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Valerian* 6a

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[Valerian in spring., 3 kb]26m. The line up the buttress left of a steep grassy ramp. It has some superb flowstone on the upper wall. However, the first half of the route has a good deal of loose and dusty rock. Care required. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mick Ward 2002

Photo: Valerian in spring. © barfani chita
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 167 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

clairemathews - 2nd - 26/Jul/14 with Martin Bagshaw

Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Claire Mathews

richy85 - Lead dog - 14/Apr/14 with Paul

E30Adam - TR O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Roberto Isasa, Miles Gillespie

tcn_2002 - Lead - 20/Oct/12

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Kirsten

Mistee - 2nd - 09/Sep/12 with Lewis Wilson, Phil

98%monkey - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12 with Lewis Wilson, Nicki

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/12

Matt77 - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

joshchalke - Lead dnf - 27/May/12

therat - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

tricky near the second-last bolt. Top section is quite pumpy for Fr5+.
pawelx - Lead dnf - 12/May/12

jh123 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Pawel Zdziarski

Grade is correct in difficulty terms but does not tell the whole story. Felt very adventurous and serious. Dirty and dubious rock in first half then spaced bolts as the rock improves and steepens. Stars depend on how much the first half puts you off. I, perversely, quite enjoyed it
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/12 with Paul Evans

Bottom half is a bit dusty and loose, top section could do with a clean. There are some nice moves on the top section and a little pumpy fot 5+! a long extender useful for a bolt half way up to prevent rope drag
catblack - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Andy Barker

Andrew Barker - Lead β - 02/Apr/12 with Cat Black

loose rock to start with, followed by nice moves, then flowstone where the holds thin out and gets a little more challenging. Lowered from second but final bolt leaving a quick draw, only to return next morning to complete the route and retrieve the gear (which was still there)!
Robin Brooke - Lead - Apr/12 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - Lead - Apr/12 with Robin Brooke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Mar/12

Psych - Lead dog - Mar/12

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Nov/11

Danny Crump - Lead - 23/Oct/11 with Sarah Pentelow

Dusty, dirty, chossy start. Block came off in my hand. Nice but challenging flowstone middle. V awkward at the top. Lovely day though.
risby - TR dnf - 16/Oct/11 with Darrell Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

gibsond - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Ris Wright

terrible lower loose dusty section not 5+ poor bolt placement halfway up leads to drag on rope. Upper section nice. But spolied by lower section
scottski - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/11 with A. Baguley

Hidden - Lead - Oct/11

No way is this 5+!Dusty and sort of loose on the bottom then a clay bank before exceent but dusty tufa Has to be 6a at least for the danger value
andybirtwistle - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Ian Birtwistle

tom.ireson - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Paul Ackland

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Miles

kingborris - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11

and got to climb it again to clip the lower off after sand-bagging tosh !! sorry mate.
bigdan050 - TR - 12/Jul/11 with Tosh

one of the most varied routes ive ever done, lost of different climbing, sustained and quite pumped by the top. loved it
bigdan050 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Tosh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11

bottom half is coming off in chunks, but fun. Midsection is muddy. Top section just about makes up for the bottom.
Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/11 with cheese ben

V pumpy for 5+. Terrible bottom section. Top half just makes up for it
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jonathan E

Fell dude to a huge chunk of rock falling out and almost squishing my belayer.. poor quality rock at bottom and serious rope drag at top
Joe Black - Lead dog - 29/Jun/11

TRFrost - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with D. Laithwaite

bottom half, yuck! top half ok
tomdude - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with joe dowsett

fildac - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11

didnt really enjoy this one
Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Soph Nunn

