.
LJC - Lead dog - 28/Sep/14 with Ben May, Phill, George

b2b checking it out.
Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 16/Aug/14

Nick Clement - Lead - 06/Aug/14 with mandy clement

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jul/14

philhaigh - Lead RP - 20/Jul/14 with Fi Marlow, Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Natalie Haigh

philhaigh - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/14 with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan

BenL - Lead RP - 17/May/14 with Angus Webb, Ryu

rjf106 - Lead RP - 17/May/14 with Ben

maybe_si - Lead RP - 06/Jul/13

Oddjob - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/13 with Rosie

Perryman - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13

lewiz - Lead β - 25/May/13 with Pete Gagie

chiverstom - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with zappa, Alice, Sam Keyne

patrickc - TR dnf - 21/Apr/13 with Sue

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Apr/13

Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Dave Westlake

Hidden - TR - 20/Apr/13

Jobbo - Lead RP - 07/Apr/13 with Alex

Hidden - TR dog - 03/Mar/13

Jobbo - Lead dog - 03/Mar/13 with Sue

MartyJ - Lead RP - 16/Feb/13

Kopinski - Lead RP - Jan/13

Tommyads - 2013

Hidden - TR dog - 09/Nov/12

slightly harder than englands dreaming
DJ Nelson - Lead RP - 26/Aug/12 with Micaela Langellotti

stuggled initially, fell on the first RP from the last move! had to use a flake out to the left at max armspan to do the top, which after reading the logs here seems the norm.
rustaldo - Lead dog - 19/Jul/12 with Jordon Fleming

Failed the onsight so stripped it down. Will have another go next time in the area.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 15/Jul/12 with Alex More

Pumpy crux section. Couldn't span the crux so had to find alternative way through the pump by laybacking off the left groove and moving my feet up on tiny nothingness!
Evie - Lead RP - 03/Apr/12 with Yann

Linc - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with zoe brodie-james

2nd go
rubben - Lead dog - 03/Mar/12 with Marcus O'Leary

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Nov/11

j miller - 22/Oct/11

i_a_coops - Lead RP - 03/Oct/11

tom106 - Lead RP - 31/May/11

Bern - Lead RP - 08/May/11 with Richard White

Richard White - Lead RP - 30/Apr/11 with Bern

Used the far left long sidepull through the crux which seemed to make it far too easy for the grade? I may have to climb it direct for my own peace of mind...
Dandan82 - Lead RP - 29/Apr/11 with Lisa Marsh

2nd RP of the day; should have done quicker, you just need to not get flash pumped and keep calm towards the end
jgustafsson - Lead RP - 25/Apr/11 with Jen

Agonizingly close but no cigar today. really a bummer, but sweltering hot day and felt very tired. Normal 7b, i think.
jgustafsson - Lead dog - 23/Apr/11 with Jen

Hidden - TR - 03/Apr/11

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Oct/10

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 25/Oct/10 with Magnus

Hidden - TR dog - 24/Oct/10

Need some work to get this one, but not a million miles away.
GarethHall - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/10 with Gary Wong

Hidden - TR dog - 10/Oct/10

Tried beginning of August this year. Today found a new sequence through the crux that felt easier - first 7b, yeah!
givemetea - Lead RP - 30/Sep/10 with Hannah Heywood

Brian H - Lead RP - 19/Sep/10

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 05/Sep/10 with James P

may 2010 - lower section sequence took a couple of tries! august 2010 - things went swimmingly!
thomb - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/10

thomb - Lead - 12/Aug/10 with Darren

jacobjacob - Lead β - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 01/Aug/10

took ages
Pete Scott - Lead RP - Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 29/Jul/10

blisteringly hot midsummer's day - got it just before the sun went down. mostly a mental battle trying to stay on target for the last couple of moves! 2 lead working goes & 3 RP attempts (11/04/10 2x TR with Tony - great route - much better than it looks from the ground. more sustained than England's Dreaming but no single harder move.)
Quiddity - Lead RP - 27/Jun/10 with Mac and Ally, Curious Yellow

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Jun/10

La Mont - Lead rpt - 31/May/10 with Rich Dagnan

Really nice climbing with added spice factor. Took the big whipper off the pinch on the first RP. First 7b! :)
vertigo - Lead RP - 30/May/10 with Andy Lamont

2nd go nice route
brices - Lead RP - 25/May/10

HARD 7b imo, although I stayed direct at the finish which extends the hard climbing and definitely bumps up the grade. Really good climbing, pretty soft if you use the flake out left - agreed with Rubben tried that way and seemed to easy and a bit off route...
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 09/May/10 with Rebecca Edwards

Hidden - Lead RP - May/10

Leeds - Lead RP - 23/Apr/10

Had one go at this on lead, then top rope. Bottom is easy. Middle section is hard. From reaching up with the cross through to undercling (thin)...and up through the flowstone sidepulls. Did not use the far left flake as didn't consider it a part of the climb?? A previous climber had said it was in though?
rubben - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10 with Marcus O'Leary

Rob Kennard - 07/Apr/10 with Jon Howell

billb - Lead - Apr/10 with Lee

Hidden - Lead RP - 2010

tobydunford - Lead RP - 20/Jun/09 with Harry Martin

tobydunford - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/09

tobydunford - Lead dog - 09/May/09 with Charlie

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Apr/09

sam_cox - Lead β - 22/Apr/09

hippo99 - Lead RP - 06/Mar/09 with alice stanbury

schof - Lead RP - 28/Feb/09 with harry massey

First 7b
trev_f - Lead RP - 27/Feb/09 with Andy

Marti999 - Lead RP - 26/Feb/09 with Harry Massey

nealh - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/May/08

2.try missed a hold:(
Martin Krasnansky - Lead RP - 03/Feb/08

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 02/Sep/07

dan gibson - Lead RP - 19/Aug/07 with karing

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/May/07

Stephen Roberts - TR O/S - 02/Apr/07 with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin

marky - Lead RP - Apr/07

bigie bob - Lead RP - 23/Feb/07

dannyboy83 - Lead RP - Sep/06 with Floris

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, JKay, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Quiddity, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 42
hard 7b+0 of 22
7b+0 of 22
easy 7b+0 of 22
hard 7b1 of 22
7b14 of 22
easy 7b5 of 22
hard 7a+2 of 22
7a+0 of 22
easy 7a+0 of 22
3 Stars3 of 20
2 Stars16 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead73 of 90 (81.1%)
Followed1 of 90 (1.1%)
Toproped12 of 90 (13.3%)
Unknown4 of 90 (4.4%)

'Climbed'10 of 90 (11.1%)
clean O/S3 of 90 (3.3%)
clean β3 of 90 (3.3%)
clean rpt2 of 90 (2.2%)
clean RP45 of 90 (50.0%)
dogged23 of 90 (25.6%)
dnf4 of 90 (4.4%)