Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A good line that is low in the grade and can be dusty. Weird tufa pipes and formations show the way. Use the lower-off to the right. © Rockfax
FA. Gorden Jenkin 10/Jul/1993.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| earthkeptwarm | 18 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a rusty maillon on one of the tiny staples at the anchor. Getting your rope through the anchor is the crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a rusty maillon on one of the tiny staples at the anchor. Getting your rope through the anchor is the crux. |
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| elulle | 3 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Half way up there is a seagulls nest waiting for you. Did not finish the route due to other seagulls getting called over. Would not recommend this route during seagull breeding time. Apart from that the first half of the climb was very enjoyable and a bit pumpy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Half way up there is a seagulls nest waiting for you. Did not finish the route due to other seagulls getting called over. Would not recommend this route during seagull breeding time. Apart from that the first half of the climb was very enjoyable and a bit pumpy. |
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| John Alcock | 24 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Spetember ascent, no dust, great fun and worth two stars. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Spetember ascent, no dust, great fun and worth two stars. |
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| Richard Horn | 21 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this is june and it was totally clean, did it yesterday and it was covered in thick layer of dust, obviously brought down from above in the recent rain. Star rating from 0 to 2 stars depending on dust levels! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did this is june and it was totally clean, did it yesterday and it was covered in thick layer of dust, obviously brought down from above in the recent rain. Star rating from 0 to 2 stars depending on dust levels! |
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| lx | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was a realy good route, with good moves on interesting and solid rock. It is a bit dirty but no more so than a lot of the routes in the sector. Considering some of the loose choss that gets a star elsewhere near here this should get at least two. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I thought this was a realy good route, with good moves on interesting and solid rock. It is a bit dirty but no more so than a lot of the routes in the sector. Considering some of the loose choss that gets a star elsewhere near here this should get at least two. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Unseen Ripples of the Pebble
Grade: 6b ***
(Winspit)