UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A great outing with an easy start and an intricate finish up the striking, angular arete in the centre of this area. Move right around the top roof. Atmospheric and exposed positions. © Rockfax

FA. Gorden Jenkin, Mike Robertson 22/Jun/1997.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , ULMC Classics , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Work you fucking piece of shit , PO2021 , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Georgia Combes 11 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not a 6a if you're 5ft3 or less!!! Got up 7a's that were easier than that for my height. On almost nothing for both my feet and left hand (can't reach the left undercut and hold the arete with my right hand ?)
Show beta
βeta: Not a 6a if you're 5ft3 or less!!! Got up 7a's that were easier than that for my height. On almost nothing for both my feet and left hand (can't reach the left undercut and hold the arete with my right hand ?)
Lucydavison09 15 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb! Surprised it doesn’t get more traffic. Bold move at the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb! Surprised it doesn’t get more traffic. Bold move at the top
Al Evans 2 Jan, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I think its been rightly upgraded and so did Gerry, but we are both bit on the short side.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think its been rightly upgraded and so did Gerry, but we are both bit on the short side.
Fidget 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I went back... and flashed it, yippee! Much easier when you already know most of the moves. Richard - I'm not a dwarf (5'7") and can only just reach the ledge by using the sidepull on the left, the tricky bit is having enough strength to haul up a bit and traverse across to the bolt on minimal feet!
Show beta
βeta: I went back... and flashed it, yippee! Much easier when you already know most of the moves. Richard - I'm not a dwarf (5'7") and can only just reach the ledge by using the sidepull on the left, the tricky bit is having enough strength to haul up a bit and traverse across to the bolt on minimal feet!
Wilbur 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i think it's exactly on the cusp of 5+ and 6A ;o). It should get 6A though just for the exciting rock-over on the spike!! Don't forget there's lots of delicate balancy moves upto the break and even when i reached it i had to semi-pop to the spike!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i think it's exactly on the cusp of 5+ and 6A ;o). It should get 6A though just for the exciting rock-over on the spike!! Don't forget there's lots of delicate balancy moves upto the break and even when i reached it i had to semi-pop to the spike!
Richard Horn 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Think this should have stayed at 5+ myself as you would have to be a bit of a dwarf not to reach the jug in the break from a good foothold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think this should have stayed at 5+ myself as you would have to be a bit of a dwarf not to reach the jug in the break from a good foothold.
Wilbur 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with your comments about grade - it actually says 6A now on the online database though.. the penultimate bolt, on the other hand, is easy to clip from the ledge although the move to the ledge isn't easy...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with your comments about grade - it actually says 6A now on the online database though.. the penultimate bolt, on the other hand, is easy to clip from the ledge although the move to the ledge isn't easy...
Fidget 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this, and am quite chuffed that gets 6a. I didn't quite make it, had to use the side pull to get to the ledge even though I'm not that short, but couldn't find my feet to traverse to the bolt, and dropped off twice before giving up! Will definately be back...
Show beta
βeta: Really enjoyed this, and am quite chuffed that gets 6a. I didn't quite make it, had to use the side pull to get to the ledge even though I'm not that short, but couldn't find my feet to traverse to the bolt, and dropped off twice before giving up! Will definately be back...
Wilbur 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic. One of the best routes i've done on Portland. tough for 5+ - delicate footwork required at the top as well as a lot of commitment!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic. One of the best routes i've done on Portland. tough for 5+ - delicate footwork required at the top as well as a lot of commitment!
Alex More 18 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, easy start gives way to an intricate finish on the arete, graded right at 5+ though, always holds when you need them, atmospheric positions!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, easy start gives way to an intricate finish on the arete, graded right at 5+ though, always holds when you need them, atmospheric positions!!!
Jim Houghton 23 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Very hard in the grade, felt harder than many 6a+'s
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very hard in the grade, felt harder than many 6a+'s

Logged Ascents

1180 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 250 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 152
Votes cast 187
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

Loading Notifications...