Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A great route; the tufas are steep and juggy, and the climbing is more exposed than your average Portland 6c. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 08/Dec/1995.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , Gwenland , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Work you fucking piece of shit , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rockmonkey1977 | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The very large molar tooth like hold at about 2/3 height sounded very ‘hollow’ (ie detached). The slightly less good stuck on hold behind it seems fine though. Use long Qd’s for the bottom half to avoid drag. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The very large molar tooth like hold at about 2/3 height sounded very ‘hollow’ (ie detached). The slightly less good stuck on hold behind it seems fine though. Use long Qd’s for the bottom half to avoid drag. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Opposites Attract
Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)