This didn't go too well
gidmord - Lead dnf - 15/May/11 with Tom Horton

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11

Mike Green - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Karolina Klos

KarolinaKlos - Lead dog - 16/Apr/11 with Michael Herrington-Green

KarolinaKlos - Lead β - 16/Apr/11 with Michael Herrington-Green

zdenek strycek - Lead - 16/Apr/11 with Trevedian

Hidden - AltLd dog - 03/Apr/11

Got to the top out, after 1 rest. Couldn't clip the rope to the quickdraw on the topout and fell. Quite long runout between last bolt and topout.
natalio - Lead dog - 03/Apr/11 with Stephen

Jim Gaffney - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with George Swadling

Hidden - Solo - 27/Mar/11

75% ran out of qds
marcb - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Sophie Skellern, Kyle Goslan, Michael Moore

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 09/Jan/11

spooked! not the 5+ experience I'd hoped for after a break
Charlie Evans - Lead dog - 09/Jan/11

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

brian watson - Lead rpt - 09/Jan/11 with anne marie sheppard

roharmon88 - 2011

james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 2011

Hawkscry - 2011

patsaunders - Lead - 2011

Climbed this last year- didn't have the mentioned problems with rope drag or loose rock. I did use a skinny 9.1mm single, and long quickdraws on most of the bolts. It's impossible to see your leader past about 10m. Very enjoyable climb, especially the last section- just wear a helmet and be cautious.
MichaelGallimore - Lead dog - 2011 with MikeR

Ian Bell - Lead dog - 2011

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Nov/10

Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 28/Oct/10

Bottom third of this is seriously dodgy - loose & covered in powder. NB hard for the belayer to see what your doing - needs to stand in the mud to the extreme left of the crag.
hms - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/10 with Jenny

Made it half way to the last bolt before lower off. (6 bolts up?) The flowstone section at the top is the crux, eh?
s.tietz - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/10 with George Nichols

Too cool for school. Really varied rock and good flow, but long and exposed.
George Nichols - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Stephan Tietz

The horror....... look out for the loose block on the first break.
benscarter - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10 with Simon Forman

Bottom section not so nice rock but it improves with height
DrGav - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Dave

tomB - Lead dog - 04/Sep/10 with Juliette

Backed off 2 clips from top. Couldn't hear belayer & she couldn't hear me
Montecore - Lead dnf - Aug/10

Kap - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 10/Jul/10

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/10 with Andy

barfani chita - TR dog - 15/May/10 with Saurus

martin one - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with Eric

A climb of two halves.
eroica64 - TR - 17/Apr/10 with Dave Thompson, Lawrence King

Hard top section for sure, got pumped and hard to clip lower off.
tomsmartacus - Lead dog - 07/Apr/10

IAmAStone - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Tom Ramsden

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Mar/10

Harphead - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Spicerman

LukeyG - Lead dnf - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

danieleaston - Lead - 2010

drysori - Lead - 2010

Big Steve C - Lead - 18/Oct/09 with Sammi

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 30/Sep/09

v. strenuous and under graded at 5+. bolts definately too spaced at top. As last climb of day could not commit to finish last bolt and belay. also loose start and belayer out of view.
mark4344 - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/09 with Andreas

an awesome climb but the bolts are so far spaced that if your not climbing comfotable at 6a-6a+ and take a fall your most definately gonna get smashed up(WATCH OUT FOR MICK WARDS ROUTES) he bolted a fair few routes and gets a bit tight with his bolting (NOT GOOD FOR CLIMBERS WHO ARE PUSHING THERE GRADE)
drewclimber - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with gordon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

RFWilkie - Lead dog - 20/Sep/09

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/09 with margaret

Lallylandslider - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with michael burrows

matthewjames - Lead dog - 06/Sep/09 with Alex Ghee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09

Was v tired by the time did this one and got very pumped. The flow stone is lovely top climb on got holds.
Chris Harding - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Dave Stevenson

Ed Shaw - Lead β - 06/Jun/09 with Nick Evens

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/09

wi11 - Lead RP - 17/May/09 with Chris Gee

tigertim - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Polly Withers

Got massively pumped at end and fell while at lower off bolts with rope pulled in - big fall!!
jonathan watt - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/09

