The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
An excellent route featuring a powerful crux and an interesting groove to finish. The groove can be a bit dusty. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 06/Mar/1993.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland Trip , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
John_Beesley | 12 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pinch to undercling, heel on, right hand to crimp, left foot on big edge, left pinch, bump to left sidepull, up with right to two finger edge, left foot up on big smear, bump up right to big ledge. Worked for me - 5' 6" with a short ape index. No dyno needed. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Pinch to undercling, heel on, right hand to crimp, left foot on big edge, left pinch, bump to left sidepull, up with right to two finger edge, left foot up on big smear, bump up right to big ledge. Worked for me - 5' 6" with a short ape index. No dyno needed. |
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Grade: 7c ***
(Coastguard South)