The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A great outing with an easy start and an intricate finish up the striking, angular arete in the centre of this area. Move right around the top roof. Atmospheric and exposed positions. © Rockfax
FA. Gorden Jenkin, Mike Robertson 22/Jun/1997.
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , ULMC Classics , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Work you fucking piece of shit , PO2021 , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Georgia Combes | 11 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Not a 6a if you're 5ft3 or less!!! Got up 7a's that were easier than that for my height. On almost nothing for both my feet and left hand (can't reach the left undercut and hold the arete with my right hand ?) | ||
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βeta: Not a 6a if you're 5ft3 or less!!! Got up 7a's that were easier than that for my height. On almost nothing for both my feet and left hand (can't reach the left undercut and hold the arete with my right hand ?) |
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Lucydavison09 | 15 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Great climb! Surprised it doesn’t get more traffic. Bold move at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great climb! Surprised it doesn’t get more traffic. Bold move at the top |
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Al Evans | 2 Jan, 2007 |
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βeta: I think its been rightly upgraded and so did Gerry, but we are both bit on the short side. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think its been rightly upgraded and so did Gerry, but we are both bit on the short side. |
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Fidget | 18 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I went back... and flashed it, yippee! Much easier when you already know most of the moves. Richard - I'm not a dwarf (5'7") and can only just reach the ledge by using the sidepull on the left, the tricky bit is having enough strength to haul up a bit and traverse across to the bolt on minimal feet! | ||
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βeta: I went back... and flashed it, yippee! Much easier when you already know most of the moves. Richard - I'm not a dwarf (5'7") and can only just reach the ledge by using the sidepull on the left, the tricky bit is having enough strength to haul up a bit and traverse across to the bolt on minimal feet! |
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Wilbur | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: i think it's exactly on the cusp of 5+ and 6A ;o). It should get 6A though just for the exciting rock-over on the spike!! Don't forget there's lots of delicate balancy moves upto the break and even when i reached it i had to semi-pop to the spike! | βeta? | |
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βeta: i think it's exactly on the cusp of 5+ and 6A ;o). It should get 6A though just for the exciting rock-over on the spike!! Don't forget there's lots of delicate balancy moves upto the break and even when i reached it i had to semi-pop to the spike! |
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Richard Horn | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Think this should have stayed at 5+ myself as you would have to be a bit of a dwarf not to reach the jug in the break from a good foothold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Think this should have stayed at 5+ myself as you would have to be a bit of a dwarf not to reach the jug in the break from a good foothold. |
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Wilbur | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Agree with your comments about grade - it actually says 6A now on the online database though.. the penultimate bolt, on the other hand, is easy to clip from the ledge although the move to the ledge isn't easy... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree with your comments about grade - it actually says 6A now on the online database though.. the penultimate bolt, on the other hand, is easy to clip from the ledge although the move to the ledge isn't easy... |
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Fidget | 21 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Really enjoyed this, and am quite chuffed that gets 6a. I didn't quite make it, had to use the side pull to get to the ledge even though I'm not that short, but couldn't find my feet to traverse to the bolt, and dropped off twice before giving up! Will definately be back... | ||
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βeta: Really enjoyed this, and am quite chuffed that gets 6a. I didn't quite make it, had to use the side pull to get to the ledge even though I'm not that short, but couldn't find my feet to traverse to the bolt, and dropped off twice before giving up! Will definately be back... |
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Wilbur | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic. One of the best routes i've done on Portland. tough for 5+ - delicate footwork required at the top as well as a lot of commitment! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic. One of the best routes i've done on Portland. tough for 5+ - delicate footwork required at the top as well as a lot of commitment! |
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Alex More | 18 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Great route, easy start gives way to an intricate finish on the arete, graded right at 5+ though, always holds when you need them, atmospheric positions!!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, easy start gives way to an intricate finish on the arete, graded right at 5+ though, always holds when you need them, atmospheric positions!!! |
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Jim Houghton | 23 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Very hard in the grade, felt harder than many 6a+'s | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very hard in the grade, felt harder than many 6a+'s |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)