Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A good route that has some great moves. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 20/Feb/1993.
Ticklists
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DavidR | 21 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Some very loose and chossy bits on the upper section, and also quite crumbly in places lower down. Be careful on the whole thing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some very loose and chossy bits on the upper section, and also quite crumbly in places lower down. Be careful on the whole thing! |
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| John Alcock | 21 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable technical climbing for the first half. the crux is on very smooth footholds, but perfectly protected if like me you have to slap. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable technical climbing for the first half. the crux is on very smooth footholds, but perfectly protected if like me you have to slap. |
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| tomrainbow | 10 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is really hard - has something fallen off it (the rock below the overhang seemed more crumbly). The route is very unbalanced with good but much easier climbing above and below the crux. Worth doing but not worth a star. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is really hard - has something fallen off it (the rock below the overhang seemed more crumbly). The route is very unbalanced with good but much easier climbing above and below the crux. Worth doing but not worth a star. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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No Man is an Island
Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)