Must remember to carry a camera next time for the brilliant view of climbers on "Pregnant Pause"
andyfeds - Lead dog - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Apr/09

A climb of two halves, the first, dusty, juggy and a bit loose. The second part is all flowstone loveliness. Extend the clip after the chalky bit, after which it's difficult to communicate with your belayer.
jeffsheard - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Sarah Davis

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/09

Horrible. Horrendously dusty, a bit loose and a sandbag at the grade. But strangely fun in a masochistic sort of way. Bolt after the bulge could cause massive rope drag if clipped but not extended.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Curious Yellow

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/09 with Harry Massey

briar4012 - TR dog - 17/Feb/09 with Marti

Jane Weir - Lead - 2009

Thinker01 - 2009

Alex More - Lead - 2009

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 07/Dec/08 with Rich

rd20 - Lead rpt - 16/Nov/08 with Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Oct/08

Hidden - TR O/S - Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/08

Had rest before clipping lower off
leigh - Lead dog - 28/Sep/08 with Ed

jbulger - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Chris Mock

bit chalky at start but ok towards the top...very easy climbing
tscoobydoo - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Matt Drain

FrostyWebb - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Julie

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/08

Ant Mace - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Lloyd Cowdry

Scared so i was. Fell off on top bolt.
nadeem - Lead dnf - Jun/08 with Charlie Patterson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/08

will6459 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Andy Hext

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08

Marq - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Ruth Creamer

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/08

Neil Tucker - Lead - Apr/08 with Andras Pinter

a bit dusty and crumbly
gravity - TR dnf - 09/Feb/08 with Joff

Hidden - Lead - Jan/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam

Jonathan Emett - TR - 21/Dec/07 with topsy turvy

Got to last bolt had to rest to haul up to belay point.
98%monkey - Lead dog - 26/Nov/07 with Katerina

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 17/Nov/07 with Lisa Paling

Loose, dirty and very bad rope drag
PhilR - 11/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

general - Lead dnf - 21/Jul/07 with Rampant, David Morse

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07

Darragh - Apr/07

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Top section is a sting in the tail.
Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/07 with Tom Hindson

Gorgeous sustained flowstone in the top half; bottom half chalky, dusty laybacks.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with JustWicked

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Richard White - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06

Yb lowers off, before steep top section
vet - TR O/S - 19/Aug/06 with Nick

Bry - Lead - Aug/06 with Tom Brittain

rope was always going to be too short, 50m so we rigged a hanging belay and paul got his go.
MontyH - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Paul Milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06

trevor macalonan - Lead dnf - 11/Feb/06 with Tim

lukea - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/05 with Olaf

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/05 with mike doyle

JPGR - Lead - Sep/05 with Andy

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/05 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - Lead dog - 15/Aug/05 with Dom Sellers

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Ash85, Hidden, Hidden, flatcap, fivestar

Voting
Total votes cast 90
hard 6a+0 of 45
6a+0 of 45
easy 6a+0 of 45
hard 6a0 of 45
6a0 of 45
easy 6a31 of 45
hard 5c9 of 45
5c4 of 45
easy 5c0 of 45
hard 5a1 of 45
5a0 of 45
easy 5a0 of 45
3 Stars0 of 45
2 Stars13 of 45
1 Star11 of 45
0 Stars3 of 45
Bag of .....18 of 45
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 167 (0.6%)
Lead135 of 167 (80.8%)
Followed9 of 167 (5.4%)
Toproped12 of 167 (7.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 167 (0.6%)
Unknown9 of 167 (5.4%)

'Climbed'38 of 167 (22.8%)
clean O/S70 of 167 (41.9%)
clean β4 of 167 (2.4%)
clean rpt9 of 167 (5.4%)
clean RP3 of 167 (1.8%)
dogged26 of 167 (15.6%)
dnf17 of 167 (10.2%)